Cynic

Real easy if you know even a little bit. Drain the oil, you can do it without but if the cluch is burning then the oil will have cr@p in it anyway. Take off the rh crancase cover. Great big round thing is your clutch, undo the 5 bolts in the outer plate, much as a screwdriver is tempting use a spanner as they are VERY soft. As you undo them you will loosen the springs. Dont worry they won't ping off by the time the bolts are loose the springs will be loose too. Take out the clutch pack and make a note of the order of the plates. You will have plain (metal) plates and friction ( have little strips of friction material on them) plates. Check the metal plates if they have blue'd ,as obvious as it sounds their buggerd, and use a sheet of glass to make sure they are dead flat. That means out less than a couple of tho. Check the slots in the basket where the plates run if there is any ridges clean them up with a swiss file to take off any ridges. Note, The new friction plates may need soaking in oil first. Pop it all back together, assembaly is literally the removal in reverse. Dont hammer it for the first couple of miles. Job done, you may get a bit more from the old clutch with some stronger springs possibly, but false economy unless you are selling it on. Specs Friction plate thickness, .1181 in Plain plate thickness ..0472in Plain plate warpage 0 Spring free length 1.2402in Edit: couple of extra points, the metal (plain) plates rarely if ever come with a 'clutch' sometimes its just the friction plates alone. If it were me I'd change the plain plates too as they are often enough the cause of a clutch slipping cos they are not flat anymore. They get hot warp more heat more warp etc. You will have to order the crankcase gasket and the springs too. STD / heavy duty springs?up to you make no real difference on a DT if the clutch is in good nick.

You can't find anyone who can do you a front tire for a 125 drag....... You are joking? Where are you Mars? Google threw this up in half a tic 80/100-18 Tyre

HMMMMM fresh meat, er i mean welcome along.

Its what i did. But it wasnt sorned for that long more like 4/5 years

Well your wrong, it won't overheat. You will comfortably do the trip with no issues. The engine is DESIGNED to be air cooled. Its not a watercooled motor without water. The carburation, bearing design, internal tolerences etc are all set to allow for aircooling. The only time aircooled engines get a bit stroppy is when they are run static for a L_O_N_G time. You have nothing to worry about.

You cannot imagine the shocking amount of light emited by the DT. A dim orange blob around 20feet in front of you is about it. I am not joking when i say that there are times when i've been relieved its a full moon. Cant blame you for wanting to improve things as all lights on bikes are questionable.

Task when are you going to buy a proper Bombadier?, you really want one don't you?

Bad news, you have my sympathies our pets very much become part of the family in every sense. We lost one of our cats in January. Had her from a kitten and she died at 13, its brought a tear to my eye even now as i write this.

Compression?? difficult thing to quantify. The engines will run in a VERY poor condition so unless you have another issue don't dwell on it. As to the wiring if its a 76, then have a look at the mag. Unless its been fitted with a cdi you should have black, green/yellow yellow and a green. The black is the one you need and should run to the ig coil. From the connection at the coil run another line out to a switch, connect the other side of the switch to earth. The switch? Whatever you like really, a lanyard that will shut down the bike if you fall off is a good idea. Or the original bar switch if its still there. It will also have a black wire to it so you know what to look for. Enjoy........

Introduce yourself a little and start a fresh topic all of your own, we don't bite.

Tha don't kno thas born, ya want te try lamp on that thar DT175. Thats proper pants that is........

You dont have to run the tank out to work out the mpg, just fill up to some visual reference in the tank. There may be a crease in the metal, a rust spot or the base of the filler neck. Just as long as its something you can repeat. Then go do X number of miles then re fill at the same pump to the same point. Its what i did with my 250 and got 46mpg from steady mixed riding, pushing it took it down into the low 30's without effort. I recon a trackday would put it well into the 20's, and this is a stock bike. The problem with the reserve light is that no 2 will ever read the same, more to the point a hot bike will read different as fuel is a spirit and will expand readily with temp (which affects its density) so fill on a hot day then refill on a cold and your figures could be all wrong.

