Cynic

I'm not a custom fan at all but thats not bad with the wacky paint. If you junked the queen seat/rack combo and had the rear muddy hug the wheel tighter you'd have a winner there. How about a chrome base with the purple doing the marbling on top. Oh crikey i'm commenting on customs OMG nooooooooooooooooooooo

If your not reading the other replies why should we bother with this one, Kirre and myself (after finding and reading a wiring diagram to give you an acurate answer) gave you options for the kill switch, have you tried them? Or will you just wait a while and write another question.

I'd still wait untill I understood it rather than, 'he said do it'. Will he fix it if it eats its self, yep at a cost. Your little 50 is running at or near what its good for. You said you wanted low cost tuning and you have a bike capable of nigh on 65mph, and your grumbling about a bit of low down power. 2 strokes esp little ones dont have low down power, its bogging BECAUSE it will do 60+mph. De tune it to say 45mph flat out and you will have all the bottom end power you will ever want and throttle response that will be razor sharp.

Memories..... Way back when, when i was annoying the motorists on my 50, a DT50m if it matters. I was lucky and someone had done the groundwork stuff like the pipe, it did only do 30 when i got my hands on it... Bad horror film laugh later, after reading everything i could find on little 2 strokes and how to make em go i got to the kind of speeds you are (needed my feet on the pillion pegs for +50 though and i was using 60cc.) I understood that engine totally, from the polishing of the welds inside the pipe and shortening the stinger, to the big (ha suzuki's had a 12) 16mm carb and the subtle tweaks to the ignition to stop detonation. Flowing the intakes all through from the airbox, yes it was faster with it (although it had a few extra holes). Right through the reed block into the cyl. Even the gearing had been worked out carefully as even the rear sprocket to wheel ratio affects things if you get really anal about it, even the drag from the tyres and running them maybe 5 even 10psi over to get more MPH. The rambling point is... Your getting 50+ MPH from a moped and that is a lot, if you don't understand how it makes that power( and dicking with the air screw proves that well enough) you really really can make a right balls of it for the sake of half a mile an hour. Just enjoy what you have and wait for the 125.

Some really usefull info HERE

Simple slide the forks back to where they should be, fit a steering damper or dont take your hands off the bars . Bike geometry is complex but basically the rake and trail are what makes a bike stable or racy and by dropping the forks through the yolks the steering angles have been tightend to sharpen the steering. Trouble is nothing is free, that sharper handling comes at a price, stability. It will make the front just a little skittish and quick to turn. Something i personally like in a bike, i had the forks dropped and an aggressive low profile front tyre as well on my old suzuki, you didn't let both hands off the bars on that unless the road was VERY smooth, turned on a dime though, many a time i had my knee, the pegs, and the lower fairing panel on the ground in corners ( and i don't mean falling off). Might be worth checking your tyres too, if the profile has gone from the rear that will make any shake worse.

Yep, need to use a strong solvent like acetone to remove the fuel and the fuel varnish from inside, both are flammable. The solvent will remove these and although the solvent is just as flammable it evaporates completely with a heat gun for example used to warm up the tank. Then rinse with water and it 'should' be safer to weld.

Man up , run a bridgestone TW301/302 open block road tyre See here and a knobly on the front. I have ridden the ridgeway on these in November weather with others on knobblies and to be honest the difference was only measured in sweat and fuel, i got everywhere they did, after the first experience i did get myself a spare front with a proper mud tyre (knobbly) on it as that was the primary off situation. Rode like that for 7-8 years off road. When your out and the tyre is filling spin the bastard to within an inch of its life and hey whoopsie , grip. Its not as good as a knobbly but as the knobblies don't work well at all on DTMX's its a pretty good compromise. At the end of the day on dirt the only end that really needs grip is the front. The back slips about anyway and a big old rooster tail of dirt is much more fun.

+1 My old mans 750 intruder LOOKS like it only has one carb but that is similar with one for each pot, but different. Bastard to get on and off too.

Here it is, might prefer a ferrari though.

Is that the long term memory stuff again.....

I take it building a new one yourself is not an option then, its not as hard as it might seem. You can easily junk quite a lot of the stock loom and just have the basics. You are pretty much running the MX'er with lights look, i take it the engine is running fine so that bit is pretty much good. From what Vez was saying it sounds like you could make a good one from the 2 with the 25 quid jobbie. Keep your engine bit and use the lighting etc from the other. I'd do it, but then i'm a tight b'stard and 75 notes is worth some head scratching in the garage.

