Cynic

So thats why priests have a dirty habit.

Vin

Essence.

Summer....

Limiter.

What a ridiculus idea OG And Ryan i think that is gonna need a pretty good lock as thats one tasty bit of kit.

Mouth.......

God knows what an RMX is, just make sure you don't go the same way.

God knows what an RMX is, just make sure you don't go the same way.

A rusty chain is a chain thats been badly neglected, i'm in the scottoiler camp myself and singles do hammer chains with their big power pulses. I'm sure other people will have their views but if i was going to france i would stick a new one on. You will have enough worries without thinking about a duff chain.

So it was a bit lean to start with, the 120 may be the way to go but i still think you need a plug chop to be sure. My old 50 was a cantankerous old bastard and needed constant fiddling to get it right when the weather changed. Friday afternoon/evening was often spent tweaking it to perfection. Me and a bloke on a yellow TS with a 70 kit were forever battling, he would find a few mph then i would. Happy days.

That is one of the early indicators of carpul tunnel syndrome, your carpul tunnel compresses the nerves in your wrists causing funny pains and tingles. Something that helped me before i had to get fixeda nd its useful even if you are clear of CTS, line up the controls on the bike. Its awquard to explain but when you are sat in your natural riding position your wrists should be in line with your fingers with them resting on the levers. If your wrists are bent to any degree this will increace the pressure on the carpul tunnel and this in turn increaces the pressure on the nerves. If its only the tinyest tingle odd times the above could well check it if indeed that is the problem but if it gets worse see your doctor cos in its early stages it can be sorted with steroid injections.

Your kidding, when i was there what happend on the Island stayed on the Island as far as penalties went and bans were for a year starting from the end of the TT. Hence you can't go next year. They even sold T shirts with "I got banned at the TT" at thye station, you could only have one if you got nicked.

Its an amazing place during TT, be prpared for the most shocking profiteering you have ever seen. I was there for Joey's last races 10 years ago and then fuel was over a £ a litre. Watch out for the German riders, there are thousands of the bleeders and they ain't too clever with riding on the left. One riding a trike took out 8 brits cos he was on the wrong side of the road approaching a crest. You will see lots of signs saying 'links farn' (keep left). And they can be inconsiderate sods as well they pass VERY close. Most importantly Mervins advice is gold plated (although that ban only stands on the IOM and doesent affect your UK licence), the island is bloody dangerous. Surviving Mad Sunday is not a joke enjoy it by all means but there were at least a dozen people that never took the ferry home cos they thought they were better than the mountains when i went. I would love to do it again, ride within your limits, stay sharp and you will have the time of your life. Even more so if you go with a few mates. The campsite at Peel has good hot showers and is local to a couple of pubs, a shop, chippy etc and fuel. Oh one other thing, when i went i didn't know that in the IOM the national speed limit sign means GLF. If you have an accident and you are goingLF the law will have your balls but otherwise its legal but DON'T speed in the villages. My mate left me standing as he went tearing away outside Douglas at a million miles an hour on his Bandit. DOH he didn't catch me out twice.

Nope i'm going on what my old DT did with the Autesa 60kit and the fuel mixture is wrong, now the weather is warming up the cylinder isn't being cooled as efficiently and its starting to tell. Try searching on the internet for the carb settings on a European DT (spanish would prob be best)as they were 60cc, i used a parts book back in the day but it worked. My old big bored dt went through fuel that fast any crap in the float bowl was immediately evident and if you get water in the jets it stays there and spoils your whole day. Much as a carb clean won't hurt, no i recon its going lean at high rpm. Prob not by a lot maybe lift the needle a notch or two (put the clip in groves lower on the needle) and see.

Just get out on the rally circuit and have a laugh, if she's just divorced i would have thought she would want to have some single fun for a while.....

I remember a post recently that was about DT50 ig timing and the diference between working and not is not a lot so if it was ok before and nothings been touched its safe to assume its ok now. It might need one grade up on the plug. Sounds to me based on what i remember from the big bore i had on a dt in the stone age that your running lean at high rpm, the extra oil wont really be helping if it doesent match the extra fuel used by the engine. You need to go out and ride it to the point where its about to have a strop then kill the motor and do a plug chop to see just whats going on in there.

Not really sure of the problem you have could be carb related, or possibly ignition/plug issues. Does it tick over ok, whats it like on fuel, any funny noises, choke on/off, when was it last serviced, these are just a few questions. The one thing i will say tho is sticking 2 head gaskets in is complete coblers and your mate wants a kick in the n4dds for even sugesting it.

Possible, generally the square section arm goes into them as a mod. The round section sw arm can break/crack if you start giving the bike a really hard time off road. Mine is a W plate and that has the square arm. And yes they are pretty much a straight swap.

As far as the oil pipes go you will need to take the clutch cover off to change them. And identifying the bike, Frame ID 2K4 covers everything 175 from 78 to 85. But this may help. Fr no 000101 on DT175MX 2K4 (78-79) Fr no 010101 on DT175MX 2X2 (79 only) hardly different at all from the 2K4 Fr no 020101 on DT175MX 4J4 (80-85) this is typically identified by a square section sw arm. But is also when the oil tank swapped sides as far as i'm aware, from the left to the right to improve access to fill the oil tank and the airfilter design. So yours could be an early 4J4 or late 2x2 as you have the round section arm but the oil tank on the right.

I think it will hang on WHERE the 60 limit was, miles from anywhere or the middle of a town and any respective dangers. As to if you get banned.

Hey don't laugh it off, if your dads offering you dyno time to get your bike running good take his hand off at the wrist. Don't forget if you lose 6-7 hp from a busa cos of a bit of dodgy carb tuning at the factory you will never know. But loose 7-8 hp from yours that would tell. Aside from which i gaurantee if the dyno man is any good he will get a bit more go, a better throttle response and a far smoother torque curve than you have at the mo. The factory just sets the bike up to factory settings, a dyno run will optimise it all to work together on YOUR bike. Do it man you WILL feel the diference.

One option you have on a PURE dirt bike is to get hold of the flywheel and stator plate from a (78-79) 125mx they use a bigger field coil and points so you would only need ONE wire. From the mag to the coil. Well via a kill switch too i suppose.

The only negatives i've heard as far as tdm's go cos a mate of mine has had 2, one dodgy green colour and a burgandy jobbie. Is the exhausts rot faster than the speed of light and they are utter, bastards to work on. I would happily have one myself. I used one for a few days on holiday and they are great real world tools.

You need to expand on 'butcherd' but here is a quick discription: there are 2 systems, the 2K4(78-79) and 2X2(79only) Dt 175mx had the following: Brown, red, white/red,black They come direct from the mag. orange, black/white, black, come out of the loom. The 4J4 (80-85) Dt175mx and the Dt125mx (4J3) of the same period had the following: Brown, white/red, black. They are direct from the mag. Orange, black/white, black, coming from the loom. All of these bikes have the orange feeding the coil, the black and white kills the engine via the handlebar stop switch and the black is the battery return/negative. On both bikes there is also green/white, light blue and yellow. The yellow being the lighting feed to the ig switch, the light blue the neutral light earth and the green and white which turns to white in the loom?? charges the battery via the rectifier. Some of the 125s had points.