Cynic

Yep parts bin time. Dt/At/Ty/Ct parts are so interchangeable they did quite literally use what they had at the time. Then stamped the number. Get some weird combos.

This has come up before. There was some sort of parts bin poaching going on with the 400's. You can be pretty certain its an MX400. I will see if i can find the links to the site that had the numbers. Do you know where it was imported from?

Its an old question that turns up every so often. In truth the IT series is closer to dts but its still a long way from a yz. Service intervals and piston life are measured in hours. A modern yz is kicking 40 odd totally uncompromising psychotic horses. The only real link is the cc and the name on the cases.

I quite enjoy it tbh. There is a big part of me that really wants to fuck the establishment. Motorcycles are one of the best ways. It is a definite club too and once ypur in ypur in for life. Some folks wont have had a bike for years due to the usual cash drains. But those folk will still talk bike bollocks over a beer for hours. When i went to the isle of man no end of people at work thought i was nuts. "you could get killed " being a favourite. Is dieing fulfilling one of your life ambitions a bad thing. I went to the island and had a week i will never forget. They just sat there whining. Do your thing. They can be scared of the front door. Wont stop me although using tje tdr for the last couple of weeks has given me a couple of extra grey hairs.....

With the ig on you will be suppying power around the bike. Energising ig coils and such. It doesent sound to drastic to be honest. 3A is not a lot on a 12v system. My headlight will take approaching twice that alone.

Tommy gets the prize. Dont know what that engine numbers from as by my records that should be a 125f not an e. The clutch mech is the same as a ty125/ 175. Which the f shouldnt have???? You can adjust the height of the pad opperating the clutch rod by adjusting the shaft. Entirely pointless and prolly why it got deleted. The ONLY way that shaft will come out is to rotate it back and forth as much as possible and apply penetrating oil. As the shaft being siezed will prevent the screw coming out. Oopsee mr yamaha. Heat wont help as there is too much case to heat. It cannot be stuck in a bearing as there arent any its metal on metal. It may however if its been left unloved in salty air have corroded electrolytically as slly and steel are not good bedfellows. Try to get the clutch arm turning is job no 1. Cos till it does it aint coming out.

Good to know mate. Sometimes does you good to go quiet for a while and watch as a guest. Can get obsessive.

Pop a proper intro up first. First post questions rarely get much of a response.

Its why i do most everything i can myself. Most of the time im dissapointed otherwise.

The whole world is in a rush these days. As already said ride the thing. Every bike is different and yours sounds ok. My tdr wont take nutral easy either. If i dont catch it before the wheels stop turming you need to switch it off or you wasting your time. Just get out and get some miles down.

Dont know. Hopefully he is just having a break. Little voice in the back of my mind wonders if he may be on the suzuki or ts forums. But hey im cynical eh.....

Yes the actual engine number. Its the locknut thats baffling me here. What you 'should' have is a panhead screw that screws down tight on the case and a machined end that locates in a corresponding grove on the clutch arm. The locknut should not have been there and that is altogether not what the locking screw looks like. With the engine number we can find a proper drawing for that gearbox. The ty engine looks very similar with the barrelnoff but has a compleltely different gear shaft mech. Same as some US models have a blend of ty and dt methods. The engine number. Even just the first half if your concerned about security/privacy will nail it.

Can you post the engijne number then we can better help.

Good man when you can get your helmet on backwards and ride undewater you will have it sorted.....

You may never have had it lock but it will if its working ok. Rear brake upgrades are cosmetic. If your relying on rear brake power you have a flaw in your riding style

Waste of time. Rear brake does 25 per cent of the stopping and the ybr drum will hapily lock the rear wheel.

Ok. With the top clamps on the forks loose and the stem nut loose. Then with the front wheel clear of the ground tighten the nut (uses a c spanner normally) untill you can feel no movement front to back pulling the bottom of the forks. If its about right the bars should move smothly left to right with no stiff areas. Tighten everything back up and check its all still smooth.

Somebody else blaming the bike for a human shortfall. I bet you could have bought a manulal and tools. Fixed it yourself with genuine parts and stlii spent far less. You can strip a dt motor to nothing with a minimal toolkit. Save a flywheel puller you dont need much. As to reliability the dt is right up there. 14k is perfectly possible. As airhead said the pattern gaskets are utter rubish. Same for a lot of piston kits too. Your beef is with the 'mechanic'.

If its that close stay off the dirt. I tried some mud tyres on mine that just cleared and i just kept getting stopped by the mud jamming stuff up. I ended up with a plain block pattern bridgestone road tyre and a full knobbly up front. That was real good in the dirt, so long as you kept it spinning.

That screw needs to come out before the arm will come out. Simple as that. turing the arm will make no difference. The screw is the problem. You keep trying to force the arm out and you will knacker the case.

After today i will see how it goes. Its taken too long already dont want anymore disasters.

True drewps. I had my tantrum. Swore at the sun, moon and thestars then looked at ways to fix it. So after 2hrs with a swiss file and patience i have rescued the thread. Acid test will be when she runs but i see no reason for it not to work. Have to be careful starting the nut to be sure its square otherwise it looks ok.

Well all for nowt. In my haste to put it together i have fuct the threads on the primary driveside thread. Im sick of it now this blow up has fought at every turn. It may well get stuffed at the back of the garage.

They did it this morning came off easy in there words. From my point of view a bearing clamp and a 150T hydraulic press make a lot of jobs easy. Did it for nowt too. Worthy plug....... Automotive services, Bunting road, Northampton. They are mad busy. Allow at least 3 weeks but they are great blokes.

My daily ride is a 80 ish dt175. If im in the mood i will use my tdr. Classics are better than the modern stuff if you ask me. All that electronic eurotrash. You 1 fault from pushing.