Cynic

Contiuing the very un pc theme, Park warden walking round a lake sees a paki struggling in the water "Help i can't swim" he gasps. "Just as well"; says the warden "there's no swimming allowed in the lake" and walks on......

Should be elephant with a memory like that....

Look at the area above the crankcase filler... I'm pretty sure the pistons are the same size, just that at some point (not sure when) they changed from barrel induction to crank induction (so the piston doesent have windows). OG or whatever he is now will know for certain..

Thats it! I'll put as much time into an answer. bugger thats too much alrady.

On an XT your wasting your time unless you sort the exhaust too. Big singles generate torque, high airspeed in the carb/injection area increaces power at the expence of torque. Even with an exhaust you will not notice a great deal. If your after induction noise on the other hand so it sounds quick even though you will be slower thats different.

Nope, nick wifeys car when able otherwise its the DT, the TDR doesent even come outside till the salt is gone COMPLETELY. They joked that a TDR would rot riding past a chip shop. I'm not at all sure it was a joke judging by the thickness of the paint........

You need to put the 2 stroke in the tank not your whiskey mate. My caravan is behind the TDR in the pic i posted. A fucking great big 27ft twin axle home from home. Use it about every 6 weeks in the summer for walking, cycling, even surf weekends and the main holidays come late spring and late summer. Love it, I get 10-12 'long weekends a year plus the main holidays for the price of a crappy fortnight in a smelly shithole in spain full of pissed up brits. 2weeks in cornwall last year was a staggering 13quid a night.

?

Piss off then....

Kick a man while he's down........

Sniff, oh well should be easier now i'm over the top of that hill. Cheers

Totally agree, owned a GSX600F, had it tuned at TTS so she was knocking 90BHP (good for the time and a bloody site better than the stock 75) and for the entire time i owned it (36000mls) it had Rock Synthesis4 fully synthetic engine oils for its innards. Changed every 4500mls with the filter. In those mils i only bought 2 shims for the valve gear, she has over 45k now with her current owner and STILL on the same clutch.

So if i have got this right you have got rid of all the 'Heart pumping adrenaline machines' and kept the.....the.....the.....diesels Yeah OK the 500 thats got real money to it, and the 350 but the 250, surely the cement mixer (Mt) could have gone instead.

yep

"Only steers and q......... " according to the parade sargents in the movies.....

I think your sender is probably out then, 100 is a bit early for the fans to run, that would be more like 120. Remember the system is presurised so it can run hotter than water's boiling point of around 100. The thermostat wont open till probably 90+deg to send water to the rad. You can see 100 being a little premature from that. Sounds to me like your gague is maybe 20 degrees off. This could be down to earthing or bad connections, even a weak sender unit. Its only a problem if it bothers you, so long as you know what is 'normal' there isn't anything to worry about.

No vice

If the rads warm and the engine is warm then its most likely the gague or its wiring, my old man was a mechanic his entire working life and still calls them worry gauges. One of the switches you talk of will kick the fan in, when the bike is a lot hotter than you think is ok and the other will feed the gague. Sort which is which in the workshop manual and then (don't want to pick a CDI/electronic plug by accident) simply earth them. One should bring the fan on, the other should send the gague FSD (full scale deflection) to maximum.

A 1991 DT200Rb acording to the engine prefix. Broadly similar to a DT125 of the time. That doesent necessarily id the bike though, just the engine thats in it. you need to look at the headstock for the frame number. Even if its a motorcross bike it should still have a frame number there.

Having cut my motorcycling teeth on your bikes predecessor (the m) and having learn't a few of the gremlins. Make certain the cap its self and cap to lead connections are good, have a couple of proven plugs to hand even if they are from cars. Check the earths, esp if the frame has been re done, they can get covered. Even run a temporary one from the HT coil to the engine, (NOT the battery) if its easier for now. Disconnect the kill switch at the headlight so your sure that isn't tracking, crank the bike over a couple of times in the dark to see any sparking at the points, there should be just a little, you may catch sight of other unwanted earth tracking around the engine. Lastly, does it actually run at all?.

I'd start that again and explain properly what the problem is. The only person who understands that post is you i imagine. Is there any spark at the points? Disturbed the stator at all? Tried other plugs? Proved the wiring? Need a decent paragraph, thats all.

There is, my particular piece of expertise tells me that it is utterly impossible for a dt125 to hit 205kph EVER, thats 130mph fer chrisakes,

Nah, you will see the difference in the colour if the flid is even remotely old. Have to admit kiri's suggestion of the syringe is an improvement on my old scottoiler bottle.

I always do mine from the bottom,fill squeezy bottle with brake fluid. (fit a nipple into the top, of an old brake fluid bottle) connect pipe and squeese. Go from caliper to caliper first, then to the master cyl. Easy and reliable. Bugger that squeezing the lever malarky, every time you open the nipple you can give a biiiig long squeeze on the bottle.

Gut feeling is crank seal, thats leaned the piston charge out so its overheated the piston and siezed, may free off. May not, need to see the carnage...