Cynic

Think your mixing classic and iconic, lets be honest there are some pretty awful classics out there. And some ropey old enthusiasts . Smythy i wouldn't bother with the factory resto myself. I feel that a genuine bike in good to mint condition will be ruined by a restoration. The patina of age and proper care cannot be replicated. Once you have a few new bits on the rest looks tatty and you will end up spending a proper fortune on new old stock. Ultimately defeating the point as you will have thrown most of the bike away. Just keep it tidy and enjoy it.

Yeah you know what i mean, on several of my old bikes it was easy to put the slide in wrong, really not hard at all if you didn't check that it slid properly on the guide.

Most likely you put the carb slide in backwards...... Now introduce yourself in the proper area of the forum so we know who you are.

It sounds impressive but if i'm honest me and a couple of mates had done several track instruction days at mallory park, (before they put the chicane in ) and going from a sexy just out GSXR600 shod with 180 section track rubber to my old GSXF600 with a 140. I just rode straight off the side of the tyre onto my knee till the pegs, exhaust etc were leaving sparks. Thankfully any modern tyre will grip till the pegs are down. Couldn't, wouldn't, do it now, pegs hit the ground from time to time but thats rare. Took me a while and a few observed rides to truly appreciate how smooth and fast plods are on the old white dinosaus. Rather than ride like Rossi, tried riding like mc plod. Its an eye opener. You are as fast and far far safer, quite odd, but big lean angles are a thing of the past for me, they slow you down .

Why do you think companies com up with different compounds and belt weve to stop squaring. You are upright for longer than your lent over simple. Racers don't square tyres because they are upright for a niny amount of a lap. We unfortunately don't. I have managed to burn out the edge of a few tyres but that was in my sillyer days when you think your indestructable, and spinning the rear out of a bend was 'fun' . No cure for it except buy a tyre that suits your riding, the pilot road2 is a good one for even wear . You will never stop the squaring off, goes with the territory i'm afraid, and as for filing it down.......

I'm in Bugbrooke, just west of Northants. Most people just respond with HUH so i stick with Northampton Was Christian Salvesen, then we got swallowed whole by the big red monster that is Norbert. There is a lot of good advice on here if you get a handle on the search function. Must be over 3 characters so don't search 'SR 125', say. Type 'SR125' with chain adjusting, whatever. Point is use a bit of savey and a little patience to sort through the replies and there is buckets of info. Obviously any questions you have hollar, but it really is worth reading the manual through, esp the maintanance section and letting it sink in. Then just tackle the smaller jobs first like adjusting the chain to build your confidence and your tool kit. A reasonably priced tool kit (cheap tools will cost you a fortune) will get most jobs done. 8,10,11,12,13,14mm spanners an adjustable spanner, a socket set and some allen keys will cover 90% of maintanance. Plus obviously some cans of squirt (wd40/plussgas) too.

Hmmm, not many members out that way, not big posters anyway. A lot of the folks on here are "ooooop narth lad". I'm a bit too far away in Northants. Go past every day in the truck but the boss would object, that overactive plod on his pushbike would prob get the hump too.

Then fill out your profile properly, i'm guessing from your L plate epic your in Cheshire........ Edit, nope wrong member thats georgie....

Er, lots of advice above, but, er, suppose i better say it, um, er.....scottoiler? I fitted a scottoiler for the first time 12 years ago...... On the bikes i've had it fitted to i have wiped the crud off while washing the bike and........... thats it, and i get 20k+ from my bike chains they stretch past their limit rather than wear out. There is a bit of splatter till you get it set right but that shows the chain is oiled AFAIC. Also boring detail, WD40 and parafin can damage rubber and some synthetics, how many times do you see suitable for 'o' ring chains on lube, those little 'o' rings are delicate (ironicly) the wrong lube can either make them swell, or just as bad, crack. You may well be destroying them washing them in parifin and wd. Cheaper chains, funnily enough will use cheaper 'o' rings so again be careful. I also find my most effective tool for maintainance is the weekend wash and polish, you get up close and personal and tend to spot the loose fairing screw, slack adjusters etc when your next to your tools and can adjust at your liesure.

See the mileage, 40K miles on a 50

only one response...... Why?

I like stuff like this, looks really good. Cammo netting may be a bit naff TBH could spoil the overall look you have, it certainly isn't a rat. Blacking up the peg hangers on the other hand would help i think. Whatever you do i like it a lot. Well done..

