Cynic

LC

What it most likely means is the DT is being dropped from production because of emmisions. TBH i thought it was already dead as far as new bikes are concerned.

If the dial lights are going out between main and low beam get your meter out that is classic earth fault. There is an earth somewhere that has gone high resistance and the bike has been coping using dip beam. The dip filament has in all probability failed as it is doing double duty causing your dash lights to go. The dial lights will be fed from the on/off light switch, thats a given for just about every recent yam. So if they are on on main then they are working as far as the switching goes. Best of luck with it, try a headlight bulb for now. Its going to take a bit of patience to find the fault.

Film

You sound like your expecting a can of squirt to fix it? Generally powervalve assembalys fall to bits and rattle about, so are you on about the cable, servo?. If you are refering to the powervalve its self put your hand in your pocket for a set of o rings and de-coke it, if it is coke'd up you better be doing the top end too, and the pipe.

Mechanically its very, very similar to the preceeding bike, only really cosmetic stuff like plastics and possibly some carb differences.

Yep good old fasion'd hamerite, then when (not if) it gets scratched etc its 2 minutes with a touch up rather than ruining the powder coat. And its cheap.

I know what you mean, lets be honest most of the time you are making the theif think 'cor f#ck getting through that lot i'll have this one instead'. Its a bit rough on the other guy but there we are.

Flat cap

i've always used cia they may not be the cheapest (i dont think they are that far out tho) but the one time i had to claim they were fine, quick and simple.

Well, frame stripped and here it is painted, now the suzuki has gone i have permission to carry on. Apparently a v8 rangie and 3 bikes was a bit much. lovely. The engine is now sorted apart from the top end i have managed to get hold of no less than 2 barrels that are on their original bores and good coils/ carb and pretty much a whole motor for 70quid result. I was going to use pattern pistons but i have noticed that there is quite a difference between the OEM pistons and the pattern stuff. it really is a 'get what you pay for situation'. Anyway the motor is in and i've started putting the bike back together properly now. Its not, and was never going to be any more than a mechanical rebuild so cleaning up is the main aim. Rather than pretty. there are plenty of DT's out there in beautifully preserved condition that never get used. mine is in the used and abused camp. The TDR gets a lot of tlc, but that is all original. Here she is at the last pic, i'm putting the forks together now. using the bits from two sets to get a good pair.

Looks like you saved that frame just in time, another winter and it would have had it. Its amazing how many people don't realise that just because the plastic is all shiny the bike is good, it may be beyond help..

No they are dust seals, the main fork seals are below them, if they have perished then the fork seals wont be far behind but if there is no oil on the fork leg, and they oppperate properly it should not be an issue for the mot.

No with the valve closed all the power will be low down, you engine will go mad from tick over to around 6tho and thats it. Have it wide open (you need the exhaust off i believe to be certain) and it will go mad FROM 6000 but you will have very little below that. As a cautionary note when me and my mates were dicking around with these wonderfull powervalve motors when they were new (now i feel old) you had to change the mixture by upping the main jet to around 190 200, and get rid of the restrictors, one in the exhaust, i think the carb slide needed moding, tweak the reed block and do something with the airbox but i can't remember what. It was all in a kit you could by if you produced a full licence. As i said back in the day we used the PV stuff from old 350's and used a couple of choke cables, remember them to control the valve. There were also quite a few of em wrecked by bad bodging so be careful.

Firstly welcome, by manual power valve it means it is one of the earlier modles where the servo system was only supplied to full licence holders as it improved the output of the motor to around 22 hp. What people generally do is move it to a position they prefer, all low power, all top end depends if you like wheelies or speed. As a realistic option leaving it open some will liven the bike up and keep the drivability or retro fit the powervalve controlls. There are folks on here know how. J

The 400 wasn't a fast bike when it was new, the RD would ahnialate it, but you load up with the other half and enough kit for a weekend and for its sins it will still be relatively happy at decent road speeds. Do that on the 125 and you will be lucky to pull away. If you do then take some spare clutch kit with you.

Without wanting to let the Thatcham people off the hook here, i doubt any chain will cope with a big fat bloke and a 5 foot long pair of bolt cutters. Did you notice they used the really fat one for the stronger chains.

The whole poiont of the red bit is that its telling you you will damage the motor if you go further, modern engines have a secondary safeguard in the electronics to shut it down at a safe limit. My TDR shows 12000 on the taco but the red line is at 10 and the engine litterally stops like its hit a brick wall at 10000 rpm. More importantly a big single is a torque monster if you are reving it that hard you are missing the best bit. I've never had a big single but i'll bet Gas will be on here later and give a better idea of how to get the best from it.

Makes sense, just curious thats all. I can fully understand going racing rather than get splatted/nicked on the road.

Couple of questions, why rip a really nice 2yr old R1 apart when you could have flogged that and got yourself a cat C cosmetic write off intead and preped that. Or will it turn back into a one carefull owner bike after 2 seasons?

Its supposed to be 16/43.

Get yourself a kickstart asembally and a good kickstart arm otherwise you will be wasting your time..

Oh don't encourage it, your 350 will be lucky to crack 125 with you flat on the tank,not at all if its a naked one. My tdr will only see it on the dial. But a 125 trailee can do it don't be soft man. 125 GP bikes only get to around 130-135.

Its hasn't been a problem till you saw it, carry on.

[quote name='barwell1992' and that leads me to my question whats the best way to polish mashined wheals down to get rid of the ridges sand paper from like 120grit work my way up to 1500 grit and then use wire wool and metal polish or buy a polishing kit with blocks of polishing wax stuf thats like sand paper ? Jesus man you like doing it the hard way. If you want to polish your rims, pay somebody. Seriously, the profesionals will do rims for 30-40 quid if you rempve the tyre for em. Ok you want to do it yourself. Take the laquer off the wheels with nitromorse or some other NON abrasive paint remover after having the tyres removed, then with a good quality polishing kit set to it. Even small scratches and chips will take a lot of effort to clean them up so for gods sake dont go at it with 120grit or you will be polishing forever. Oh and you will look like a coal miner afterwards. Seriously pay somebody else. One other point, if you are riding all year get yourself a spare set of rims to run on in the shitty months cos bare ally will corrode like mad in salt.