Cynic

Seriously, just how lame do people have to get before they can be legally terminated for just being irreparably useless to the human race. life, get, fucking, a

It contains Formic acid and Sodium hydroxide, not hydrochloric acid! so keep it off any aluminium. That would come up just as clean with a scourer and some neat automotive soap, hell even fairy. Just take a bit longer longer. It may well look cool and be a bit quicker but without gloves and eye protection, I have seen eyes that have been on the receiving end of acetic acid and photo's of phosphoric that had me to the point of nausea. I have also had hydroxide burns and their a bitch as they cannot be neutralised, you just have to wait till the reaction stops. It may be cool but bleach and a brush. Jesus. Imagine someone with grouch's luck doing it. Hazard information:- http://www.beaucarehygiene.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/COSHH_PDFs/Housekeeping_Chemicals/Hard_Surface_Cleaners/HARPIC_POWER_PLUS.pdf

Ok, being that man that has said before "is it you fuckt, or me fuckt". Cos I don't think that engine will be that bad. Yes there is metal everywhere boo hoo. These engines have an epic rep for dependability, you don't get that from an engine that dies at the first hitch, like the rover v8 the abuse they can take is legendary. So looking past the doom and gloom of the swarf which is not ideal but will ultimately wash off whats the problem. I would strip it properly, right back to the cases as I have with my daughters bike which also has a supposedly totally fkt engine. Check everything. I bet you will find A, emphasis on 'A' knackerd component from a less than intelligent moment by a previous owner. With the engine stripped out, clean everything up removing the metal swarf and see what you have. With some luck you could get away with gaskets a few bearings and a set of rings. Maybe a timing chain, but you will have a far better engine for that. I know there are folks that use money to fix things but believe me, the money for another engine will not be cheap, there fetching 700 to a grand condition dependant. That is also no guarantee that the new engine wont shit its self in 3 months, really nice xvs's are not routinely broken for spares, the fact spares are rare on a bike that has been in production for so long without any great changes speaks for its self, only the ropey ones that have little bling left or bikes that get smashed up beyond repair get to the breakers. By definition that means any breakers engine is unlikely be as good as yours could be with some elbow grease. You don't have any thrown rods or holes in cases, your gearbox is fine etc. Just the metal to clean. Hell, despatch riders use em, can't get a better endorsement to the strength than that. Anyway piece said. If you were closer I would gladly help.

That's good enough for me, I have the early 7 wire ig. Airhead

+1 that is just odd.

My manual says to go 3-4mm past then back by the required amount. With you getting things at the 11o'clock range are you sure you didn't have a bit of a moment getting your clocks and anti's backwards, also, sure the woodruff key is in there? I have to admit when I did mine I didn't use a dial gauge. I did it old school with a piece of flat bar and the head nuts. Bolting the bar across the piston at tdc then using feeler gagues to set a 1.8mm gap. Put my rotor bang on at around 1 o'clock.

Your right In 74 it wasn't a DT, they didn't exist but they were ALL injected. Now is anybody's guess. Look on the front throttle side of the engine, behind a cover will/should be the oil pump this will have pipes and a cable from/to. Then track from there follow the thick line to the tank and see what's in there.

Ah, glad you put this up I thought it was some kind of hack. Might have been better posting it as a link from this thread though so we can see it has at least a level of trust. I'm no techno whizz and screens that pop up like that at the front of a website could be seen as hostile. I turned it down. Asking the obvious question, can people opt back in if they do as I did and opt out through ignorance.

Unless you know in advance exactly how your going to crash its a bit of a mute point. Search 'crash bungs' or 'bike mushroom protectors'. They fit to strategic points on the bike reducing the risk from minor knocks but if you chuck it up the road with any style its going to suffer. No matter what you do.

Wow, no way i'd touch an engine with a bare hand. I can recall leaving skin on my dads old cb100. If that helps.

Had to cut mine. Hacksaw blade without the hacksaw, wrap some tape around one end and start sawing. Its not that hard and you make progress quick enough. Luckily its not a hardened part. And there is a gap, you need to cut through the top hat nylon bushes between the frame and the sw arm. Gives you enough room to get the blade in.

erm, for an aircooled engine its really not that hot. Watercooled engines run around 110 to 120 deg c, water will certainly boil off my TDR engine when its wet, not that that happens outside of a hosepipe generally. Aircooled engines will go well over that, their designed to. I think your worrying over nothing, when aircooled bikes overheat badly in my experience they usually cut out from fuel vaporisation. Unless she is pinking really badly. And by that I don't mean pinging as she cools down.

Is the temp gauge working correctly. Oil should handle 120 deg, turbo's can glow cherry red and oil runs through them.

Possibly. Depends how badly its worn. If its sending your arse numb i would think so. When i swapped mine out it felt horrible and that didnt show any vibes but was allowing gearbox oil to pass the seal.

Pah. Overnight truck stops. Some of those east european lads are neither slim nor shy...

My only consern with all this is that you say it only happens in top. Chain or roller issues are generally full time. Quick question. Pulling off in second. Do you get any vibes?

Then check your chain it may well also be the output shaft bearing, that's a bitch as its a full strip to change, it only comes out from the inside and considered good practice to change whenever the gearbox is split for eg crank seals. Don't rule out wheel bearings and sprockets either. Chain or output shaft bearing? if your lucky the chain would be my first choice as its cheapest but 6th is right near the bearing end of the shaft and that bearing leads a real hard life. Lots of loads, none consistent and stress from the chain (dried old chain lube, water, grit). A good check would be oil leakage from the seal, commonly masked by chain lube.

Could be, as the weight comes on to the bike the chain, you would expect to lift clear of the roller and not run on it full time. Only when the suspension moves I would have thought. Has the bike been jacked up? it was common back in the stone age for people to drill a new hole for the top shock mount lifting the suspension a few inches at the rear. I know cos I did it to mine when I was 17. That really gives the chain rollers and tensioner some work to do. Don't forget that one, the tensioner, they are notorious for seizing up.

Mine is doing it too now jimmy, looks like its probably something with the last bit of work done.

Dappy bird on a triumph with dodgy sense of humour etc etc, lost scotsman...... Yeah sorry bout that, allergic to cumin spice. Big scoff in Scab, or wherever else we feel like, is the way to go I think, better to have time for some beer back at the camp.

Just use the forgotten password links. No one will know your password, not even the site owner I believe. Data protection etc. Although I'm sure software exists that 'could' extract it, depending on your government clearance if you know what I mean.

Difficult to put it together causing drag. Dead easy to fk the primary adjustment. I dont mean mincing about at the lever but down at the clutch. My money is on the grease monkey buzzing the cover bolts off. New clutch pack. Check it goes foreward by riding it out the workshop. No ajustments as it works fine. Even though a more concientious previous owner may have adjusted for wear. Ching lodsamoney for minimum effort please.

Yip. More dt fans. Been there. When somebody says "carefull the decompressor is bust" on a Maico 490, listen.

Ask the paint suppliers. Pounds to peanuts there is a process to paint chrome. Would new rims not be an option. The stock rims are nothing special and if its a show bike? Chubby 150 or whatever will max the space on the rear with an 80 on the front? Esp as you have the apehangers on. (Dont like em myself).

Never had the cash or faith in option 1. As the son of a mechanic (brave man who calls my ol man a fitter) never afraid of spanners. Plus, something to have pride in. Knowing that the bearings are greased, bolts are tight because you did them for you. Not someone grinding to 5pm thinking more about his bike than yours. Option 2 was the only option. Ever.