Cynic

Check the oil and water levels for starters.... If its too hot the fuel will vaporise and the engine cuts out......

Ok the cc stamp has moved. Yes OG is right these engines will never give you the power of the liquid cooled us/european models. Around 16hp is about it from these lumps and i doubt they have much in the way of learner restrictions in your neck of the woods so i would think what its got is what it can give. Looking at the pictures a good sevice, lube and fixing the wiring will be far better than any half arsed tuning bodges.

Its exactly what you think it is, a late model DT175, as to the cc bottom left hand side of the barrel (looking foreward over the bars) should show the cc. If not if it has 4 cyl head studs its a 125 if it has 6 its a 175.

What do you mean 'looks period' it IS period. Da real deal,

I always thought it polite to ask before you 'pop your thread' in any general area. Welcome.....

Wont make a great deal of difference to most of us. Its only the hyper distance lads that drive up to their limits anyway. I do multidrop so even flat out on a 12 hour day i may only drive for 6 maybe 7 of em.

What exactly 'spins'. Motorcycle gearboxes are not designed to opperate staticly, have you rotated the clutch basket whilst trying to change gears, or rotating the output shaft gently while again trying the gears. Do you get any joy if you manually shift the drum by hand ignoring the selctor mech for now? Any chance of some pictures of the selector mech?

No problem, why we do it.

Uh, no reed block, should be something like item 2 in the link below. Got a pic of the old barrel? Dt 175 inlet system

Thats only because the paint keeps melting off of yours dropping out of warp speed.

If you keep it serviced you will not break a DT gearbox, fact! so long as there is oil in it. They are built from granite, must be. The rest of the bike is pretty good too, been making them since the early seventies with 5 basic marques. Mk1 Twin shock till 76ish Mk2 Monoshock till 84ish Mk3 went from aircooled to liquid cooled till 88/89 nineties Mk4 got the powervalve motor. MK5 around 02 there was an overall makeover you have to look to spot it though. There have been changes all the way through but none have been massive just for emmitions etc. As far as performance goes i think the early powervalves were the best but others will know better than me on that. Just check VERY carefully whatever you look at isn't nicked the TWOC's love them.

Must have been Burnes night.

So your saying the reeds fit directly to the barrel then? I don't understand, your bike will have a reed block same as the many number of these engines i messes about with in the dark ages. Engine wont work without it.

Sorry mate were not psychic, there are a few different DT50 models out there from the original to the liquid cooled stuff. Let usknow which one you actually have and the year. At present we are looking at anything from 1978 to now Some pictures as well would be even better.

Why don't you just go down the scrappers and get the throttle body from a small fuel injected car. Its ready made then you just need to work out the fixings. It will be ready to take a cable, fixings the lot.

And how long do you leave the bike vertical to fill the carb properly?. The couple of times where it doesent quite go are when its gasping for gas. Just let the old girl have her fill for a few moments more and the problem 'should' go away. Mine is exactly the same needs a minute or two to fill properly when its proper cold.

Do you turn the fuel off if you leave it for any lenght of time?

Happy days, i don't know about you lot but if they deleted football from the UK totally the only way i might notice is the morning paper having less pages. Good riddance to the embarrasing charade, can we not get all the other football stuff over there too.

Wow jump in at the deep end, ex field bike, that may be a nightmare. Its the very last step before the breakers. Some may say its already there. You can buy restorable runners for a couple of hundred if your not fussy, they will have documents. You need to have a good look at this field bike and consider if it is worth restoring. Do you know if its stolen or not, vital if you are intending to restore it. It would not be the first time someone has done a bike up genuinely only for the police to come and take it away when they try to register it. Please don't think i'm trying to put you off, some field bikes are very tidy and are genuinely good bikes without the hassle of tax,mot etc. But there are a lot that need far too much work to be anything else. Whatever you do there is plenty of support on here, the 175 has quite a following.

Is it completely lost on you that the responses you have recieved from your posts are due entirely to the utter lack of anything resembling , Hello, please, thanks, i'm bob from Utah and made entirely of salt? Try introducing yourself, and taking the time to phrase a decent question. Take more than 10sec to phrase the question and people will take more than 10 sec on the answer.

