Cynic

If the previous owner rebuilt the carb without a manual he is either lying cos he wanted to keep the maual? Or more likely he gave it a quick wipe and away you go. Much as i don't really feel qualified to disagree with blackhat,especially over 400's having had duff seals on my 175 i would have a check on the carb first. Duff crank seals would make it a real bitch to start and the idle gradually goes up. As you are sat at the lights sometimes. No, much as it could be the seals i'd get the carb properly checked first.

Without wanting to push you for more answers, you say it quits when you use the clutch. As in you are still moving, coasting if you like. And in top the rattle is gone? Could you have just not been traveling fast enough and it was the engine pinking and protesting at the load rather than any mechanical problem in the box? Just an option to consider, especially as pinking does sound like a little pebble shaken in a tin can. Its just with the noise only happening in top when the clutch is engaged makes the box unlikely. If it was a problem in the box it would be there from whichever direction its driven. Its just that the gears on a motorcycle are on 2 common shafts, so any rattles generally affect all the gears as they share the same bearings/shafts. As i said i know the tidlers boxes well enough but i've never played with a FZ, but thats my feeling at the minute.

Don't know the FZ but i know the questions that pop into mind. Does the rattle quit when you use the clutch? Does it stay at a constant frequency? Does it happen at a particular speed? Does it happen at a particular throttle opening? Does it get louder/quieter? Is it a loud mechanical low frequency noise (nearer to klonk than a whine) or the other way? Can you carefully! Irepeat, carefully, replicate it on the stand? The trouble with 'a rattle' is they can have many causes so the more info the better. Bikes do try to tell us whats wrong we just have to listen to it properly.

Market forces my friend, the bean counters have the designers by the b4lls . That wouldn't be so bad but they look to what is hot NOW, not what will be. So everybody gets the same. I once joked with some of my mates that some day soon, when you want a new car it will be a case of what colour, as they will all be made the same. Its coming true. Bikes are going to follow.

Here you go take your pick. http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2322761#2322761 You have to thank Dewpy for this, its pinned in the workshop section.

If you look at it from a different angle mate. This is never going to go away, the new kids on the block will always come with the 'i know best'. I did when i was 17, and every generation before and since. One of these days you will come out with something that your dad said. Thats a moment in time i can tell you. Kind of stalls your brain for a bit. So they come they gob off then they go and buy a car your mum would love cos the insurance will kill em on anything else and wreck that. Next time they think about a bike they will be 40 odd with 2.4 kids and a morgage . Its just that in amongst the i'm faster brigade there are genuine motorcyclists coming of age like yourself and foamy. So needs must. The also rans will make 2 dozen posts and dissapear.

Why is it suddenly not important. The gentle massage of the odd sore point can keep threads going for WEEKS. MaD knows his DT's, ive got one of the old aircooled jobbies and spent long enough round the early lc's DT or otherwise to know what they are good for thats all. Way back, when we were flipping valves and finding out how the 'new' powervalve stuff could be made to work i don't ever recall 90mph DT's. Couple of TZR's got close to a ton but they were really worked over (and didn't last). The ONLY 125 i recall topping a ton was the Mito and that was only just. Full fairing, 25-30hp fully liberated, weigh nothing. So 90 from a DT? Nope, though I'd love to be proved wrong.

I'm with you mad, i want video. As i have said my TDR is similar in all dimentions bar power, LOTS more and much more torque importantly. Honestly a solid ton is all its good for unless you want to be eating pistons, so 90 from DT's. Nope maybe a genuine 80.

MaD Having done it myself far too often , this thread is getting on for 2 years old.

