Cynic

+1 on ty but id be surprised if those bearings need changing. DT gearboxes are renown for being indestructible in normal use and almost indestructible (outputshaft bearing)when ridden by idiots through 3 feet of muddy ditchwater (hi there,, was fun though).

Waste of time, the lead is an additive in the fuel preventing pre ignition, in a race fuel this lets you run more ignition advance to generate more power/compensate for the higher octane rating (which I would expect is 110). You may well have gone quite a way past your ignition sweet spot and she may not run very well on it esp under load.

Ironically that engine will more than likely be fixable, engine rebuild is an engine rebuild. Stripped cleaned new clutch and rebore, bit of vapour blasting and a crank rebuild and its as good as any other. Frame on the face of it seems ok. Sw arm is scrap but the shock will most likely be good. Hubs too will likely be ok as well. No I don't think its a write off if your enthusiastic and the bike has sentimental attachment, like mine I have had it getting on 30 years. But you can buy a working dt with mot for under 500 quid if you just want it running, can you rescue that with that amount of cash, ??

Pre ignition has little to do with the jetting, if you hadn't rebuilt the top end I would have said that you need a decoke but that doesent apply. Pinking is caused by the ignition firing to early, an engine sparks and starts the burn while the piston is still on the up stroke and is timed so the bang expands as its pushing the piston down. What happens with pinking is the burn starts early and the piston is rattling in the bore trying to push against the burn. Will rapidly wear out your engine. Check your ig timing, (something I rarely suggest).

Weight saving, go for a good sh1t before your ride and you will save a lot more weight and whatever you blank the manifold with will look no better than the original pipe. Work for work sake.....

Sounds like pinking to me but that is a bit oldskool for a 99dt unless someone has messed with the timing at some point. Might be advisable to get it checked.

And wtf are you going to do with THAT.

Did you check the plunger is opperating properly. By eye it does appear to move little or no oil at idle with the throttle shut. It is only a couple of mls per pump stroke even flat out. Did you fit clear pipe?

Your asking why a pump that has been running WITHOUT any lubricating oil in it for seven years doesn't work.......? Its not lubricated by the gearbox, but by the 2 stroke running through it. With a good pump bled correctly it will be fine. You could rebuild yours.

Fowlers, fowlers or maybe fowlers. Guess who yambits etc get their tricky parts from parts from......When they order something for you its not coming from japan.

Yes, photoshop at its finest. Funny though.

Mine has lots of names, generally christened with a new one when it brakes down, wont start, shits a plug etc etc. Otherwise its the TDR.

Nope kev, I have been riding 2 stroke yams for nearly 30years and in that time I have never had a pump fail. I have had seizures but not because of the pump. Plungers can stick on bikes that get stood for a LONG time, but normally oil seizures are caused by idiots adjusting the pump or forgetting to fill it. Embarrassingly in my 28 years of 2 strokes I have done both on occasion. I have checked the oil flow, on long motorway runs my oil consumption is less than half the figure for full power riding. That is a big reason for not premixing. Your mixing for worst case, max attack oil quantity. Running oil in the fuel means you are running lean due to there being oil in the fuel, you have to increase the size of all your jets to allow for it. As well as having really bad mixture at lower rpm. Lastly its messy and inconvenient to carry all that oil. I filled up with fuel 8 times over the squires meet and topped up the oil once in 600miles. around 700mls went in. That's an oil ratio of 64-1. Pump every single time.

You rag the bollocks out of that. At 3am on a campsite sometimes. Bikes used properly dont coke up cos the engine gets prpoer hot and burns it off. Its chugging along in rush hour traffic day after day that chokes em.

Don't be daft, premixing causes oil build up.

Thinners wont touch the carbon. Neither will the derv without scraping, not to mention it will smoke like the qe2 till it burns off. Jmc oven cleaner. 2quid or so.

Nope, Blanked off the ones on my TDR here in the uk and have ridden that at just above freezing without drama.

Oven cleaner. Nastiest you can find. Plug one end then pour in. Plug the other end and turn it over several times then leave overnight.

Bike clutch doesn't work like that, all it tells you is the outermost pressure plate has released. The rest of the clutch pack could be tight as a ducks arse.

So long as everything is secure that lives behind them.

Just making sure we behave, current climate n all. Site owner will not want this going too far, has in the past. I would be remiss as a mod if I left it.

Mod hat on folks. This thread will get locked/hidden the moment it becomes anything more than very lighthearted humour.

Common misunderstanding getting more common as fewer people understand them. btw from personal experience you get so used to seeing the bloody light when in neutral when the bulb does go you don't notice.

You should probably change the oil, or strip and reassemble the clutch and give it a cautionary once over. The clutch should be fine once its freed off it should stay freed off, sticking that fast could some gunk increasing the stiction on the plates, they only move a couple of mm. Holding the clutch lever will do nothing worthwhile, just moves the pressure plate its the rocking motion that frees them up.

Quietly fading into the background?