Cynic

You need to say hi in the new members area, introduce yourself and tell a bit about your bike. They are sought after although generally for their parts. The forum is a bunch of people into bikes banter and some light hearted wind up. Without saying hi first, and with a straight to the point question replies are unlikely. At least non micky taking ones.

:)

Drain the oil, add oil, drain and repeat. Myself, I would prob stick some diesel in there and run the engine for a minute or 2. Not ride anywhere. Then drop out then refil with cheap nasty sacrificial oil. Then if that is ok after a short ride. Change the oil for your normal flavour. Once you can trust it a proper ride to bring the motor to proper temp should evaporate any remaining coolant. Its not easy stuff to remove.

Really? Your killing YBR 125's, so fitting a high strung sports (hi maintainance) top end is ghe way to go? Daft, it will die all the same. Ride within the bikes limits.

Lousy intro, Where? what? you can? you like?

Thats all hookah from the past. If the first 50 didnt kill it ride normally, be that flat ooot or granpa mode, u.less your related to Jackie Stewart. The engine is hardly high stress. Cc I have had bikes and cars new and not run any in. Our 14yr old1.5nissan is clocking 130000 miles now. Needed nothing more than brakes, tyres and exhaust.

If you know what and where the crank is in there I would just keep going with the electric spanner. Its already long past fct so why piss about. Cut the windings off then cut the sleeve. The heat should do the rest.

You need a battery from something amd some jump leads (straight to your leads junk the dead battery). Then fire her up and check the voltage across the battery. If the reg/rec has gone the dead battery is a classic sign, bet its dry inside too, at least low on acid.

For now just tell us what the voltage is when the engine is running at around 4k rpm between the + an _ terminals on the battery.

The only complication would be how the ig is triggered, they should be the same via the flywheel but they might not fit the same, be it different taper, different rotor or the securing method may differ as the newer system will need a trigger for the injector too. Maybe use the head and barrel from the later motor

is there a dipstic on this bike?........lol, every bike has a dipstick. Fits between the bars and the seat. It is simply not possible to drain a oc the oil from the motor. There will be oil left, in the gears, laying in the head etc. You could have 10 per cent too much....

Fraid not, unless you have a good understanding of electronics. Easist is to test by sustitution. Its chances of being fine in this instance are pretty slim. Just check your charging voltage when you get the new battery. My money is on it being way high. Proof the regulator is toast.

humph, up till a few days ago weather was supposed to be marginal at best so didn't complain when wifey booked me to decorate the youngest daughters room. What a cock up. Been hearing bikes hooning about, im stuck inside... wahhhh

Hows the battery? These bikes need power to make power.

Def... You should also look at a replacement voltage regulator. Think it in the same place as mine. RHS sat on the bike, near the carb intake rubber bolted to the frame with a yellow wire to it. Little silver thing, about the size of a matchbox. With a fried battery and bulbs if this isnt at least mildly fubar I would be very much surprised, (its most likely the cause).

My regulator failed on my 175, thats a 6v bike and made over 15v . If your running a healthy set of coils your capable of well over 20. I blew dash bulbs and headlight. You may have an earth issue, or a problem with the ig switch. All the generated electric runs through that.

Powder and ball, 9mm, 7.62, with without blindfold?

Yeah I can see that, seeing as the problem bikes are pre 2000? er?

Hmm, me too. Figured without any diaphrans or rubbers to speak of I was okish as I have lined the tank. I will be changing, although that doesent take long with a 2 gallon tank. Good info ta!

Sometime we have to put the 'mod' hat on first, before you say it. Yes people are that stupid. I worked with a lad that broke his own nose. Stubborn 32mm nut, its at head height so he braces himself and puts all his power behind it........On the OPEN end of a combination spanner, when it slipped he basicly hit himself as hard as he could in the face with a 32 combination spanner. Smashed his nose, blacked both eyes and fractured his cheek.

Standard kick process. Couple of slow pushes on the kicker till you feel it come up against the engine comp. Then take the kicker back to the top an give a strong 'kick' through that compression. That should have it go ok.

You should say hello in the new members area first. So many people do the, 'Hi new here, my problem is' then never return makes replies unlikely. The forum isnt a fixit service, just a bunch of people into bikes. Bit of banter and bike chat. As to your issue, bike has an indipendant ig system, therefore will run fine. The voltage reg has prob failed and blown everything with 20+ volts.

Comes from being cynical I think. Use the can properly it wont run out of air. Also, its a public forum, in the main people are ok. Some were dropped on their heads and could blame us for injuries from getting this wrong stating we reccomended it. . Call it ass covering if you like but were all members. We would all catch some hassle.

Ha haa, 2 out of 3......

With a pretty average tool kit and a bit of common sense its a simple enough engine to diy. Even with genuine seals and gaskets and changing critical bearings like both crank bearings and the output shaft bearing. Which will be knackerd, they always are. You will have decent change from 100 quid. If you have the parts ready, I would reccomend a bolt kit too. You could do it in a weekend, prob best to allow one weekend to teardown. Then the next to assemble. Only special tool will be a flywheel puller, thats about a tenner.