Cynic

Its hasn't been a problem till you saw it, carry on.

[quote name='barwell1992' and that leads me to my question whats the best way to polish mashined wheals down to get rid of the ridges sand paper from like 120grit work my way up to 1500 grit and then use wire wool and metal polish or buy a polishing kit with blocks of polishing wax stuf thats like sand paper ? Jesus man you like doing it the hard way. If you want to polish your rims, pay somebody. Seriously, the profesionals will do rims for 30-40 quid if you rempve the tyre for em. Ok you want to do it yourself. Take the laquer off the wheels with nitromorse or some other NON abrasive paint remover after having the tyres removed, then with a good quality polishing kit set to it. Even small scratches and chips will take a lot of effort to clean them up so for gods sake dont go at it with 120grit or you will be polishing forever. Oh and you will look like a coal miner afterwards. Seriously pay somebody else. One other point, if you are riding all year get yourself a spare set of rims to run on in the shitty months cos bare ally will corrode like mad in salt.

Would the decorator have another 'progect' then?

The eternal question spit/swallow? Personally i swallow my toothpaste suds as i find it helps my throat.

You need BWJ's ceiling decorator to whip the ingredients up to a nice frothy mix..........

Welcome to the forum and your kickstart problem may be the self same issue that someone has recently had in the classic section. Ct1's seem to take a fancy to eating the layshaft. It shears at the bearing behind the kickstart idler. If i'm right (you will have to take the clutch basket off to be certain), it will look like the idler is on a little stub shaft. When the shaft actually runs right across the box and has the final drive sprocket on the other end. If i'm right its a gearbox strip i'm afraid. The CT1's are the only 125/75 with that shaft EVERYTHING following has a different shaft with some minor detail changes, so it may be possible to fit a later shaft. Looks like it could be something worth checking out.

Wow, where are the rocket launchers and ball grillers goff. You must be in a mellow place today.....

Nice to get a follow up, glad it's all sorted.

You have to admire the way women can multi task, she is sorting the ceiling, pointing at two other parts of the ceiling that will be done next and giving the ladder holder a sly wink too, all at the same time. Or would that be the ladder holder having a sly w...

now lets look at the problem, takes 5 minutes to put a post together, add that to the time taken to actually register. So with there being only 21 minutes between your registering and the post going up that means you spent nowhere near that amount of time doing the actual search. Ah found the problem, you, if thats what we get for a first post you can fuck off somewhere else.

So long as you compare a 78 125 to a 78 175, then its cdi, engine top end, clutch (has an extra plate but its the same basket) and thats it. The later versions of the 175 had a different swing arm and shock with the rear sw/arm being of square section tubing cos the racers were breaking the round ones. You can swap them but you need the shock to go with it. The airboxes and battery locations moved around 79/80 and the oil tank swapped sides at the same time. Also the cdi system changed from a 2 coil system to a single coil system at or around the same time. Like i said so long as you compare the same year there is very little difference, but you can find quite a lot different between a 78 125 and a 82 175. As to price? Pick a number a ton for a shiter with useable parts up to maybe 13-1400 quid for a concouse megga low milage minter with all the bells and wistles. Realisticly around 5-600 quid will get a useable tidy bike. But you need to buy smart as the difference between good and shit can be a very fine line on these ol girls. Best of luck breaking it on Ebay, prices are low at the minute.

Yep i know what you are saying, but you were using 2star back then yes, wonderfull drop of lead slipped in there to neutralise the abrasive quality of petrol on valve seats, PISTONS, etc. And a better octane rating. As for the clatter i'd be checking the ig timing sounds like some pretty serious detonation going on there (causing slap).

Sorry to tell you this but dark brown with a little sotty stuff round the edge os spot on. If you want to do flat out runs down the bypass i would be going up on the mixture. Maybe going up 5 points on the main. Possibly more now the weather is closing in and getting colder. Although at all other time it will run like a sack of crap it will do better (as in last longer before it blows) on the bypass. Also are you sure the ig timing is right as that can cause the piston problems as well if its out. I think i've said this before but the DT175 isn't designed as a fast road bike. Its more a tickle through the trees, rag it up the hill, tickle through the trees kind of performance. If you look at the performance cousins of the DT like the IT and the YZ which are designed to run flat out for far longer you will see that the barrel and heads have massively more cooling area to handle the abuse they will get, also the IT stuff is a straight swap too (if you can find a good one). They (DT 175) can be tuned to go quite a bit quicker if you know what your at but it needs the barrel machining for port heights and piston timing etc. Not really a diy job unless you own or have access to a lathe. As far as it goes when the piston blew most of it will have gone straight out the pipe as it melted so the bottom will probably survive ok esp as you have just rebuilt it.

