Cynic

Wonder how many of those 125's they would sell if they put in the bumf. "Its a gutless bugger unless you really wring its neck, even then it will have none of the performance of the older 125's cos its a pokey 125 4 stroke that is lumberd with so much electronic and physical regulation that i'm surprised it goes as quick as it does." The bike isn't slow, in the hands of Bradly or such i would imagine its a very quick bike. I bet it stops and corners far far better than the old stuff. Ahhhh the point, wonderd where i was going. Spend the money you were going to spend on performance(?) parts on yourself. That will make a far bigger difference, and its easily transferable to your next bike . I have done it several times with the BMF, the police (who do some very good rider courses) and plain old instructed track days. As far as the bike goes, just ride it. The more you f with it the less its worth and the plods will tear you apart, don't give them the bullets to do it.

Just so you don't missunderstand....... GENUINE HEAD GASKETS ONLY OR THEY WILL FAIL Anything else is false economy, other gaskets you can take your chances but failure of pattern head gaskets is so likely it makes it not worth the saving.

Welcome, the bike is still taxed (Till 1,1,12) and listed on the DVLA's vehicle enquiry's search so the next place i'd be contacting would be the aircooled RD club. It looks like its still out there. Be prepared though it may not be the bike you had, do you want the memories ruined when you see it shell suit pink with a single sided sw arm and swarbriks. Seriously hope you find it.

Good, were aiming at the right target then, the white pen is prob from a breakers and is most likely (being optimistic) from the fellow that had it previously trying to fix it. Have you had a route round at the connections to the coil, the fact you have a spark however weak means the cdi is probably good, again being dangerously optimistic. We do have a possible second reason for it not starting now though, the cylinders may have a large amount of liquid fuel floating around in there that the motor couldn't burn and snuffed it out. Spin her over with the plugs out to blow the cylinders clear. You may be surprised at the amount that is blown out. When it clears dry out the plugs, run a feeler gague through em to be sure they are clear and have another go at starting just to be sure.

Sounds like you better take the head an barrel off to inspect it.

What i did on my old 600 when i was rallying proper. Piece of 10mm ply 600x300, cover one side with seat sponge using carpet glue then a cheap car mat on the other, drill a couple of (20mm) holes to suit the back of the bike for bungees. Remove the sissy bar from the back of the bike then bungee the board on, then load bike and then with a couple of longer bungee's strap the whole bloody lot down. That would get me, a decent sized holdall, tent and bedroll anywhere i needed. Granted it would cause a weave at 100mph+ but thats hardly a big problem. Not branded or hitec but effective and more importantly cheap.

While your at it line all your controls up, sat in your natural riding position you should be able to rest your fingers on the levers and then have a straight line up to your elbow. Having the levers in that position is more natural and means less effort, more control and in 20 years time your wrists won't hurt. It looks a little odd at first but the extra controll is worth it.

Anything is a modification, how picky the insurer is pretty much follows as to how expensive the premium is. Example, your bike comes on Bridgestone Tyres hypothetically. You tell the dealer you don't like em and have dunlops fitted. There you are insurance get out, deviation from manufacturers spec. Absoloutly everything and i mean everything that is not as per the std manufacturers discription as supplied to the insurance industry for assesment will be deemed a modification. Dealer extras/ luggage/ lighting the lot.

I'd agree in some instances but not this one, plugs should be changed anyhow when you have problems. Charging the battery, the leads and the coil earths are zero cost options and can cover most of the weak spark issues. After that we should have some better/accurate info to dial into the problem.

Start with the cheapest and work back, the first 2 of which during ANY engine problems is change the plugs and charge the battery, next if the caps will unscrew from the leads and if there is some spare length. Unscrew em and chop 10-15mm off and re fit the caps. Lastly check the frame earth for the coils as a shite primary voltage will give a shite secondary (at the plugs). Thats 90% of the weak spark issues after that it gets expensive/complicated. Cdi units, primary coils, pulse coils. Nothing that usually gives trouble. Yam rectifiers can go flaky and cause difficulties.

Can't be the monoshock that has the exhaust behind the panel.

Hmmm, its the backfire that makes me think you maybe have perished rubbers, posibly diaphrams. I would be looking at the carbs first rather than anything else yet. As already said are the plugs wet when you have tried starting the bike, and much as you say they are sparking there is quite a difference between a nice blue spark you can hear and a woosy little orange thing that wouldn't light a gas ring.

Yet......

I'll bet he said more than oooopps.

Honest answer, don't know. It must have one but it could be in the cap (a la TDR) could be part of the tank should be some mention of it in the book? Before getting carried away try the leave the cap loose trick and see if it does it at 80-100 (kph i'm assuming )

Just one small issue, you will put the tuning fork logo the right way up wont you? Its upside down on your mock ups at the moment.

The back wheel already has a healthy splatter of yuck from the chain, gave it a birthday and left it to soak in chain lube while the bike was off the road 4 weeks all told, the excess is removing its self now

Well chuffed with them Paul, the bike rides so much better too. The wheels must have been out of true and flexing. Probably why the spoke failed, begining of the end?

My thinking, leave yours after checking your kettle works at maybe 10 then head across to the coast, run up the eastern side of the country, chips on skeggy sea front, cup of coffee in Brid, that kind of thing and get to the site 6ish for some fried sumthing and a couple of pints. Neither of us will know the roads so speeds will be nice and safe and no boredom etc just discovering a part of the country i havent seen from a motorcycle.

Hmmmm, sounds like fuel starvation rather than an actual carb problem, yes yes i know that sounds stupid but its where i'd start looking. Tank vent being high on the list

Large black one for me please. Er?

Exactly my point they are too bright, more and more cars now have incredibly bright dipped bean, why. Cities are lit like a bloody football pitch anyway. Dip beam should gently light the road, its more to be seen than see anyhow, then we would all be more comfortable riding/driving at night as we would not have to cope with the bright/dark changeover that leaves some (me) temp blinded on some occations.

Don't shoot me for asking this but most motorcycle headlights don't dip left or right it stays central as that will put the beam in the proper place. Are you sure you need it. My TDR headlight is fine straight from Japan (import) as that is central. All the bikes i've had none of them have dipped to one side. Just a thought.

Cough behind! Didn't know we were using straight roads..... TDR's hunt on corners

Your the one who's got to explain the error if some snotty copper fresh out of school gets the hump. I'd say its def worth the hassle as technically the document don't match the vehicle.