Cynic

There a tenner a go you tight bastard. ALL the bearings and seals can be got from TY Trials for under 100 quid. I repeat thats every seal and bearing all genuine. For under 100 quid

Tell me about it, i think he had it for a couple of months tops as somebody on an rd250 kept on wasting him on the way to work.... That was when he bought the 1971 CB175 which he still has, which will come as no surprise is, if i remember rightly quicker on acceleration and top speed than the 250:lol: progress eh.

Cor, my first trip on a bike was on the back of my old mans CB250 Super Dream, wait for it.... Delux basically it meant it had twin disks and a posh stripe

The easiest way is with a heat gun, turn the case so the bearing will drop onto the bench then heat the back of the casing with the heat gun. Ally expands faster than steel and clunk out they drop easy as you like. No physical force on the cases at all. You can use one to put them in too, again heat the cases with the gun to what they call 'iron hot' ( where spit sizzles) and then take the bearings and drop them in. You don't want the bearings ice cold just ambient. Its the crank you want ice cold as that will then slide easily into said bearings. The seals also go in far easier with the cases hot, then once the whole lot is in position let it cool and all the parts will 'grow' together. Very effective method as not using any force means the bearings are really snug and true. Certainly not going to move.

DON't buy cranks of ebay if you already have one. If it ain't broke etc. Check the main bearings against spec and if all good put it right back, rough rule is sideways play of upto a mm or so is fine but no, as in zero vertical movement. If it is out of spec its cheaper in the long run to have it rebuilt, someone like PJME will rebuild a little crank like the DT for 25quid pluss parts. Main bearings and seals can be done using the bearings in the freezer engine in the oven method (watch out for the wife) the rest of it to quote Mr Haynes is a reverse of the removal process pretty much. Follow the manual and don't rush. What are you refering to when you say "getting them out", if the motor is in bits?

There are hardly enough differences to split them anyway. Unless you replace ALL the electrics on your bike for a specific build speck then things will never go straight on. These bikes were built 30years ago, production of electrical systems on vehicles was hardly state of the art. The cdi was a massive move foreward. You will always have odd plugs and spurious connectors in there, even the new looms will have links and such missing. More disturbingly the original loom has crimps internally, i took those out when i rewired mine. Just work through it patiently the wiring on these old girls is by no means complex.

Oooooooh Steve, i think the word hypocrite is needed here, do you still have the black armband from when Goff got hitched........ Welcome Emma, forgive us for being just a little nuts. We need more ladies on here as to keep us honest.

Must, resist, too, many, double, entendres

Why, its already huge and a flatside, same size as the ones on my tdr easily good for 30hp+

You don't buy close to christmas you buy after at the end of January begining of Feb before the weather brakes, the credit card bill is in and eveybody is sick of being wet and cold. Bad news is that age of bike will most likely be above average mileage or a track addict. Nature of the beast. They are not loved, more whipped like a racehorse. You hope is a loved example that has been treated gently, trouble is that may cause greif because its never stretched its legs. If its not going to be main transport, as R6's rarely are......... Why not look to something with a bit more. How about a TZR250, 130mph and with minor tweaks handling that will embarass most normal R6's especially tired 10year old ones, none of the "couldn't afford an R1 then crap" add looks and cudos in spades (so long as its white and red) AND for 3.5k you can get a proper tiny milage minter and change for track days/leathers etc.

I bought a new headlight from Yambits which has a better patern on the glass with a new bulb, rode mine through plenty of dark without problems. I live out in the boonies and have a 6 mile trip to work, all of which is unlit bar the last half mile on the estate.

Don't ignore the genuine stuff, for my 175 the difference between genuine seals bearings and gaskets and patern ones was a whopping 20 quid. It was genuine all the way. All of 90quid all in.

Lovely job on the rack, not a fan of helmet locks myself after coming back to my bike outside work to find some arsehole had broken an egg into it. I had the best of it though, they had used the one on the bike behind mine as a urinal Never used one since, my helmet stays with me unless i can leave it safe no mater how much of a pain in the arse it is.

Being the voice of common sense here, while you have her down this far how about having at the output shaft bearing and seal by the sprocket. No mater how good you think it is it will have an amount of crud in it that has got past the seal and its the furthest from any lube so if 4th was dry then that bearing will have been too. Feel free to ignore the idea but for what? ten fifteen quid, its a cheap preventative measure, bearing (intended ) in mind its a total strip to get at it if it goes.

Don't want much do you, the words good and cheap are rarely close together when 2 strokes are concerned. E-bay and such and keep your fingers crossed. DT motors are strong but any 2 stroke is doubtfull unless you have built it yourself or had it done by a profesional, and by that i mean someone like stan stephens. Find one thats cheap buy it expecting it to be bolloxed and then re-build it. Its gonna cost a couple of hundred no mater what.

My TDR 250 has 8's in it. With 9's as an option for more spirited riders.

How far do you want to take the word 'same'. There are tiny differences right through the bottom end. To be exactly right the only 'identical' components will be the cases themselves. The gear ratio's electrics etc are all just a tiny bit different, BUT, you can swap a 125 top for a 175 top with no issues. You can swap clusters, you can swap primary drive sets. Side by side there will be many slight differences. But as far as it matters they are the same.

Idea's on the correct jet size, yep lots of idea's. Its a good job you did a thourough intro telling us about your riding experience, what you know about 2 and 4 strokes. Where you are...... Oh you didn't Based on the info to hand, dunno.............

Oh i don't know paul can you imagine how ridiculous a 200 section tyre would actually look on a 650 drag. Be like fitting a ships cannon to a toy car and calling it a tank.

Its the feed from the ig switch to the lighting switch on the left hand bar.

Just before you throw in the towel, have you got some ptfe tape, the stuff plumbers use? Cost pence from any B+Q type place. Put a small amount on the nipple. That will seal the threads so you can foce the fluid through the system. Once its full, whip the nipple out quick, take the tape off and bleed it the normal way to clear out the bit of air that will get in.

Bit like the Outlaws Rock and Blues bash at Derby, the last time i went Foggy could still use his arm. Even then the festival vibes with students and hippies were coming in. Gave the angels battering fodder i suppose as they didn't know how to behave.

Plasticy clicking was most likely the servo gears protesting. Have the pipe off to check everything is where it should be.

Er no actually both of my bikes have a kick start, no battery required

+1 for the full kit. The TDR is worse because its 2 tanks linked together with the oil tank in the middle so making sure you get it all takes patience, half an hour in the oven on low as in as low as it will go (while the wife's out) and a heat gun to keep it hot while you do it.