Cynic

In normal use the oil light can be on for 100miles or more. Its not an oil warning like a car its just telling you your oil tank is around 1/4 full.

The oil light will come on while your riding. Its not an instant problem like the oil on a 4 stroke.

The scary part is:- What would your injuries be in jeans and trainers? How many people do you see in exactly that?

That paint bug again. I could buy another. I wouldnt be able to leave well alone though. With the price of parts it would rapidly become 900cc. Or a 12 with gsxr heads. I would still look as stock as possible. I would lose my life and or my licence in the process though. That TDR has saved me from a pine box.

I'm out of date now, I bet prices and such are far lower now, have you been on the bandit forums, see what there at.

Yep, hell you can fit a 750 head to a 1200, mine was a 96, you would be amazed at what people do with suzi oil pumpers. Customiser/tuners dream. Just not very subtle. You will never think 'its just like a Honda'. You know what it is when you hit the button. I would check, I seem to remember the valve gear would swap, with the appropriate cams of course. GSXf has extra lobes.

Its what the sentence 'Because I can.' was created for?

Here are some pics of the old girl, if my back had not gone I would never have sold it......Still miss it TBH. Had plans for more mods but. See looks near stock, NOT! Stopping was an issue till I fitted these . Looking at them chicken strips I was not wasting much of the tyres either. Well matched front and rear.

Good exhaust is a MUST. Remus was the one I used, lifetine guarantee on a full stainless race system, pick whatever can you want, its the 4-2-1 bit that makes it work. TTS in Towcester had my bike's spec as a Bandit upgrade package after the success of mine. Ig advancer and run premium, then you can have the jetting done professionally, different in the centre cyl's to the outers. Guys that did mine used little drills in the carbs. GSXf 600 valve gear, not the nasty screw and locknut y type you have. The later GSXf had the valve gear from the gsxr750. They use shims and give you another 2000rpm or so. With it set up right it will light up at 6k and really fuck off at 7, just like a gsxr, and unlike a 600 bandit, difference is the 600 is a long stroke engine so torqueyer than the 750, gives you 886 with 750 barrels (after machining the top case) but that eats the gearbox if you spank it too much as the 600 doesent have the thrust bearings the 750 has, (people keep quiet about that). Filter obviously and Vernier cam sprockets with some racier cams if you feel the urge. That's all I had in mine. Exhaust was the juicy bit at 6-700 quid depending on material. The valve gear and the exhaust is the magic beans. Keep the inlets as tight as you can and run the exhausts lose ie extreems of spec and your flying. But it will look like a bone stock 70hp bandit. ps, erm, don't expect to save fuel. Expect to go from 60mpg to 35/40 and far less at say the IOM. Couldn't do 2 laps.......! pps good oil is a MUST. I sold mine at 34000 miles (bought/tuned at 1800) after a totally trouble free life in rock synthesis 4

It just seems a good time to squeak the bandit up a touch. The 1200 was awesome till they watercooled it. The 600 was set up as a commuter, a Suzuki divvy if you like but that engine has far more in it than any divvy engine (sorry yam). Go too far and gearboxes explode but 100hp is in there with the right parts, that's staying with 600cc too. My old GSXf looked stock save for a bigger rear wheel and a 4-2-1 (that exhaust config works MUCH better on oilcooled Suzuki 4's) pipe. 150mph, that's 13500 rpm bouncing the limiter on stock gearing, over the mountain at the TT and enough acceleration to embarrass a zx6 (to 120 ish). Just saying.........? You go for pretty paint, I got a thing for the oily bits. Looks stock and flying is my thing.

Of course it does, hot, cold, humid, dry it all affects the mixture. Humid is normally hot. Hot air is not as dense, it also contains more moisture so you have less actual air in the cyl and an amount of water that will degrade during the burn to cause an increase in oxygen further disturbing the mixture. As far as a fix goes there isn't one. Unless you want to fuel inject your bike or change the jetting daily.

Sorry but with things like this you will get little or no response without at least an introduction to tell people about yourself. Helping people to remove alarms is not generally something you want to show in open forums. People may not want to share the info. What if there are folk with this alarm on their bike. I hope you fix it but be patient for any help.

Oh man, with the engine at that stage you have just GOT to drop a 750 top end on. At the very least use a later shimmed individual rocker valve gear. Instead of those Y shaped things.

Yeah, had to report to the boss with receipts.

Have you checked the fuses?

Well I was glad to spend 10 mins in a hot, repeat HOT shower when I got back, 600 miles in less than 3 days. The peak district was cold but damn it was good to ride round, some of those hills, not to mention the cyclists riding them. Bike was great, just a leaky fuel tap denting its 100% scorecard. Goes like fk now too. The rebuild has made it sublime. Got some anorak numbers too. 599miles travelled. fuelled 8 times, (10L tank) 8.24L £1.15/L Tesco Northampton 7.1 L £1.19/L Shell Notts 7.56L £1.16/L Co-Op Holemfirth (After 90miles) 54mpg 3.07L £1.19/L Shell Selby (pre ride out top up) 8.59L £1.16/L Sainsburys Scarborough 5.06L £1.20/L Bp South Milford (?) 5.80L £1.14/L Market Raisen (After 74miles) 58mpg Not premium unleaded. 8.14L £1.25/L Shell Peterborough (After 100miles) 56mpg £63.69 spent averaging around , and I still cant believe this, 55mpg. Oddly riding with Elvis or Paul made little difference. That means a theoretical 120 miles from a tank riding briskly. Also means riding slow makes cock all difference. Used a little over a litre of 2 stroke too. Epic, lots of riding The peaks on Friday, then Seaways and on to Scarb for chip supper (dodging the squires cuisine) and on Sunday Paul (finnerez89) and I came back via Skeggy for an ice cream on the beach lol. Fkin A, Your all stars. Would do it again in a heartbeat (with a better sleeping bag). Feeling any better Elvis?

Need permission for the vid mate.

Nope. Its verified by half a dozen bigger bikes with their own sat navs too.

Jesus grouch its a fking puncture. They happen.

Yeah, That is what my TDR does, still means the rectifier is ok and the wiring to the sw is suspect. For me it keeps coming to the same thing. A wiring problem in the lighting switch feed.

I think there may be a wiring issue, I don't think the rectifier is dead. The charging will go via the rectifier and this will power the dc stuff like the indicators. The lighting feed bypasses the rectifier and goes to the lighting switch, sometimes via the ig switch. I think its a white wire from the rectifier to the light switch that your looking for.

Sometimes they just die, my voltage regulator did the same at the mot a few years ago. Remember this stuff is 30 years old and 30 years ago we weren't as good at components.

Strange statement re the AT. Compare the wiring and it will be very similar. If you can power the switch up and get lights i would think there is a specific failure somewhere between the lighting coil in the mag and the switch. That should be easy to test with just a bulb.

Sounds like the rectifier to me too. Nothing else electrical under the tank. As said. Need a picture.

Check your rectifier and ilight sw.