You don't know the half of it mate, they are a hoot to ride but a complete ba5tard to fiddle with, not to mention every hose clip and gasket that could stick, crack split or otherwise has. Its 22years old and pretty much untouched, the 2 rubber lines that feed the choke circuit have both disintergrated as has one of the oil feeds. Also the routing of the exhausts means that when (not if) the connectors leaked everything inboard on the engine is coverd in oily crud. I'm amazed it ran. I'll be on to fowlers tomorrow for a couple of carb and exhaust gaskets as well as some fuel hose and oil line. In a stupid kind of way i've never been so glad of a blocked jet.

Unfortunately the looms are not always complete and there are wires not shown on drawings for 'detail reasons'. The spurs you talk about are a prime example. I would add the spurs and go from there, or at least some jumper wires to see the effect.

OOOh, welcome to the forum, could be a bit till a response comes up, maybe a day or 2. There are a couple of lads on here that should be able to set you right though. 75cc too much for my knowledge. Sorry.

Hmmm, you would also be a DTMX rider OG Or should that be owner So it would appear correct

Cor i have a blocked pilot jet on the TDR, you would not believe the hassle getting to the carbs. You have to practically take the whole bloody bike to bits, drop the coolant, all the bodywork, tank, exhausts, airbox, what a performance. All for a squirt of carb cleaner, at least i can get in there and clean them up a bit. Might replace the fuel/oil pipe as well. I've been spoilt by the DT, losen 2 screws whip the throttle slide out and rotate the carb, remove float bowl. If your changing the jet its even less as there is a plug in the float bowl that makes it even quicker.

Yep thats the puppy up under the tank. Be carefull though that yellow wire isn't the one that goes to the regulator, its from the mag and runs to the ig/lighting switch. There is a return from the ig/lighting sw that runs to the regulator.

First thing springs to mind is chain tension, ie too tight, esp with the repetitive nature of the noise. The tight spot passing over the new front sprocket esp if the chain has some wear in it.

Like the idea but your bike does comfortably more to the gallon than mine does to a tankfull. Best of luck to you though, love the spirit.

DT diagram PS introduce yourself double quick or the waterfall sandwiches will get you........ (if you don't do an intro you WILL understand)

I voted blue but to be really honest i'd be happy with any of em.

Legally your spedometer is not allowed to under read, so to cover the innacuracies of manufacturing tolerance, tyre wear yadda yadda. The manufacturers are allowed to over read by as much as 10%. A byproduct of this is, getting the spedo to overread as much as they can the manufacturers actually get you out of warranty etc 10%quicker. nice touch. Also optimistic instruments make the vehicles seem faster (and more economical) than they really are. That 10% will show as 10%more distance for your fuel. Your 78MPH is probably at best 70. My tdr when its showing 100mph it is actually showing 86 on the sat nav and flat stick fast as she'll go m;lud is 104@ 9600ish rpm on the sat nav. Officially its 110 or therabouts so i'm happy with that. Spedo shows over 120mph though.

Nah hammer it, although with peak torque at 6500 and peak power at 7500 you may actually be quicker if you changed at around 8500rpm rather than screwing every rpm out of 3rd.

You normally have bigger problems with water cooled bikes, if an aircooled bike overheats then it normally overheats the carbs too and the whole lot shuts down till the temperature drops. That is in the extreem, why not ask any of the experts when they last actually experienced first hand an aircooled m/c engine overheat, 99% of the time it will be owner abuse, or neglect. The aircooled bike has no water pumps to fail, no seals,hoses,rads. When they are in traffic they all suffer, not all bikes have cooling fans, my TDR certanly doesent so that is at a dissadvantage due to the engine not being able to shed enough heat on its own. A good aircooled engine should idle indefinately. There are 2 benefits to the cooling system, 1 closer engineering tolerances, the aircooled motors have more expansion built in to allow for the heat generated. The poroblem there is that means bearings are not as tight, pistons, rings etc are not as snug and hot spots cannot be so easily controlled (like Suzuki deliberately cooling the bottom of the exhaust port to prevent detonation on the RG) so the aircooled engine will generate less power as a result. 2 Noise, the water jacket around an engine keeps it quiet. Other than those main benefits, realisticly water cooling just adds weight and complexity. There are fringe benefits like carb heating but the main point is air cooled, water cooled makes no odds. Maintanance and riding the bike within its mechanical limits (unless its a Z250) kills far more motorcycles ( ask any teenager).