Cynic

Ha Ha Ha your kidding, about 20% of the energy from the fuel actually makes the vehicle move, over half of it is lost as heat the rest in overcoming internal friction and mass. If you think about it the internal combustion engine is just a small steam engine with a steam substitute that gives a bigger bang. We are all running around on 18th century tech. Benz didn't invent the engine, Triscothic (bet i spelt that wrong) did.

You do realise that to ride 'your wife's' bike (had to be carefull there) she has to have it insured in its own right. As to others, how about an older 125, one of the yamaha twins. Or my "one day never" project of putting a 200DX motor in a DT175.

Only the outer case and the primary drive gear, the gearbox side isn't so bad as it seals to a collar (with said 'o' ring inside) so relatively it should come out easier. Maybe remove the clutch basket for a bit more wiggle room. Don't mix the seals up when you get them they look very very similar.

Must resist.............. Trying to resist............. Ahhh fuck it, "Told you so", Glad its fixed, now start a fresh thread for your brakes, get far more people looking at it then.

nope.

Yes you can do it in situ, its the bearing you have to strip the gearbox for. Haven't done it myself mind, and i'd bet it will fight you as its a good size. Did mine when the cases were split. Its a dodle then.

Prob wants to get to squires on his own this year so he's allowed himself a suitable amount of time to find his way there.....

I've heard if you ride past a chippy regular the bike will rot like a bankers concience. So no, winter riding is not gonna happen on the TDR, hell rain has me thinking twice . The DT mind, bring it on

Mine were loose due to others failing, common on TDR's if you have the wheels rebuilt its worth going up a spoke size.

I had the same on my TDR on the rear wheel and it was loose spokes due to another failing. You could only hear it on a neutral throttle (basically coasting) add power or brake and it stopped as the wheel loaded up.

Black marker pen works for me, then polish normally.

Just fix it, on my DT when i was using it in anger on the dirt i had all the breathers routed so they ran to the airbox with good inlet rubbers, i have run my DT through water deep enough to submerge the gearbox. So long as you have a can of WD handy it never left me walking.

Ha i already treat it with kid gloves, took forever to find one with those miles and that condition.

Just a conversation that i was having at work got me wondering on the thoughts here? just a discussion topic. I was argueing that the patina of use on my TDR, the paint worn by the footpegs on the frame and the slight craze in the graphics, only minor blemishes add to the bike. I think it gives it life, it has a story, like the only mark on the tank, a chip near the filler. It has led a sheltered life granted but so what, its still on the factory rear shock at 24years old. Some things like the hideously bad yellow tart up on the wheels had to go, but that aside its a beauty. Fellow at work who has a truly beautiful suzuki kettle, thinks it would be a perfect restoration to factory as its just a clean up and re coat,zink respective parts as they are in such good nick. But then it would be just another re-done bike, the very element that makes it so special would be gone. Something like Dirty's TS is brilliant and is the ressurection of basically scrap back to its former glory and a worthy restoration. But doing that to mine would be sacrilage, wouldn't it? What do you think?

When changed over, (completely and utterly stupid idea if you ask me the pump is better in every way) did you blank off the pump system properly and increace the mixture (richen it) to allow for the oil in the fuel?

First off you need to post an intro, let people know who you are. lots of people just blast in for a quick fix and clear off after 3 posts. Tat ain't fair. After that, where on earth did you get your carb balancing info?

Oh, drain the gearbox oil. You haven't grasped this. The waerpump is driven from a shaft that comes from the crank, part of the gearbox. There is a seal keeps the oil in the gearbox and the water in the cooling system. That is the seal that has gone. Once your engine has put pressure into the cooling system it has forced the water straight into the gearbox. The creamy stuff, is your gearbox oil thouroughly mixed with coolant by your gearbox internals and is as much use now in therre as fresh dog poo. It will be a real pain to get out, meths or petrol may help, you just got to keep flushing till its gone. You may have to pull the motor to do it properly.

Waterpump seal has gone, relatively easy to repair if you know one end of a spanner from another. You want to stop riding it though, and cleaning out all the creamy crap (water mixed with oil) will test your patience.

Agree with Paul, the rev counter takes its cue from the cdi, if that drops at the same time as the motor then the cdi output has gone and that means electrics. Best of luck with it they can be a bastard to trace, could be as simple as chafing on the wire to the kill sw, the loom by the headstock could be a target as well as the coils, myself i'd start with the pick up coil and work from there. The good news is its getting more frequent so it should be easier to find.

I thought the same when i got mine, really its just a printout of whats online, more cost cutting penny pinching. The bit that always gets me is all this stuff thats online, one virus and its all fucked. A nasty one killed our PC over the weekend. What if one gets into the government stuff. That Nat West snafu, who's to say thats not a virus/hacker their keeping quiet?

Full clean of the carbs, simple as that. It runs with substitue fuel and nealy ran after the sort of clean. No more thinking needed, you have to strip em down and clean out the fuel residue inside.

You believe right they were building them right up untill around 2009/10 primarily in asia and australia. The DT1 or Dt250 was a bit of a lump and didn't sell well. As far as it goes the lc and mx engines are pretty much the same, the lc barrel fits the mx cases and the RH outer cover had a water pump built in running from the oil drive. The big difference is in the porting in the barrel its self as i understand it. Much more advanced and the piston/bore tolerances are finer as well as better carb set up means a much better bike to ride..

Sorry had computer issues, so its a vacume pump? Whatever if you cannot prove thepump yet then yes the carbs as already said are going to need a clean. Take your time and don't interchange parts between carbs do one at a time and have the digital camera handy and take lots of pics so you don't get lost putting it back together.

Just a thought but when was the last time it had a full decoke, as far as cheap tuning goes thats about as good as it gets. If the pipes are choked and the cylinders are mucky that will kill the performance.

Yes but it won't be causing this as the bike hasn't run yet. It only causes issue when the fuel is drawn from the tank faster than air can replace it. Your next step is to prove the fuel pump or bypass it and use some sort of bottle with fuel in it to gravity feed the carbs. Till then we cannot move on.