Cynic

Dont know if it will empty it fully but whatever it drops to filled with fresh gas will make it flammable enough to run ok. You will need to drain the rubbish from the carbs.

You have swapped out the old gas. Modern stuff only lasts a couple of months these days.

Dont forget there is a part of the cycle where gas goes the other way. Although breifly that step may be there to smooth the flow back into the engine.

Ooooh juicy comments. For me? Go for it shambles, motorcycles are about the individual. Hell i chopped an original 1961 landrover about to make a comp car. Fitted a load of shit people told me wouldnt fit. Like range rover axles to leaf springs, auto box, RR power steering. Cost me thousands, had several years of sillyness before the kids turned up and i ran out of cash. Sold as spares for 700quid. Would i do it again..... Fucking right i would. Same on my 350 the 175. Most of my cars. Its not like its the last rxs on the planet, lets face it. Much as people argue if your going for a custom its far better to start with a good donor. Hell why stop with the body. Liquid cooled 200 motor would be fun. Might want a disk on the front though. Enjoy what you got God knows if you will get another go.

First off its good form to post an intro. Second. Your complaining that a 90mph 125 isnt good enough.......struth.

Now here is a perfect example of irony With a proper introduction everybody would know which bike you needed the settings for. Your economy on words has left you hanging. Flesh out the intro and you should get the info you need..

Could you give an example of your issue. Looks to me that you were included in any thread you joined. I expected to see some sort of problem. An insult maybe, but there is nothing, just bike talk. Why leave with an insulting post. Its like a child flicking the v's as the car pulls off.

Lifted this from Direct.gov.... After passing the standard motorcycle practical test, you will be restricted for two years to riding a bike of up to 25 kw and a power/weight ratio not exceeding 0.16 kw/kg. After this you may ride any size of bike. 25kw is 33hp, but that power to weight is almost what the drag makes anyway before its 'restricted'. It makes me wonder if they really get restricted. Who'd know.

Make sure its etanol resistant, the cheaper ones turn to sludge and then you have 2 problems....

I think its daft having to have a drag restricted. Another 10kg and it would be under the power to weight ratio anyway. The law says 0.165 ish hp/kg. The drag is just 0.17. Got to wonder if somebody isnt taking the pi55 somewhere.

All the yam 2 strokes i have had use a generic black rubber bung. My old dt50 the 175 and my tdr. Measure the opening and i'll compare it to mine. Er! oil bottles of course..........

Nip into london across westminster bridge. Maybe use a river taxi. Looking for a big posh stone place under a clock. Place full off over privelaged tosspots doing a far better job of knackering the country than nutters in the desert.

Using your electrical toys to up the voltage won't help you. If you follow general electrical laws then doubling the source voltage will halve the available power. Starting with 24 and chopping it down would give you 8 times the power at 6. You need to swap out the source coil to give a decent supply behind the voltage. As said by many," its not the volts that kill you." thats all you will get amping up the voltage.

Post a picture of the wheel/fork assy....

Oh wow. I'm hardcore.

I will have to do the same. Sold a van, cracking little thing. Mint nick went at best offer for 1100quid. Invoice sent wed. Nothing yet but in his message he was in a hurry. Cheap arse car hawkers from brum no doubt. Want to turn up suck their teeth and offer less. Then get upset when you tell them to sod off. Looks like i will be relisting soon.

There used to be a bikini fairing and bellypan combo for it. I think the rd125 stuff would fit pretty easily too. Maybe the tzr125. With the right paint some 3 spokes and a single seat that could be fun. Tbh i think the little rxs is a pretty ok bike anyway. Certainly compared to the suzuki gp100. As to the spark thingy. If it was wort fitting fo you not think they would be on all the top 1000cc stuff. Its junk. A gimmick at best. I have heard the idea before. Create a more complete burn with longer spark duration.

Ah. Now we get the telling info. Replace the vac line. When they split they slow the fuel flow and spoil the idle. Due to the air leak. Its ok at higher rpm because the vacume has increaced enough to either seal the gap or make up the losses.

Right now your in the right place, Welcome to the forum, can't answer your question as i have never got my hands on the later tzr125s so havent a scooby.

had 2 today the second is probably a little upset having no choice but to take the stoke exit. The fact he was programming his sat nav, getting the address from someone on the phone (that is at his ear). Seemed to be unimportant to him. He had the choice of intimate terms with 44tonnes of fully laden artic or take the lane he drifted into. Twat.

Personally i think the only way to de restrict them is junk the cyl completely and use the left side of a tzr250 motor. I understand (DONT BLAME ME IF YOU DONT CHECK AND IT DONT)it fits the crank induction bikes. The transfers and main ports are huge. Use some of the wiring and the cdi and there should be good power. Its what i would be looking into. When they built the old bikes they put restrictors in to save money so they could use the same bike across europe. With modern distribution and msrket demands that is redundant now. I think its easier to just make it make 12hp. Cad design would allow you to change the ports to give 12hp easy enough.

A car battery minimum charge state is around 85% before terminal damage is done. M/C batteries are even worse as they have far less spare capacity. If it is too weak to start the bike it is nearer 50 maybe less and every time you hit the button to start it your making it worse. The strange behaviour may be a loose terminal somewhere or possibly an inernal connection. Had that on an old van stuffed me for a couple of weeks. One day fine. Then not starting or cutting out. Drove me nuts. I'm with airhead and DDT on this one. That battery is toast.

Normall etiquette is to post an introduction in the new members area first. First post questions generally get a poor response....

Its no idle jets stocking. Dont take the bike there for work...... In the carb you have 4 systems that work to put fuel into the engine. 1 the choke or enrichment circuit. This richens the mixture in the engine. Several ways. Some block the carb somehow to increace the draw. Some just squirt more fuel in. 2 the idle circuit. These are really small jets that give the squirt of fuel that is just right for the bike to run on a closed throttle. 3 the jet needle. This lives within something called an emulsion tube an does most of the work. Unsurprisingly its a calibrated needle that restricts the flow from the main jet to the level the engine requires. 4 the main jet. This is for those flat out times when you have wound it back to the stops. Right that is a carb in basic terms. I have left float heights out as they will confuse things. What you probably have is one of the pilot jets blocked. Then one cyl will be dragging the whole motor down. No easy way to tell which one bar pulling and checking all 4.

Welcome....