Cynic

I take it you have checked stuff like the battery, major earth connections, etc. The battery isnt actually part of the ignition systems on these so the starter will have little effect. Poor engine earth or something like is what i'm thinking. When you have the starter pressed there is too much power to allow the plug to spark, then when the button is released it tries as the energy dies out of the system. Does it have a kicker? Have you tried bumping it.

Oh, bugger , its a cr500 motor. Performance bikes long term project.

Don't want to put you off the idea but the TZR frame will really struggle to hold it together with the big thumper in it. One of the bike mags put an xt motor in a mito and that needed a LOT of bracing and damping to cancel out vibes and stop the motor twisting the frame. As well as a lot of fab work needed for the battery airbox due to the battery size and the airbox volume. If the Xt is a kicker then it won't be too bad but swapping engines in an hour. can't see it. Love to see the results if you sort it.

Well thats no fun if your over 102 you can't get any figures. I wanted to try Gengis Kahn or Mark Antony.....

Now don't shoot me here, but it is possible to put the slide in incorrectly so it stops on the peg that aligns the slide in the carb. This will give around 2/3rds throttle.

The actual minimum thickness specification on those plates is 3.6mm so the total range from new to buggerd is .4 of a millimeter. The springs , free length is 31.5mm and minimum free length should be 30.5mm Also if the plates look blued at all, esp the plain metal plates they will need replacing too as they only need to be out of true by a tiny amount to cause clutch problems. I'm not sure of the warpage on these older gearboxes but the later gearbox its 0.05 of a millimeter. So if you have the slightes cause to think they have overheated, change them. If its any comfort these clutches normally stick and require rocking to loosen them up if stood for a week or more. While its out its an easy fix. These are the people that REALLY know these bikes, i have used them myself several times. http://www.tytrials.co.uk/

Depending on year the service thickness of the plates could be either 4.0mm if its early, or 2.7 if its a later gearbox.

If it is the right length you can still fit it yourself, its only a case of dropping the sw arm. Inconvenient initially i know but the security of having a sound chain ( speaking as someone who has lost skin to a broken one) is worth the trouble.

An introduction would help. No, without most of the yz front end including yolks, with your stem etc (will knacker the steering lock too) and really no on the engine. Well anything will fit with enough brass.

So you are certain the carb is clean and the choke is working? So have fuel, and spark. This is an oldskool trick i have used in the past that may work although it normally costs a bit of skin. Get a plug you KNOW is good, gap it clean it then heat the fkr with a blowlamp till its proper hot, then stick it in the motor quick as you can and try and start it. It should give you a few clean kicks before she floods. Have you tried bumping? I'm still leaning towards the seals, one of the symptoms is being hard/impossible to start, but word of warning she may rev her spots of if she does run. Due to being lean due to the seals so be prepared. Esp if you try bump starting.

Oi not so fing genral if you don't mind i've got a 'bloody 4x4' and bloody hard it works too.

Don't take this the wrong way but try yet another plug. Cos it shouldn't do that, a plug that does is fct, simples.

Hmm, 16/49 is the stock ratio but 15/47 is close enough to stock if thats what your after. That 13t sprocket is effectively a 20%drop in gearing, no wonder she reved her spots off.

After standing for 24 years my bet is the crank seals have perished. TBH as will a lot of the other seals too. Try giving the inside of the flywheel cover a drenching in wd, that may help get her running after a fashion if it is the seals,

If you had pulled your helmet off! they may have given you a cigarette.

Many people underestimate just how vital the exhaust seal is on a 2 stroke. The intake charge does leach out into the expantion chamber and then gets drawn back as the engine fills with the next charge, if that seal is broken then you suck air and run dangerously lean. Glad you sussed it.

Its normal for an off road type bike to dive like a profesional footballer under braking, unless you hear a clonking noise indicating either hitting the bump stop or a broken spring there is nothing wrong. Stop riding it like a race bike and learn to balance the braking between the front and rear brakes, the front disk on DT's is shite anyway and fades like cheap jeans so consistent hard braking is not reccomended, you will go through pads and even disks very quickly otherwise.

Can't say i have seen anything wrong with the jets in my bikes. I would have thought 'o' rings and gaskets would be at greater risk. I thought brass was pretty much everything proof, its used widely in the flammable chemical industry AFAIK as it doesent spark when struck and easy to machine/cast.

Think banni has a need of a selik waterfall sandwich

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You really couldn't have picked 3 more different from the bunch, BMW is, much as some may not like the view too bloody dear for what it is, SV is hardly enduro, doesent really strike the soul with far off lands..... And the TDM, nice to ride although i found the pegs high being another 6ft and counting, and they are an utter bastard to work on. I still can't get past that kawasaki, twin so your not stuck flogging a dead horse trying to get some top end. Million miles to the gallon, parts everywhere as the GPZ500 ran for years. As for putting the Duke into the mix, are you actually asking seriously or just taking the piss?

Metres Per Hour

The centre stand on the RD350 rests on a big rubber stop to keep it off the exhausts, this means it hangs low, it also has a big hook shaped thing for you foot to press to use it. All this means that when you wind it on in a good corner it hits the ground or 'decks out'. I took the centre stand off the RD i had. Didn't throw it out just temp fitted it for wheel changes etc. Its big time scary when it catches the floor... As to the killer comment i was refering to the motor, you are well aware that strokers use the exhaust to create the power. The leaky exhaust, It has the same effect as a dodgy carb. The leak will make that cyl go lean and you can guess the rest. Aside from anything else it make a right mess of the front of the motor.

The half circle 'thing' is called a woodruf key and normally if they shear its due to the flywheel being loose. The other item is the advance retard unit that adjusts the spark automatically for engine speed. TBH if its a quarry bike and it causes issue lock it up in the mid position and it will be ok.

What about one of these quaks this is just an example after a 10second search on autotrader. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201139417796773/sort/pricedesc/usedbikes/cc-to/700cc/body-type/adventure/cc-from/125cc/price-to/2000/page/1/radius/1500/postcode/nn73pt?logcode=p Little bit more money but is a das friendly 500cc (bulletproof too) with luggage, good mileage and the enduro look. A transalp in the same spec/cond would be 3-4K easy.