Cynic

Brave words Steve, Its a thread about blokes watching out for their kids/daughters. Sorry to say you have NO idea how badly Drewpy would have wanted to tear the kids head off and shit down his neck, no idea at all. Until you have a few of your own and feel their pain, you know what, why, when, and how and you cannot stop it. Makes it 10 times their pain but you have to suck it up and be, "my old man he is solid, my rock". You also don't appreciate the fact your the enemy in this thread.....Although as neither of my daughters are socks I'm not worried.

I haven't been there yet, with my two one is more likely to be breaking their balls than suffering their bull shit. To say she calls it as she see's it is mild. She has quite the reputation at school, lads 2 years above will step aside apparently. My youngest, she is made of glass and i'm dreading going through what you have Andy. I just think the more boy aware I can make them the harder the slime will have to work and that should cull the loosers. Only genuine bidders please . I have told em I am getting a "What you do to my daughter, I do to YOU!" Tee for when the boyfriends appear.

Try looking the other way. The 175mx gave its sw arm to the mk1 dtlc it may share the bushes.

You know she prob has a well paid job in HR somewhere, or maybe politics?

No. Dont fall for the "fit a dtr front end". It completely fucks the bike to be blunt. Yes the front forks are not fancy. But they work well enough and the bike weigh's nothing and has the turning circle of a forklift. Fit the later forks and gsxr's will out turn you. Not joking. i have ridden off road plenty of times with the fancy Xr's Wr's etc. Yes big jumps are out but with tyres that suit the bike, road legal knobly on the rear and a full knobly on the front you will always be with them on the trails. Just keep fuel in mind as you WILL run out first. The biggest weakness is cooling. Off road brakes and hp mean squat on trails but mud hits the motor and bakes hard. Trusty Rusty would benefit by going lc. Could mount the rad on the forks behind a minimal headlight. Whatever engine you do use make sure its sweet as you will spend a lot of time reving its nuts off generating rooster tails of dirt laughing while the others are deciding which rebound setting is best.

It is normal for this forum to say hi on the new members area. Say a little about yourself and you bike/biking knowledge. Blunt one line first post questions, they generally get blunt one line answers. Moved to workshop.

What.....!!! Its a dt175. Put some fuel in and see if she will go.

Yeah. Kinda.... What about... when people go with silly idea's like this. That engine of yours is well past its prime. Your really starting with a frame and wheels. Why not go off on a tangent. Fit a tzr engine and alloy wheels. Will cost as much as fixing yours up, maybe less ironically and unless you really go to a lot of trouble. In original trim it will still be an old trailee. No matching numbers etc. You have to replace most of it anyway so make it a proper animal. Some forks from a later bike. Hell the whole front end from a tzr and build a tracker. With a full power 125. 25 to 30hp from a good one. Hell of a lot better me thinks.

If its REALLY cheap. Gutter bolts in the sidecase and a welded on gear lever. Whats so wrong with yours that this looks like anything other than trouble. Need a picture of the other side to be certain its not an early lc bottom end.

Ground off or never stamped in the first place? My Dt has no stamped number. Dealers were supposed to restamp them. After rplacing cases. (Mine was used as a enduro racer to no success whatsoever) If the place where the number was is smooth its been ground off. Read nicked. As far as it matters they are the same. Just the clutch (125/175) and the oil pump drive gears but as long as they are a proper pair (oil pump and shaft) your ok. Stator plate and rotor can vary as there were 3 different ig systems used. 4 if you count the nasty elec start.

So the cases are split then?

I'm thinking of lightweight, 3mm ply with a 1mm ally skin and ally angle to construct the boxes, then use 20x40 thin wall steel box for the main bearers shaped so they support the boxes from below. I'm aiming for light, (small ammo boxes are 15kg apiece) and deformable (ammo boxes are not!). It would be disastrous to have the bike fall over and damage the rear sub frame that isn't that substantial. I would sooner the paniers are sacrificed. Need to do a dozen other things first mind....

Disc brakes self adjust if its binding it needs attention. Could just need a thorough clean, could need more.

Well I'm planning on several overnights next year, already have some plans in mind for some hard luggage for the TDR. First trip will be easter at least. may be earlier if spring shows early. Will def be at squires though, kind of the Law now eh.

I think that particular shade of gold is really hard to anodise, I had mine powder coated, only a proper TDR fan would know the difference. Have you been on the TDR forum?

Gut feeling for me is float height. It is something that dt mx's seem sensitive to. What colour is the plug?

Just buy a new switch unit, it fits to the bottom of the master cylinder and costs about a tenner.... This was after a 2 second google..... http://www.rawpowermotorcycles.co.uk/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=11779282

Pssst, I think the engine number is on the OTHER sidecase. Just change this one, at a guess I would say that damage is from ice.

The words new tyres and a wobbly wheel don't set off alarm bells? Wouldn't be the first time a tyre fitter got it wrong, I have had tyres fitted the wrong way round.

Copied thread.

Look on the pump, top right will be a small cross head screw, this is for bleeding the pump. Take this out, (oil will come out so be ready) allow enough out so that there are no bubbles. Then start the engine and hold the pump at full stroke, not full throttle on the bars but manually twist the pump to max. Watch it move when you twist the throttle at max throttle the pump will be max stroke just hold it there with your fingers. Don't rev the engine till you see the oil get to the carb. Should take longer to wash up afterwards than the actual doing.

Would love to but waiting on time to rebuild my fuel tap, too dangerous to ride now. Had to skip a local bike night tonight too.

Normal practice for that kind of thing is to take the engine cradle from the 750 and graft that onto the 600. Lot of welding, very accurate expensive welding, jig work etc for lets be honest a worse bike. As said the 600 is a 400 frame with a big motor in it, they had to fit smaller carbs than ideal as it was.

Last time you changed the plug.

Buy a new plug, then stop wanking it in the garden and ride it properly. Running a 2 stroke like that will generate a 'puddle' (figuratively speaking) of oil in the cases that will snuff out the spark as sure as switching it off. Not to mention an EPIC cloud of smoke when you do ride it as the oil will be everywhere in the system.