Cynic

Sorry to dent your enthusiasm but if you let the engine hang on that frame it will remove its self at the first application of throttle. You will have to fit some form of support to the frame as the dt engines are designed with strength front to rear. The upper rear mount is more for vibration damping than strength. There are some pictures of my motor the 125 will look exactly the same any differences are on the inside. As far as the carb goes for a DT its a Mikuni VM24SS simple, i don't know where the other numbers you have came from but the all have that save for one DT125 which has a 22 and the DT100 which has a 20. As to bigger, waste of timeespecially if your after mid range as bigger carbs will drive the power up the rev range. I have been unable so far to get a 26 to work on my DT so i would suggest you leave well alone. As a final note your probably better of with premix in your case. One trick a friend of mine used to do was carry a big syringe under the seat and use the original oil tank to keep his oil in. When he filled up he would draw off as much as he needed saving the hassle of carrying a bottle of 2 stroke with him.

Considering for the sake of a busted spoke i'm having both of the wheels on my TDR rebuilt i'm probably the type of person you don't want a reply from. Cheap levers! How about a what if, sat at the lights waiting for the off and the clutch lever fails , entering your favourite bend, and the brake lever fails Sorry, i like to know my bike is right, if i had doubts like your having with, well, life affecting components. They would be in the bin. Sorry.

Easiest way out of this is..... Get a 125 engine starting 2A6 on the engine number thats got points ig. Ie one wire to worry about and no cdi to find, or fit. Then fit a 175 top end on that. Apart from an extra clutch friction plateand the top end there is little difference. The oil pump setting will need increacing a little as far as i'm aware its the same pump. The actual oil demands for a 175 and a 125 are not all that different. Carb wise they will all work ( Mikuni VM24SS ) just the jetting will need to be tweaked to your exhaust and airbox, so the one on the above 125 motor will do fine.

Take your time with a reasonable tool kit, std sockets spanners and allen keys will do and you won't find it a problem. A haynes manual and some common sense and your about there. You will also want a heat gun for fitting bearings and a crancase splitter (diy) as the cases dont separate cleanly without one. I did mine (The dt175 is the same pretty much engine wise) without any trouble. Parts ie gaskets, bearings etc(all gen) were around 90quid.

Don't bother with smaller rear sprockets its a waste of time, you will also be screwing with the sprocket to wheel ratio which although static affects the amount of power needed to actually turn the wheel. Stay with the front cog go up a tooth there or maybe 2. Don't get dragged into the hype like the previous post, 90mph on a naked 125 4 stroke don't make me laugh, the YZF needs to be fit and lucky to break 80. And as a final note, start your own thread, a lot more people will read it.

Ouch, 180 quid would buy you a lot more in 1988 Thats a real gem i'd wager there are very few in that condition, the fairing is rare the YPVS even rarer, matching numbers etc, etc and one owner minimal mileage . Most have a dozen owners and untold mechanical nasties. I hope you have a lot of fun with it, don't let it gather dust though, personally i think thats the saddest part of really tidy classics. They become ornaments. I have a 9000mile TDR, that takes me to work on a morning, if the weathers a bit iffy its my DT175.

You are opening the nipple properly aren't you? you won't feel any pressure on the lever till there is enough fluid in the system to produce the pressure. Open the nipple up properly and push fluid with the syringe till it fills the master cyl without any obvious bubbles. Then fine tune the traditional way if you must. Didn't ever have to bother on my old suzuki.

Thats nice, memories........ 7000 miles, full power , full fairing? don't recall those on a 88 but they wern't cheap back then so maybe my mates couldn't afford em. That must be worth a few bob now.

I'm on face book, but thats only so i can see what my kids are looking at.

