Cynic

The easiest to answer is no.4 yes dont worry about a battery. Its only important for the charging circuit and the lights and as they share several components its safe to assume that you will never need either so the battery is not needed period. OG coverd getting the flywheel off, while its off replace the points, condenser and the plug and cap. Far easier and from the looks of the bike i would guess they are past it anyway. Bikes like that are not generally maintained like a road bike so consumables like the condenser and points will be in a bad way. The timing will only change if: some idiot has undone the stator plate thinking it will help ( unlikely) or the motor is split for a crank rebuild or such so i would forget about it for now. As for testing the ig coil get a multi meter and you should get around 6000ohms for the HT coil and around 1.7 ohm for the primary (stator) coil. And for your next question the points gap is 0.35mm or 0.014in.

Nope your on about torque, i'm talking about no load situation. The loads you are talking about are IN ADDITION to the basic stresses.

Haynes manual 210, Yamaha 100,125 and 175 trail bikes isbn 1 85010 300 3 Runs up to 1985.

The XS frame would never be right with the little rd motor dragging it around, it may be powerfull but its only torquey in comparison to other strokers. If you fancy a challenge and something with a bit of oomph for your XS what about a TDM lump, bet that would work out a bloody site cheaper than an RD.

I have tried cod a while back round a mates. Just could not get the hang of the controls and got mullerd so much that i just gave up and drank his beer.

+1 plus age of empires for the ego.

Got to be honest mate i can think of much better places than an XS400 for an RD motor. Thats like mixing peanut butter and chicken tikka. Both are great on their own but mixed.............. If you said XT frame or an IT. That could be a little spicy.......

So 40odd degrees from a heat gun will melt seals designed to operate under pressure/vacume extreems at temperatures of over 100. I said 'reliable methods', and stated 'there may be more imaginative ways' of changing the seals. Obviously I'm all wrong. I know absoloutly nothing about DT175's i wont coment on this thread again.

Wouldn't be the first time at the barnyard or any rally that someone would think it was really funny to park your bike somewhere else when there pissed up.

Std motorcycles are negative switched always have been as far as the japs go, it reduces cable size and switch size as the current has already passed through the load and is therefore reduced due to work losses. It also reduces the no of fuses needed and makes wiring easier as you have an AC feed and a DC and thats about it on the older stuff. All you need from there are the lines to the item you are switching. Very simplified but thats the idea.

Wouldnt it have been easier to have bought an early R1 instead?

Seriously no you cannot change the seals with the crank in place, they are pretty solid with metal inserts and the only way to fit them reliably is to heat the cases up and pop them into place at the same time as the crank bearings and the crank. All in one opperation while the cases are hot and the crank/seals and bearings are cold. Fit the bearings, let them heat through, then fit the seals let them heat through then fit the crank. Sounds easy and it is. There may be other more 'imaginative' ways round the issue but TBH if the crank seals have gone then all the other seals on the motor will be had it or all but. When you consider you will have to stip the motor down to the point of splitting the cases just to be able to get at the seals it seems daft to bodge it. Don't forget these seals have to be in exactly the right spot or they will fail soon enough and then your doing it all again. Also the output shaft bearing WILL be past its best as it lives in oily grinding paste most of the time. And for the cost of the parts, especially with the condition of the bike in the photos 80 odd quid (and thats with genuine parts) on a bottom end rebuild would be money well spent.

So it was the regulator, albeit a duff connection, result. Glad its sorted..

The engine will still be making power past 6500 but in decreasing amounts and the stress on an engine is the square of engine speed. So at 4000 rpm you have 16 times the stresses compared to 1000rpm, if we take it further 7000 rpm is fifty times the stress of 1000 rpm, 8000 would be 64 times the stress. These are hardly scientific but you get the idea.

Changes to the front sprocket make a pretty big difference depending on type of bike and horsepower. Bigger sprocket more speed smaller more acceleration. Works in reverse on the rear sprocket. The thing is there are a lot of other things affecting the final drive ratio. The spacing of the normal gears may be too wide to pull larger sprockets. There are implied ratio's between the rear wheel and the sprocket too. At the end of the day 1 maybe 2 teeth on the front sprocket up or down is about all you want to be messing with.