Cobblers, my DT175 is slower than both of the bikes you have listed. Its just about your mindset. If your worrying about being faster than mate X your head is already wrong. I have had almost exclusively 2strokes up to 350cc all through my riding life, all have been giant killers. Without all the posy crap there are no ego issues and you get on with riding the bike with skill. I have spent more on rider training than performance parts and have been the better man many times. Normally to the embarrasment of powerrangers with their sliders and romper suits generally trying to be Rossi, or Haga or their personal champion. To me the bike is personal, i ride at my pace my way. Sometimes the red mist will drop (eh blackhat) but in the right place its fine. You have chosen that bike for a reason, be financial, personal, style whatever. It reflects you and if you are going to be out in the winter you are far more likely to have a tidy bike by the spring than Mr YZR, you also will lose far less cash when you come to trade up as YBR's will always be worth money, the other will drop in value massively.

If its been de restricted sensibly then its likely its already been done, if not then any difference is tiny. You may notice a slight difference but it affects throttle response more than power. On a bike thats already capable of an indicated 80+ i can't say you'd notice, you probably have a relative lack of lower rpm power anyway needing bigger throttle input thereby negating any benefit.

Its nothing to do with bikes. But! Went out tonite with my youngest for an adventure, hot flask, tow rope, and some basics like a spade, hi viz torch etc to traverse the big hill. Nothing special 99% of the year just a steep hill although its steep in steps for probably half a mile, till it snows. Then only the brave and the stupid take it on. Well take your pick, thats where myself and my youngest were heading basically to give the 4wd system on the rangy a work out to keep it sweet. Well we saw headlights pointing up on one of the steeper parts going nowhere so put pants on the outside and speed to assist. Only to see a focus coming DOWN the hill . It came to a dubious stop, (its a steep hill remember they can slide away on a whim). Inside was a woman and a todler Neither cars had any kit or otherwise, anyway sent some of the people up the hill with an old sheet of mine from the boot to get grit and put the woman and kiddy in the back of my motor till her old man arrived. The thought of her falling arse over biscuit with the kiddy in her arms didnt bear thinking about. Then had to reverse down the hill (nobody could drive up ) to take her and her kiddy to safety of their other car he left at the bottom of the hill. End of the day all cars rescued, Jodie had the time of her life and the driver of the first car tells me he's got snow chains in his garage . All in this could have been tragic as the lady could have been doing upwards of 40 even 50mph by the time she got to the bottom of the hill pointing in god knows what direction, i had sutable kit and a suitable vehicle and wearing proper clothing. What would have happend if...... Please be carefull people, little bit of thought with a little, and i mean very little bit of emergency kit could make the difference to yourself or others.

No its really easy to use heat, takes minutes. One other thing you need is a heat gun, this will heat everything up enough to get things to fit but wont hurt the seals or the cases. Phase one is to put the bearings into the cases, this entails the cases in the oven bearings in the freezer (Overnight ideally) you will be able to fit the seals to the cases as well as while the case is warm they will also be an easy fit. Make sure your ready and have everything laid out as it is going to fit, silly things to watch like the DT175 has a different bearing on each side of the crank but they look very similar as do the seals, be an arse to find that out later. Once the bearings are in the cases leave them be so they can grow into place, done properly beleive me they will never move again. They should just drop in initially mine would rattle till they warmed up. Once done use a heat gun to heat the left hand case and bearing ready for the crank to go in, this again will be an easy sliding fit (bar burnt fingers) but do make sure its seated. Then once your ready with the rh case hear it again with the heat gun so its nice and hot and slide it down the crank. It sounds scary but it really is very easy and causes no stress to the cases at all, Iron hot is the temp your after where your spit slides off fissing slightly.

vaseline on the ceramic (the white bit) of the plug NOT the connection at the top and over the outside of the cap will do at a push, just wont last as long as wd 40 and harder to apply. I used to do it to my land rover if i had to go wading deep water.