Cynic

Carb specs dt175 E, main 140 needle 4j13 3rd groove from top needle jet 0-2 pilot jet 22.5 pilot air screw 1and1/4 turns out starter jet 20 float height 21 idle speed 13-1400rpm As your the wrong side of the atlantic you may have a preset pilot jet screw. Not sure as to the effects of altitude on the DT's carberation. In my part of the world the only way i'll reach 5000' is in a plane.

Take it steady with no WOT and it will do till the weekend. My exhaust has busted to but its got another 3 days of getting me to work so its got to wait. The exhaust leak will be the gasket they are terrible for it. Easy enough to fix though. It dribbles because some of thr fuel mix gets blown into the exhaust and then back into the motor. Its how a 2 stroke works. The drip is unburnt fuel and oil due to air being pulled in instead of the fuel mix.

What about these. Item number 261100022133 sorry i cant guve you a link but i'm on my phone. Not bad for 20 notes........ Here's the link, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261100022133?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D261100022133%26_rdc%3D1

Oil from the powervalve means the seals and bushes need replacing. It will make it stiff to opperate too stressing the pv motor. A potentially expensive issue which you can avoid. Also oil coming from there means in its most basic form an exhaust leak which can kill a 2 stroke as surely as forgetting the oil.

That would be my choice.

Should really be done weekly if its open to the elements. Different seasons make no difference dust in summer, water and salt in winter. I would give it a good lube and check it carefully before looking elsewhere as the bikes are pretty bomb proof otherwise.

Without wanting to state the obvious you have checked the cables are free. Different models have different PV opperation. They all run through a cleaning procedure that has the motor rotate fully through its opperation range. The pv changes the exhaust resonance so the engine stays "on the pipe" better. It doesent meen its always wide open. It just keeps the optimum port shape for, in the case of a race bike ultimate power. Or for the DT, torque and control. There is a more than just a motor in the motor, er you know what i mean. Its called a stepper motor as it tells the controller its position. If this signal is confused it may well be right out of control. Diagnosis? Could be the motor, could be the cdi or pv controller (it is separate units on some models) sticky cables, even the powervalve its self sticking. Any are possible.

Define couple of times on that chain lube. If you really mean one or two times then even money its the chain. My tdr chain is knackered and that does the same. Do you get highfrequency vibes through the pegs that make your toes numb.

The bike should be fine with the valve static. You may have to fiddle a little to get the right balance of power and rpm. The bike will be different and you will be down on power a little. Bit of saddle time will sort that. As to securing it if the motor is dead anyway just turn the motor pully by hand, after dissconnecting it. (Just in case it starts erraticly.) To a spot that works. The 2 holes are for setting the cables up. Where that leaves the valve i dont know. There are people on here that do though so your test is safe. So now the panic is over say hi properly in the new members area.

That powervalve is everything. That really needs fixing first. Can cause all sorts of odd stuff.

A surprising amont of times its just a case of swapping the stems over in the bottom yolk. If anything its the rear that is the more difficult.

First stop for me would be a 900 divvy. Or a thundercat. Thunderace R6 R1 etc would overtyre the bike. Anything USD will be complicated and will ruin your turning circle. Looks the part mind. You will want to buget for a clever bloke in a shed to correct the springs for you though.

You might want to start over with a hello in the new members area. Very few first post questions as direct as yours get a reply. A quick introduction will make all the difference.

Any good engineering company will be able to fix the head. Eithe helicoil or welding the hole and then re drilling and tapping. It certainly isnt junk.

Thats got nowt to do woth the 250. My old 50 had pillion pegs. Thats not to say the 250 wont fit but you need to check carefully.

That really does sound smooth. Vids normally make aircooled stuff sound like a bucket of marbles falling down the stairs. Is all the perfomance from just the u bend being junked. I knew a bloke who draged a 400 and his exhausts stuck straight out from the ports for a good 4 or 5 inches before they turned. Makes quite a difference. How is it on the road.

I would have said 6000 was enough to knaker a sprocket readily enough. Esp with the muppets that think o ring chains dont need much lube. The bearing playing dead at 6k is dissapointing though. Have to say i adjust my chain initially by pulling the susp down to full comp with a strap and setting it just slightly off tight. Then i let the strap off and use that distance as my guide. Relying on the middle of the road dealer settings can be bad landing hard from a road crest or off road jump. Esp if you are packing some spare. I got 22000 miles out of the last chain and sprocker set (regina) that i bought new and have yet to damage gearbox or carrier bearings.

Calm down there he cant ride anything liquid cooled they have way too much poke. I mean old skool cool the aircooled stuff. Even dare i say it the old brit iron. Motorcycling is being an individual. Being the one to follow their own path as best they can. Not mass market annonymity. All the fasion police are going old skool. Crist my daughter wants a satchel for school ferchrisakes. A kin sachel. I got lumbered with those things when i was at school. Ugggh.

Hardly a wrist slap. Glad i did it now though as intro's go its a belter. Welcome to the forum.

Motorcycle oil always gets dirty because of the clutch. I only asked on the 1.8 because i have heard a few imaginative ways of trying it but only 2 work that i know of. I pull thr head clean the piston then mount a bar on the head studs set at tdc. Then i set the ig with 1.8gap using feeler gagues. Totally accurate no errors to mess things up. A good quality dial gague will also do it with the proper adapter. Its probably the one thing that dt's do need to be spot on the ig setting.

GO CLASSIC An rd250. Even a 350 may be under the limits for new pilots. Classic cool plenty of poke and good insurance. Nicely avoiding a lot of modern eu crap too. I have a 125 top end ready for the dt when my daughter is wanting a bike, for that very reason.

Firstly the rattle at 3 to 4 k is the bike protesting at the indignity of rpm that low. On a modern 600 there is very little mass in the motor. They need rpm to run smoothly unlike car engies that have s big flywheel.(relatively speaking) You prob need 3k just to move off. How would you car behave at 1000rpm. Remember she revs to 13k. Riding at 6k and up will be far more engine freindly. The sticky spots are curious. It sounds like a couple of possibles. 1 a cheap chain 2 a non o ring chain lube has been ( even once is enough )used causing the o rings to swell 3 chain adjusted badly so it is too tight It may well be a little of all 3. Was it a yamaha dealer. It will help a lot if you pop into the new members and say high where you are etc. A lot of the members will hold off replying to a first post question.

Er. I have another link for you from Australia saying that your engine is an Australian market only dt400c. Make of it as you please... http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php?page=yamaha_id

Welcome. Only exp of a xs750 was that it vibrates like a wacker plate. Lol Plenty of xs people on here so your in good company.

Where have you been mate. A small shed would do. Welcome by the way.