Cynic

god, far too bloody complicated. All these fancy lever idea's are fine but you have to use them. 2 choke cables the friction type, One with a H (high rpm) and one with a L (obvious) then you just pull the one that counts. That gives you infinate scope for an all round 'middle' and the extreems when you want to be silly. Believe me i'm going from experience here the more complicated the more hassle, springs are never the right tension.

This is something you really need to be checkingthe manual for. It may have a separate oil resivoir in the system, split sump? As an example my TDR has 2 drain plugs for the gearbox oil due to their being 2 pressure fed area's and you need to run the bike to get those filled properly to get the right oil levels. If you don't do it right it ends up massively overfull as mine was when i got it. I drained nearly a pint from the system before it was right.

Back in the stone age as a snotty teen the new powervalve motors were just appearing. We were using parts from 350 power valves and good old fashioned choke cables (ask your dad) to opperate the valve manually. The 350 donated the pully/cable assy that fits to the barrel as the early learner legal powervalve stuff didn't have it. I remember one flash twat making an electric controller for his college electronics practical, worked too. It was basic and you can only realistically get low middle and flat out but it does work. The only thing you won't have is any electronic help as obviously the electronics ain't there. Didn't stop the last of the RD125's with the pv motor or the early TZR's from flying though.

What don't be an idiot man. The important stuff?, tea, coffee, bacon butties.

I've thought about that before but a group of bikes rolling up in a cloud of 2 smoke just doesent seem right. Or do i have altogether too much respect for the folks that are rememberd there.

Firstly, yes it most likely is a blocked jet. Second but more importantly, if you haven't already register with the TDR250 forum at tdr250.co.uk

Its a long running debate, the crux of which is. Car engine oil will be fine for a motorcycle engine. Car engine oils are not designed with any nod to clutch opperation or shear force (which ocurs in the gearbox) just compression as found in car bearings and piston clearance etc. The choice is up to you many people have their own opinions. Personally i will never save the cost of a motor with cheap oil, and before i sold her my old 600 had 30+thousand miles and needed 2 shims on the last valve check i did. Original clutch the lot. Rock synthesis 4 every 4-5k Since then the new owner has used car stuff (shudder ), its his bike now (another shudder ) and needed a clutch and 4 shims (thats twice what i needed in 30K) 5000mile later. The clutch plates were in spec on thickness it was just the deturgent and "patented fricton reducers" that shagged the plates. And he rides like a wuss compared to when she was mine. I can easily outrun him on the 250. "I don't realy go over 7k, gets a bit hectic then"

( oh crikey, dirty's on and i'm posting this....) Hole....

That is a question you could level at every motorcycle, answers on a postcard.

shape

Think you have lost out there mate, the frame apears to have its spindle firmly burried in the swinger. Oh hang on, er,

censor

politics

two

Erm don't want to upset you here but! Did you read this bit, (copied from my earlier post) The easiest way is with a heat gun, turn the case so the bearing will drop onto the bench then heat the back of the casing with the heat gun. Ally expands faster than steel and clunk out they drop easy as you like. No physical force on the cases at all.You can use one to put them in too, again heat the cases with the gun to what they call 'iron hot' ( where spit sizzles) and then take the bearings and drop them in. You don't want the bearings ice cold just ambient. Its the crank you want ice cold as that will then slide easily into said bearings. The seals also go in far easier with the cases hot, then once the whole lot is in position let it cool and all the parts will 'grow' together. Very effective method as not using any force means the bearings are really snug and true. Certainly not going to move. You put the bearings in the crankcases, then the seals, and then the crank goes in........... If your finished swearing, did you note which crank bearing is for each side as they are different, and you have fitted them the right way round......... Do i have to tippy toe from the room with extreem caution ducking metal parts and spanners.......

four

Hope you have deep pockets and patience, bits are getting harder and harder to get these days. They have always been rare bikes. If your doing it for the love of it crack on but there sure as hell aint no money in it. If your not already you really do need to register on here, TDR owners forum Surely that is the kind of thing you would find out BEFORE pulling it to bits.

Single sentance replies will get you nowt, define checking the carbs. Full strip or just looked under the tank to be sure they are still there. And why drop the needles? Has it always had the flat spot?

To be perfectly honest i used red hylomar for the case to case seal and had no issues, as for the rest of the gaskets i did as i always have, light smear of HT grease. No such thing as RTS (the current silicone gasket sealent) when these were on the build run so why shell out for it. I have had no leaks on my DT.

It just helps us help you, things like your general location, are you any good with the spanners, as you used the ubiqitous 'we' in your OP i'm guessing your relying on reinforcements at the moment. Here are a few basics, post the results. Change the plug, that is the first thing when a bike engine buggers around regardless. (don't sling the old one though) What is the old plug like, wet? black? brown tan? white? pink with invisible fairy spots? Can you be certain the choke is going on and off, i don't mean the knob moving but the actuall process, ie you need it to start and you can hear the engine change when you opperate it on and off. Welcome to the boards, if your botherd. The fact you didn't get the arse and persevered makes you ok in my book. Any tosser can give up.

Not my taste TBH but my only negative would be the engine wiring/hoses look a little random but thats being picky. That is a solid piece of work there to accomplish all the changes, well done. Now use it, expect to see it at squires The YOC annual meeting.

Er, it is. You will find a lot of forums nowadays actually vet your first 5 maybe 10 posts to make sure.... 1 You are a real person not some computer program 2 Your asking sensible questions not just rambling or stiring trouble The YOC does none of that, we basically trust that human nature being what it is the genuine folk will take the time to say hi, and speaking frankly. The tossers won't be arsed and will clear off and spoil somebody elses forum. The best analogy i have heard is this. Imagine the forum is a group of mates talking bikes in a pub, you wouldn't pile straight in and want them to tell you the answer to your problems. You would say hi and have a chat first. Same here. A lot of people on here have had the little DT's and you are asking them to go out of there way just a little to help, but not willing to go out of YOUR way to give just a little info.

Aside from a DT50m that was my very first bike, one of these was my second cost me 25quid...... Oh yea, and i do still have it 24 years later

Nah he's past caring, he got the 175 in the end because he couldn't afford them when they came out, bit like my TDR and they blew the old brit rubbish he COULD afford into the dust, either with their straight out performance or their handling.

Something to do with ferrets and warm beer? Seriously, it will cost massively more to replace all the gaskets if that bearing only lasts 6 months.