Start easy and work up, junk the fuel in the tank, also remove the carb and flush that through as well. Basically anywhere the water laden fuel may have traveled needs clearing out. Be persistant water can be quite stubbon in some of the deeper area's of the carb. It certanly wont have done the motor, unless you got A LOT of water actually in the cyl and it hydraulic'd. Thats normally through the filter when traveling through water just a little too deep

Fork sliders are a bit much really, most accidents/offs will trash the forks somehow. If the motor and bodywork is coverd thats as far as you need go really.

FF sake, if you have the mechanical ability to remove the motor then you have the ability to fix a top end sieze on a 2 stroke. A manual, rebore and piston and some gaskets will be nowhere near 300quid, and engine rebuild from ebay , what next?

Anybody got any thoughts on wheel replacements for the TDR, bike is a keeper but as a maried slave to the system with 2.4 sprogs, morgage etc etc etc lashing out hundreds of pennies for some fancy stuff is a a stretch. Anybody got some realistic soloutions, am i right in thinking that one busted spoke may well be the beginning of the end for the rest of em? Cheers all. Edit:- been looking at central wheel. Rebuild my wheels with stainless spokes for about 80 quid a wheel? Opinions...?

There should be a little ball bearing that sits between the primary rod and the smaller section that is opperated by the arm on the crankcase. If that is missing then the unit can unscrew its self. I would check that before using the threadlock, you shouldn't need the threadlock to hold it. The locknut should be more than enough.

Isn't that normally black smoke Andy? Skik it depends on WHEN it smokes, under power it may be the rings or the mixture, on the overun (when slowing down with the throttle shut) it may well be the valve seals. If it smokes at first start up that is also valve seals generally. Most of my 4 strokes have been cheap junk with one of the above issues with one exception. Fortunately i learned my lesson and stick with 2 strokes now

Don't worry about the rear mount mine has not had the bracket that it fits to in my ownership and i've never had any issues. Its probably a lot easier to fit with the lug cut off TBH.

It stores inlet mixture, very breifly before the reed valves shut there is an amount of back flow before the piston passes and starts to draw into the cases again. This would normally be lost, the boost bottle gives it somewhere to go and means the engine starts to fill instantly the engine demands it. Supposedly it boosts torque, maybe it does. On the TWIN cylinder bikes its more fun as the spare charge flows into the other piston. But to answer your question yes it is just an empty bottle that absorbes inlet backpressure and puts it to good use.

Don't even go there, its no good for ethanol fuels which all pump fuel is now. Around 5 per cent but increacing all the time as its renewable, cheap and burns like (note like not the same as) petrol. These are the people i used, Clicky. Stuff looks like its done the biz on my TDR tank. Absoloutly NO external effects at all, all the seams are sealed, any rust neutralised and then the whole lot is coated in a resin that seals it tight.

Heloooooo still here, if you find owt thats gauranteed to work for under 30quid let me know.

Funny though, i didn't think they took out the bin's on bank holiday. Its ok i'm leaving.

I wonder if he wasn't just some poor shmuck put up for us to focus on. All the proper leaders relaxing off the radar.

Either post the frame number minus the last 3 numbers, Easier still, which side is the oil tank. RHS its a 1980 model left its a 1979. There is some carry over and people do swap parts about so the engine/frame number is the safest bet.

We need Olgitonabike in on this. His bike is a 79 and he will know exactly where these components go. I have the later bike and the entire airbox/battery/oil tank layout is completely and utterly different. Cdi and the regulator live elsewhere too. One important point, you bike is a 79 but you have the later loom. Does your cdi need a red wire? After answering this question does your generator have a red wire coming from it? You can see where i'm going with this? There are matched 7 wire cdi to 7 wire regulator.

Paul Weller's busy

You have to delete the http code that appears at the front of the link, don't let text be immediately after the last image (img) marker too. Idealy make the picture link its own line or they all get a bit out of control and your pictures don't come through. Yes the connector on the left is part of the generator wiring, green and white, a yellow, a light blue and a black i believe should be in there, model dependant of course. You should have a brown a white and red and another black with possibly a red depending on the cdi as loose connectors.