Cynic

If your going to take the test then i'd be going DAS. A friend of mine is a driving instructor and its all structured now, lesson one is this, lesson 2 that etc. They may not let you do 'one or two lessons'. The real question is which is the realisticly cheaper option, i think i ride pretty good, but that is riding on the road not getting my licence. To get my HGV i had to have medicals, class 2 test ( or whatever its called now) then a class one test and each time i had to unlearn the practices that i did on the road to get my test. I was used to an eaton twin split box for example, ( ask your dad if your under 30) Also learning the set pieces of the test. Not wanting to put your riding down but getting your test done will envolve set pieces and manouvers that you just don't do in the real world. Your neck will ache from the mirror checks (i'm not joking) too.

Right then baring a blocked tank vent, were done with the fuel system then. Swapping in a set of good carbs has put paid to that tac. Lets talk ignition, plugs changed i'm guessing. Have you checked for a spark when she's cut out? Your mate wouldn't have an ig coil handy too by any chance.

some yams have a little screen filter in the carb fuel inlet. Second, sometimes rubber can flake inside the fuel pipe and act like non return valves restricting flow Are the float chamber vents clear One last one for you, bit naughty but has worked for me in the past. Give the float heights a tweak, not much just enough to lift the level in the carb by maybe 1mm and see what happens. If it works your floats are losing boyancy.

If you have had a 4.0l then you know what your getting. I have had both the 4 and the 4.6 and unless you look at the boot badge you won't tell from driving it.

I wonder if i could have sneaked the 460 from my unit at work, prob have to change a few bits to get it in, second thoughts its a straight 6 turbo so nah. Foamy might want it in his bike though.....

The only negative is that all these hyper milage cars are supemini's. I tow a 27ft caravan and there aren't many options for change. Add into that the drugery of driving a diesel instead of a V8(i'm with clarkson on this) and that leaves me stuck with going on holiday in a 4.6litre V8 Range Rover , someone has to do it....

Can't they nick you for tax fraud, well tax evasion, for the chip fat thing?

Er, nayruf? my TDR 250 is only 35quid, same as my 175, 151cc to 400 ish cc band.

Don't sound like a bad idea, try looking for the switchgear of a bike of similar age and cc for options. Seeing as Yamaha are incredibly lazy at times i would expect most all the yam 125 to share the same LH switchgear bar wiring oddities. Bet there are a lot more TZR, SR 125 etc switchgear about.

I'm tr-yi-ng n-ot to to, to bbbwaahhhhahahahahahahahahahah Wot a load of coblers. Leave your money in your pocket. I can see the logic, the FAR is pretty critical to engine performance but then so is everything else. 10% gain, on your 'legal 125' whats that 1 hp, piss poor return for 100quid outlay. You will get more back keeping your tyres good and the chain adjusted properly and in good nick. This is one of those things that on a hyperbike tuned to utter perfection the 10% increace is 6 maybe 7 hp. I spent nigh on 2 grand tuning my old 600 that may have had a small benefit if it was fuel injected.

Just google 'performance reeds for DT125', your computer will nearly die through overload from the results. And ignore the roumer merchants, the reeds that fit your bike are the reeds you want. If they made them smaller on later bikes, how does that affect yours? From personal experience making sure your tyres are at pressure and oil and filters are maintained makes a far bigger difference TBH unless your talking really high tune levels. Don't bother with the 2 stage things either its a gimmic.

Someone wearing a Burkha in Licester, who'd av thought? Anywhere near little india (607 between the inner and outer ring) by any chance?

no loss then eh

I do believe he's taking the piss Kev. This was a post about his rd not clearing above 8k and smoking a lot on the left pot. But as i keep getting shot for the intro comments and i wasn't sure what his issue may be i left it for YPVStone or yourself. Appears he couldn't wait.

Not an expert on the waterpumpers but have an interest. As far as i know it runs thus... 82/83 The lc breaks ground and has the engine but shares a lot of parts like rear suspention wheels etc with the old mx 88 gets mono cross rear susp and a front disk with better forks and looks a lot like like the current DTR's 93ish gets the PV and a rear disc 98 gets supplied with the pv gubbins powerd up, 2003 becomes the DTR proper 2008 gone........ Detail tweaks allthrough but thats a rough line. Vez or OGOAB will have a more accurate lineage i think.