Sorry i was correct, that sounds daft? but anyway. Looking at the blow ups on csml the shaft is unique to the ct1, all the rest the CT2,3 DT's up to 76(ish) when they went to 6 speeds are the same which may indicate some kind of flaw with the design of that shaft back in the day. If it proves tricky to track down see if the later gear assy will swap. The engines are VERY similar, the only obvious difference to see from the drawings online is a circlip between 2nd and 5th gears. The gears are in the same order, in fact they are the self same gears (numbers match). I would imagine the later shaft would be massively easier to track down. A company that has been very helpfull to me in the past is TY Trials they are highly likely to have what you need as they specialise in 70's-80's trail bikes, they will happily have a natter about your problem too. As far as changing gears whilst the engine is off, its not really reccomended without a little caution as there is a risk of damaging the selector forks. That said if you just rock back and forth gently letting the bike move a foot or so in each direction it will allow enough movement for the gears to separate cleanly.

Hmmm, i would have called em driving lamps, any chance they could be adapted to a twin fillament bulb then you get the best of both worlds, the look when your cruising and the extra light when you need it.

TBH mate there will be very few people on here even know the DT175 continued on. The greater part of the active members i'm aware of are from the US and UK. They were dropped for the Liquid cooled mono shocked replacement here and the states in around 1984. Aus, vietnam, india etc carried on with the 175, don't suppose you want to be batting through your temperatures miles from sod all paranoid its going to boil up. Anyway, for the cycle parts the newest i can get is a 92 manual at http://store.payloadz.com/str-asp-i.131893-n.Yamaha_DT175D_Workshop_Service_Repair_Manual_1992_DT_175_D_eBooks_-end-detail.html Best i can do at the moment, i've seen some pictures etc and the engine looks like it hasn't changed in a decade so apart from minor technical differences it may well do, these bikes seem to evolve more than change in big steps. Sorry i can't do more. I know the resident bloodhound who'd normally sniff's out this kind of thing is away at the moment so you may get lucky in a couple of days. As far as the engine problem, i'd be looking at the carb. Get it cleaned out and check the float height, 3500k's in a decade is not enough to keep the carb clean. Other than that it could be an ignition item but these dt's are pretty good and its normally dodgy or no maintanance that causes them pain.

Finally (sniff) somebody understands me............

Nope, its the part i listed, item number 24 sits in the self same place as the item he's discribing and does what he's discribing. The layshaft comes right through the case and the endfloat is taken care of from the cluster side, if the shaft has failed leaving an aparent blind hole then it would drift out on its own. There are several engineering reasons for not fitting a gear that rotates on a shaft that rotates and only having a bearing on one side. I have a spare motor in the garage i'm going to pull the covers off tommorow and have a look/ take some photo's. I would guess at, bearing has worn the idler has pinched onto the shaft the primary drive has forced it to turn while the layshaft has wanted to go the other way and its sheared clean off.

Strap him on the 350 and show him, or grab the keys to the TDR and let it live for once. I cannot believe these people who can plod on a powervalve motor. Strokers are like drugs, a finantial and physical pain in the arse for most of the time but when you hit the spot, ohhhh man none of it matters.

Come to think of it, it was a DT, she could be on here, Watford on the A41 white jeans, grey top, heloooooooo.

Ok this is going to sound letcherous but i dont care, this morning at work, 6 degrees according to the truck what do i see at the traffic lights. A delightfull young lady on a DT. What do i really see. A 17 yr old with a fine bust and nipples like scammel starter buttons (she was wearing a thin sweatshirt type off the shoulder thing and jeans) she was VERY obviously cold. No coat, no gloves, slip on deck shoes it made some of my old scars hurt just looking at her. She was pretty tho.

That could well be part of it if they never clear. Can you not show him how, you have a pretty good stroking knowledge (that came out wrong) judging by your bikes. Can you not show him how to ride it properly.

Its more impressive when it spontaniously ignites of the exhaust.........

I'm confused, what do you mean by passing lights. Do you mean driving lamps, or fog lamps. If you are refering to driving lamps then they can only opperate on full beam, and should be disabled at other times to stop them blinding oncoming drivers. Fog lamps can be on at any time but are quite often switched off when main beam is employed to reduce the electrical load on the vehicle. As obviously once main beam is employed the benefits of fog lamps are nill.