In theory the CBT can be done on anything, i have personally seen it done with on a busa. But its up to you. The rental would prob be slightly easier but i'm sure you will practicing first anyway. So i'd save the cash.

When you have been checking all these wires did you check the primary coils and the cdi trigger, could be that the coils are breaking down and the heat absorbed from sitting while you filled with fuel screwed with the resistances. It would give a weak or erratic spark.

Air filters for the CT2 are still available and i think they are almost the same. I would be looking into using one of those suitably modified rather than one of the aftermarket things. In my experience they very rarely do any good on a std motorcycle. They either get wet easy or they leave you messing with jetting to get it to run. No the carb settings between the two models is broadly the same so the filter must be a similar draw. Its just a case of fitting it into your housing. Its the same shape and from what i can see the same size so you may be able to use the frame from one and the foam from the other.

Nope thats it all done at around 7500, the engine ( new) peaked at around 6500rpm with 16bhp.

This is taken straight from Maplins web site. I've had one doing the ig on my suzuki for over a year. Just make sure when you use it, when the bike is 'off' all the switching is in the normally open position or over a week or so it will flatten the battery. Which will indirectly have the result of switching your bike on. How much power it can handle, dunno exactly think its about 10A DC. All i run is the ig on my bike and its fine. And turning your bike off from 20 yards as you walk away across the car park is still funny. The blokes at work think i have a fancy alarm system. I know people who have rigged up a second unit to start the bike as well. "Three Channel Wireless Remote Control Kit only £35.99 Order Code: L28BK In Stock* Product Features Complete 3 channel remote control system Switches up to 12A at 230Vac mains Up to 70m range High security protocol Easy learn transmitter feature Easy installation via screw terminals Momentary or latching outputs Requires no radio licence A versatile general purpose remote control, which can be used for controlling many different applications such as garage doors, garden lighting, gate and door control, etc. The system utilises a highly secure code-hopping protocol to ensure safe operation. Easy to install, the receiver is connected using standard screw terminals and is powered from 12Vdc. The three output relays can switch up to 12A at 230Vac mains and are operated individually by pressing the corresponding keyfob button. Each of the relays can individually be set to toggle on/off or switch momentarily when the transmitter button is pressed. The system is supplied with one three-button keyfob transmitter and the receiver can learn up to a total of 6 keyfobs for multiple users. If a keyfob is lost or stolen, then simply reset the unit and teach it a new keyfob code. Additional three-button keyfobs are available: Order Code RN57M. Back to Top Technical Specification Specifications: Transmitter battery: 23A (supplied - replacement JG91Y) Operating frequency: 433.92MHz Receiver supply voltage: 12Vdc Receiver current: 6mA (standby), 66mA (switching) Three relay outputs rated at: 12A peak / 5A continuous @ 230Vac Back to Top "

Maplins remote control, box under the seat or wherever. Wire your lights through it so that they are done from the remote. 3 latching or non latching contacts depending on your choice. One for ig, one for lights one for main beam. Bond a magnet to the back of the remote and stick it on the tank/bars and you have NO visible switching as well as being high load contacts (16A i think) and you can do the remote game turning the bike off/ lights on/off etc from 30 yards away. Use 2 and you can really go to town with one using latching contacts and the other non latching. I use one for the ignition on my suzuki, i have all the wiring required to start it routed behind panels that need tools to move. No keys required, no scratches on the yolk. Was awkward for a moment with a bobby tho

Same place that does the Fork andls, advertised on telly. Old looking place ask for Ronnie

The voltage at the battery doesent change, battery charging volts don't change. Coils tested ok, one quick test for you, start her up turn the lights on and disconnect the regulator. If i'm right it will bring the headlight on. VERY bright so don't rev the motor much. The regulator will be toast. Exactly what happend to me on my bike lights work then dont as it happend at the exact moment it was being MOT'd. If it had only lasted 2more minutes.

You forgot the special tool, Big kin amma.

THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL YOU WILL CHANGE THE CRANK SEAL WITH THE CRANK IN PLACE..............