Surely if its happening between first and second its not a false neutral, it IS neutral. You have just got to learn how to ride the bike. A false neutral comes between any gear and when you consider the other extreem is 2 different gears meshing together at the same time and locking the box terminally solid. I can live with the odd one. Just relax and ride, you are concentrating on the gearchange, just forget about it and it will stop being an issue. If it persists you may want to adjust the gear linkage/lever to get a more positive throw

At nearly 15 years old your looking at 5-700 quid tops. That kind of bike is catch 22. Unless its mint, and i mean showroom it could have been anything from a schoolboy crosser to grandads ride to work. Add to that there are literally thousands of em. Yep with T+T 5-700 notes half that without.

gotcha

You said in your first post that you use the YSR for town stuff. It may just need a good clear out, white smoke at high speed is generally the oil burning out of the exhaust when it gets hot enough. My TDR did it to begin with and after a good blast with a mate that got it very hot (25mpg if you know what i mean) it looked like a red arrow for a couple of miles. Been fine since

It was a change over year 87, the rear will be drum and any DT125/75 drum rear wheel will fit. You may or may not have a front disc but you need to fit like for like. So anything from 78 on will go in if its drum possibly with very minor tweaks. I have an entire DT125R front end, good forks (bar the seals) wheel (with a good disc) and yolks, master cyl etc. Only need to change the steering head bearings to fit it. If you are interested make me an offer. I'm not busting any rules as it has been up in the for sale section before, I've got a rear wheel too, (DT175).

Pheew, riding round Japan on a Hog, bet that gets some looks from the natives i understand most of em don't go for the big ride what you like licence. Anyway, welcome. 'slowbike' does that refer to the Harley? , only kidding. It must be odd though. That ysr prob idles at the redline of the harley, potatoe-potatoe-potatoe versus chicken cow meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeein.

Probably could have worded that better my friend. Especially considering your second post is telling the fellow to go to another forum. And not offering anything more constructing. On some forums that will get you barred. There are plenty of DT125 sites out there with plenty of info. That is just one of many. Some of the best are German. There are more than enough DT owners on here to help out.

Do you get any idiot lights, powervalve noise etc. I am asuming you meant BUMP start not jump start.

Sounds like something simple. Possibly a bad connection or broken wire. I'd be looking to the broken wire/ bad connection i think as the lights and horn will be fed from different circuits but they are i believe on the same switchgear and that connector would be where i'd start. (after making sure on the fuses just in case). I have little exp on the leccy starts on the TZR, personally i think its a waste of time on a stroker and in the days of lightweight is god why saddle a bike with all the extra gubbins to make it go on a button.

As far as it matters, classic is regarded as over 15years old. Its the minimum required to exhibit at the summer steam rallies. (gets you into a lot of em for nowt with cheap beer , well used to) 25 would once upon a time would have been classed as vintage but i think thats been changed now. I believe you are looking at the late 50's these days to be classed as vintage. The old brit lads dont like the amount of 30 year old jap stuff that is still running around so they changed the rules . I think both of mine are clasics in your sense. The DT was an icon in its day, the TDR? Well it is still just as left field as it ever was.

Just hope they replace her with someone who can think, not a ditzy thats just window dressing.

I think they go hand in hand. Few years back i fitted a full race system to a suzuki i had. TTS ran it 28times on the dyno to really get it right. I thought it was pretty good straight out of the box, then it was set up properly. Wow big difference. I see it as part of fitting the exhaust. If the headers are worth fitting in respect of improved performance then by definition need carb work (read dyno time) to get right.

Remind me never to play poker with you OG.

Not sure what you mean. A good 12v supply to 85/86 should make the relay energise (click) and cause it to do whatever it is designed to do be that NO, NC etc. 30 and 87 are the relay contacts. They will connect or disconnect depending on what the relay is designed to do as said above. But they will have absoloutly no effect on the 'click'. In essance if the relay don't click every time a solid 12 is applied across 86/87 its not working as it should.

when my eyes fell upon my heat gun. I don't have one, do have an old hair dryer, what sort is yours? Rick Just a cheap and cheerfull from the local bargain basement, Ryobi i think. Use it for getting gudgeon pins into pistons as well. Its surprisingly effective. And you often as not dont need as much heat as you expect.

In the words of that stupid mutt on the adds OHHHHHHHH yes. Only problem being as its a twin it is VITAL that the powervalves are kept in perfect condition and adjusted, any imbalance or leaks and the bonkers power is gone. Its the 250. And its the same system as the pre 98 125. I have seen it mentioned but have absoloutly NO evidence to back it up that the barrels will actually swap.