Have you got the old loom, if so go rebuild it. What i did with my DT as all the options were no better than the one i had. I made a pegboard up and laid out the old loom then replicated it on another identical board as there are wires in there that are'nt on the diagrams. Then used the connectors from my old loom as far as multiplugs go, (chopped off with inch or so wiring left and solderd then shrinktubed the connection) and normal solderd crimps for the rest, any manky multiplugs were swapped out for replacements from VWP. All told the loom cost me around 20quid. Worked first time too

Don't rate top boxes myself. Theiving to rags can try and open them to see whats inside, and unless you can park close to work how do you get the contents in from the bike, in another bag so why carry 2. A rucksac is best, oxford ones are pretty good. I have one that comes with a base that fitts securely to the rack and expands to double in size should i want big stuff in it. Otherwise its big enough for sarnies and my flask with a couple of map books and when i get where i'm going it is a perfectly good rucksac in its own right. Its been in constant use for getting on 3 years and apart from being a bit grubby its fine. Just make sure you get something that has reasonably stiff material, not one of the lightweight hiker things as they wear out easily and flap like a dead chicken. Adjustable straps that fit over your biggest wintery coat (not all do) and a waist strap to keep it central and tight on your back are also worthwhile.

Is nobody worried that he drives a Volvo named Princess Fiona.....

Cough. cough... ahem, Thanks blackie you scottish........ No it doesent need topping up that often, mine is running at around a pint 500ml every 250-300miles. Although after the 'incident' i now have a gallon of the stuff in the garage and check/top up from that at the weekend. When the light comes on providing it works( blackie) at around 300 ish miles you will have around a third of a tank left. The scottish 'gentleman' is refering to me running out of 2 stroke after the squires meet due to a duff warning light. 500miles and basically had the "haven't put any oil in in a while" thought as she nipped up. Thankfully she appears to be ok, (touch wood).

If there is one thing that will rip the resale of a bike apart its non std paint. It sets off all sorts of alarm bells. Has it been damaged? Has it been a race bike? Is it a stolen recovery that has been fixed with odd panels hence the paint? Or it could also be that the bloke didn't like the red and wanted some pearl paint. If you like the bike don't fret so long as its straight. Just remember when you come to shift it on those are the questions YOU will be asked .

Kin ell, 90 miles. So that would be a stock DT 175mx then. And ridden far too sensibly Throw a couple of sporty bits on like a pipe and reeds and its more like 60, well its what i get out of mine ridden enthusiasticly. Although it does spend a lot of its time on country roads, and if i'm honest it is running rich. So i could get a bit more but 90 sounds pretty damn good. Thats got to be 80odd to the gallon. Oh and if you do use reserve, fill up asap cos it aint much. 10mile tops. Scary fact for you, the first time i filled the tank on my DT, from bone dry i might add it cost me.... ready...... sitting down........ £1.80........

One thing to remember people, don't blame the networks for a bad signal some of the phones out there are a bit flakey when it comes to reception. Last year on holidy in cornwall my phone dropped out with no signal, my daughters. Same network, same place, worked fine.

I only have 6or so miles to do so i'm not too bad either, the -11's were a bit tough, the old DT doesent have a lot in the way of protection or heated anything. My main reason is two fold, 1 using 6-8 litres of fuel a week is a bonus in my book that cars will never beat. 2 to get to my house i have to go past a secondry school dealing with 1500kids from all over the area, busses and school run dimwits (where does their brain go when they drop off the kids, the places they stop/park) block the streets in all directions and it turns into gridlock. On the DT i save upwards of 15minutes getting home if its bad, normally when its raining .

The biggest decision is..... Museum piece or rideable classic?, everybody knows my opinion on that, bikes are there to be ridden. I have the TDR for high days and holidays, but thats my toy, also one winter would kill it like it did to SO many others. You are in the best position being able to choose. SV for daily grind and this TS as a toy.

I use Virgin, thinking of changing to a network with more experience

Have you noticed it, the bikes and bikers that have been hiding from the winter have started coming out into the daylight again. Had one on thursday, i gave a cheeery wave sat there coverd in months of winter shite and he looked at me with 'Why don't you buy a proper bike' written all over his face, then wobbled off on his 2 yr old R6 with his matching romper suit. Twat. I don't know why but that really spoilt my afternoon. I have noticed it several times now i think about it, i have overtaken a couple of these sunshine warriors on the slow bends into the village ON THE DT FER CRISAKES. I got the nescafe wave the last time, why? Wasn't speeding or dangerous. I can sympathise with keeping the bikes free of winter crud, my TDR won't see tarmac till were clear of the late winter filth but the high and mighty view got up my nose. Thats better

This is why i like old stuff like my dt. Emmision requirements, oh no they dont count. Just it cannot leave a visible puddle underneath it or emit 'excessive smoke' Mind there is noise, oh er no not that onbe either unless of course the bike is reg after march 1981, then its only if the exhaust fitted is in poor condition. Lighting is open to (abuse) interpretation as its crap anyway and even the numberplates have a lot of leway, i have an original metal plate with the old stick on numbers. Was legal when it went on so its 'ok' now. You gotta love old smokers And yes the whitehall wankers have got all their wires crossed, they should be encouraging bikes, christ my DT uses 6-8 litres a week for work, a 3rd what the car does and a lot less than the rangie. I can park no problem and no congestion. I seem to recall we were going to get tax brakes and all sorts once upon a time. Time will tell, i think the cracks are forming already. If that 10p/litre fuel rise kicks in you wont need to go to the middle east to see riots in the streets.

Did it fix the missfiring?