Hey look the england fans can relax they have finally got rid of the old coach. A brand new 2010 volvo is picking them up from heathrow.....

Limey 195 K's my 175 could never get near that, i'd be getting nervous at 100. Nice when you get a chance to break from riding to and from work, that dulls the senses a bit. You need a good run every now and then as much as the bike.

One thing i would do much as it will sound silly at first. CHECK THE HOSES ON THE GAGUES i repeat CHECK THE HOSES ON THE GAGUES. I dont mean to be patronising but i know it can affect things badly. (Don't ask) Secondly Set the revs to whatever its ment to be for a carb balance, then get each gague and see what it reads on one particular cyl. And check how it reads whatever it may be on that cyl. Then when you are adjusting the cylinders you know the gagues are singing from the same book. Finally if you have a cyl reading really low dont assume the engine is dead with ignition and all that other faf. Job no1 check the diapram in that carb.

I havent done it on an FZR but my old suzuki had to be balanced at 2500rpm or you were setting it to the idle jet rather than the diaphrams and it made no difference Till you went down the road. If you are having trouble getting the revs to hold i would check to be sure the adjusters are working and that there are actually no leaks/bad plugs or way out valve clearances first before the carb balance, unless you want to tune your engine around a fault.

Are you SURE. I say this as you have to remove 3 bolts to change the oil properly on a TDR250 as the oil is pumped there are a couple of low spots in the box that have their own drains. Or, is it like some of the american farm machinery (potato potato) that have an oil tank that needs draining separately and that is where the rest of the oil is hiding?

I've had a couple of 6v bikes and NONE of them had indicators worth a wnak. The relays do tire with age, the main issue though is the earth path back to the battery and the strength of the battery. You could try running lines to the front and rear of the bike via a decent battery connection making sure its charged fit to pop (and being NEW doesent count still needs charging) and earthing the indicators direct to this. It did the trick with a gp100 i had till a trip down the road removed 2 of em and they never went back.

The bike will have a couple of temp sensors on it for the FI to calculate the amount of fuel for the engine, it may be that in the direct sun one of the sensors is getting out of its comfort zone and the bike wont start as part of its euro cratic tree hugging emmision limits. Or the sensor is a bit squiffy anyway.

Vez this is the MOTORCYCLE forum.......

Dunno, its one of those engines that has its fuel without ANY oil in it, can you imagine?

+1, 2 wheels, changing the carb jet will do nowt bar make things worse. And 3 teeth off the front? crikey, thats huge.

I don't have experience with the YBR but i doubt it has an excess of power. Back in the days of blue smoke and fumes one up on the front could give you around 10% extra in terms of available mph/RPM. If that is to be turned into speed you have to have the power to pull it. You have already commented on the effects of wind with the bigger cog it will be funnily enough around 10% worse. You will get a bit more in each gear too but you could affect the way the gears overlap so you could drop completely out of the available power changing up from 4 th to 5 th. Used to happen to a GP100 i had regular if i didn't cane it in 4th . I am talking worse case and in all likelyhood you will get some gains, don't forget though you may need a longer chain and don't get suckerd into messing with the sprocket at the rear unless you are changing both sprockets for a specific ratio change as the difference is tiny.

Personally i use a scottoiler bottle. Clean it, add some clean fluid sluice the bottle throwing out the old now possibly contaminated fluid. Connect to bleed nipple at caliper, squeese to add fluid keeping an eye on the resivoir. No pumping, no air worries and very little fluid needed. Solid lever at the finish. 20 mins with a cuppa .

Top box and paniers, that would be like bolting a tow bar to a Lotus Exige I've been thinking on this and the best comparison i have come to is the 660 would be a Landrover110, with some expo kit it can go anywhere in the world. The TDR would be a Bowler Tomcat, similar to look at from the same stock but luggage, economy and proper off road mud plugability ability were second to performance .