Cynic

Sounds fine. They are generally blamed for just about everything. You name it people blame the pump. In 25plus years of running 2 strokes i have never know one fail. It is a very basic plunger pump. Running in lubricant of all things. It should never pack up. Follow the manual and things should be golden. One tip i can give. Swap the black pipe on the 2 stroke system for clear on both feed and supply sides of the pump then you can see it working.

Could you not make a loom. Its not massively expensive. You can also tailer the loom to you making it as complex.(i went for bombroof) or simple as you choose. You say the bikes are very similar. If its the lighting and cdi that vary then work on that and keep the base loom for reliability.

The more you put in the more you get out. People spend a lot of time on the answers. Oh. Between 70to 1 and 15to 1.

And it did this before the new relay....? To me if its saying the stand is down then thats where i start. Dissconect the switch and make or brake the connection as req. If it runs then start as far from the sw as poss then work to it to isolate the issue. My bikes are to old for all this interfeering junk. Shame.......NOT.

What happens with the crank case vent dissconected from the airbox. With the engine running.

Who did you upset to be given that?

Not knocking just seems little value. 25cc is not going to change things by much at all. 4t engines are castrated by all that metal on top. The last 3 lines is due to the fact that junking the airbox for ram air filters is a big no no for anything other than drag bikes as they ruin carberation. The jet sizes are a strage format but maybe thats down to me being stuck in the 80s as far as mc's go. The pipe too makes little difference on a small single. I can appreciate wanting to do it hell i have done enough stuff to money pits. I built a land rover trials car. That was money well spent. Not. Like i said will be an interesting read. But there are plenty on here who will ask why? and not understand the reason, "cos i can". J

And it is much appreciated. Far too often it is a short sentance and then a demand for infomation. Hell some dont even bother with punctuation. Projects would be the place for this. Done in blog format with pictures people can follow and give advice help etc. You may find you need the matching components for the ig. That will want the primary coils and cdi to match up.

Moving the whole post would not help as its the intro too. Better to copy the actual question part across. Then start a thread in the workshop or maybe better, projects.

Where africa. As i write this there is 3 inches of snow on the ground with more coming down.... Yuk....

The bigger issue is being missed here. Ethanol has an acidic water content and is corrosive to brass and some rubber and plastics. The bigger concern especially for smaller high specific output bikes like our 125s etc is that in combustion ethanol releases oxygen. This means your mixture goes to shi.. And you will run lean by worst case 10per cent. That can hole pistons. Proper mine field.

Its only keeping the spring in place and there is plenty of meat in that part of the case. As to the bore. Depending on the depth of those marks. You could need to go up a full 0.5mm to get it clean and bring the bore back to round.

Dont know where he is getting 33hp from. Thought it was more like 24 ish myself. Restoring an italian special edition in the uk.......nah. Bang the engine and such in a uk dt. Job done.

Snap Paul.....:-)

Simple. While it was on its side air got into the brake lines. Bleed the system and it will be fine.

The tyre was just low on grip giving some mild wheelspin. thats all. It can't slip on the bead. That would cause total deflation.

Surely thats easy enough repair. Ally welding or low buget, drill tap and use a set screw as the stop instead.

It will break in the end. Red, blue, yellow dont matter. Buget deficit be dammed we are giving away thousands to lazy spongers who hide behind a few genuine hardship cases. As a married man with my own house. 2.4 and a job i am the soppy fucker paying every which way and it gets me mad. They all bang on about human rights but what about mine. I work 60 to 80 hours a week get sat afternoon and sunday to basically wait to go to work on monday. But the lazy can whine about not getting benefit increaces. My wages havent gone up in a decade. They have been cut twice to "help" the company. There is cock all making this country great. Finantially its going to collapse. A government voted for by less than a fifth of the population, a coalition one at that. And immigration so bad the native population is a minority in a lot of cities. Sore subject......

No they become work or auxilliary lighting. Then all it has to do is be properly fitted and not affect the normal opperation of the vehicle.

Value is entirely subjective. It may share parts with later 100's but that gets you into the std, non std argument. Roughly the engines are similar right through the 70s and eighties. Should be an ok restore but there will be some unobtanium or extortionate parts as it is 40 years old. As a potential daily runner classic its a good one.

For the pound per performance question its a waste of time. The bike will be worth peanuts afterwards too. Personally i find the last 3 lines of the post the most worrying but its your cash. Make a good read either way.

Look here. http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-ty175c-1976_model8575/partslist/ If you look at shifter 1 and shifter 2. on other yam models its a full shaft that crosses the engine and is much more robust. As to the electric start some do some dont. Beleive me when i say your far better without it.

The neutral wire is earthed somewhere on something. Or the switch is stuck. Dissconect the switch and you will know

Be easier to buy a complete yz and get a daylight mot. They sell for peanuts once there not competitive anymore.

Its just one of the american halfbreeds. Not sure why but they seem to get ty bottom ends with the electric start to make the engine for the US we didnt get them. Happy to kick i suppose. Wouldnt be surprised if it had the dodgy ty gear mech too. Unlike the dt where the gear lever shaft travels right across the bike they have a stub shaft set up that wears badly causing selection problems if neglected.