Modern tyres are sized using something called a P metric system, don't fully understand the title, anyways. Tyres are sized thus 100/80/18 A Width of the tread area in mm. B Pecentage of A as a representation of the height of the tyre. ie 100 divided by 80 in this instance C Wheel diameter in inches The oldfashioned sizes, being 2.75 18 for example. This will be (a bad halfbreed of imperial and metric not withstanding) a two and three quarter inch wide tyre for an 18 inch rim. All the older tyre sizes are presumed to be 80% of the width for height. Hence only 2 numbers rather than 3. Metric and imperial tyre sizes don't tally exactly but so you get the closest match within the limits of imperial sizes. To confuse things further modern tyres can fit different rim widths, before i changed the rear wheel on my old suzuki to a bigger rim width i had a 150 tyre that would fit a 140 rim, so it wasn't pinched and worked properly. Well that lot is my understanding, if i'm wrong i'm sure it will get shot to hell soon enough.HIH

Front 80/90 2.50/2.75 90/90 2.75/3.00 100/90 3.25/3.50 110/90 3.75/4.00 120/90 4.25/4.50 130/90 5.00/5.10 Rear 110/90 3.75/4.25 120/80 4.50/4.75 120/90 4.50/4.75 130/90 5.00/5.10 140/90 5.50/6.00 150/80 6.00/6.25 150/90 6.00/6.25 Here you go.....

Don't get dragged down the size route, off road its irrelivant. Nothing to go with contact area. A lot more to do with the block pattern and spacings. Will it self clean, have you the horsepower to spin it up. Just fit tyres the right size. And the biggest issue mud. It will stop you rapidly if you have minimum clearance for the tyre, i used some on my DT that still left me with a good inch of clearance and got stuck on a climb because the mud jammed up the rear wheel. Your system is better as you haven't the sidebraces to help trap the 'mud'(animals use them trails too). I rode the ridgeway on std bridgestone trailwings more than once, in the company of full MX shod enduro bikes. They were all amazed at where the little DT would go, in the end i just had a knobbly on the front and stayed with the bridgestone on the rear, (losing the fron hurts more) after trying a couple of different options, i found being able to spin the bo77ocks out of the rear far more usefull esp on climbs. Nice big fantail of mud and sh1te

Thought about one of these myself. Rode one and just wasn't, hmmm, can't really give it a word. Just didn't do it for me. Liked the riding position, can't fault the bike just? Dunno... Think i like more zip than thump. Looking good though Paul, can't help asking. Is Darren's lifted? or is yours low at the back?

Novel, kind of an intro and a question all rolled up together. You don't mention if the bike you have is the twinshock or the later mx (monoshock) bike. The engines are inernally identical, just different covers. The carb, exhaust, and reedblock are diffent although the reeds are the same. The m (lower case) or twin shock if you like was sold in europe in 60cc unrestricted form and went like sh1t off a stick. nigh on 50mph. The twinshock on the other hand wasn't , thats all you got 50cc and your 3hp). The m was just sleeved down for the UK. Many young enterprising souls got them back to 60cc, myself included and generally got them to go very nicely indeed. Therefore the m had a much bigger carb and inlet tract to allow for the 60cc. The plus point is all the internals will swap so any dt50 (aircooled parts) will be fine. There are no end on ebay. Give these fellows a call TY trials Clicky, they are uk based but they ship worldwide i understand and are very helpfull.especially as the TY50 engine shares many components.

more like why people like the smell, rotten fruit=alcohol

That is a blessing and a curse in equal measure from both viewpoints, i think. One definite simbiant, the exhausts rot like old fruit and your never really sure just how long its going to last....

nearer 300 for a TDR250

Not if you buy genuine stuff from NON franchised suppliers like TYtrials. Its about 15% more for gaskets and bearings that fit first time and last. ANY RD250/350 TZR/TDR owner will regale you with water issues from waterpump seals and headgaskets that are non genuine and last 2 mins, in many cases doing for the motor if they fail at speed.

Handy toy that, clears the pub bull as well with top speeds.