Cov_AL

No problem - welcome to the forum btw...

Oh, you've had problems with that L-bracket too? I'm also on my second one - I think the reg/rec was an after-thought when they designed these bikes...

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17520

I got soaked on the way up friday evening - but came back this morning and barely saw a drop!

As I said However much it costs - when you've got a flat and your 30 miles from home you'll wish you'd got something - and it's not just one punchture I know someone (using ultraseal) that pulled two screws and a nail out of his tyre - before heading round france/spain... pick whichever -

Yeah - it all stays wet. I've got tubed, and have got ultraseal in them... If there's a chance it'll stop me being stuck by the side of the road - I'm in! Al long as you let the dude at your garage know beforehand - he should be alright about it.

yes - it is worth having. Screw/nail it'll do the job on tubeless tyres (on tubed it's less effective) ultraseal/tyre gunk/tyre weld it's all similer stuff... look around for prices - or you can buy the stuff on ebay and DIY.

Haha yeah! Lube all over the tyre FFS! They talk a hell of a lot about tensile strength as well - when was the last time you heard of a chain in good condition breaking?

OoOoOh! I'd just figured I should eat more carrots... Hmmm, might have to find one of those 80/100w bulbies

Alright moneybags - mine are worn day in day out as well though...

Why do you need a new one? what's wrong with the original?

Just wondering - Why does it have to be a motorcycle specific rucksack?

Is it just me that thinks £90 for a pair of gloves is a bit much??? I thought my Biker gloves were pricey at £62... (my first pair - £10, second pair £15, ^third^)

ACF50 or Rost off

I tend to go for a quick spary with Mucoff then use a "garden plant spray" to rinse it off It's low pressure - so won't do any damage and speeds up the whole process... then a quick oil/WD40 of pivot points and a bit of ACF50 on any rust prone areas (+ a bit on the exhaust as it makes it come up looking ACE!) Anti Corrosion Formula 50 - quite differant from Water Displacement 40.

Sorry to be pedantic - but I'd spent the evening with a pedant and it must have worn off on me...

Have you checked the amperage of the battery? have you cleaned the contacts? Try asking your local bike shop or Google how to test a starter motor (even cheaper than buying the wrong starter!) You don't want to waste money buying a starter, if the problem is caused by something else...

Hiya Steve, have you tried spraying a bit of WD40/contact cleaner on the switch electrics? (open up the switch housing to do this) I've had a little problem like this with my 650 - the hi-beam indicator on the clock would come on when the switch was on dipped-beam, but i only had side lights actually working. A bit of WD in the right place sorted it... I'd give it a go before spending money on a relay.

I think you should realise that a roof box and extra weight RAISES fuel consumption...

I've got an Oxford stormex - which has a soft, heat resistant lining and loops so you can lock it onto your bike or lock your bike up through it... bit pricey - but it's the best! I wouldn't use anything else!!!

jfgi http://www.tw-parts.com/macbig2k1/doc/tw125-1999.pdf

rost off or acf-50. spray on every day for a few days - by which point you'll have the welder.

Extracting rusted exhaust studs is a f##kin' pain in the butt - by the look of yours, I'd avoid it if at all possible. However - I would advise you to get some anti-corrosion spray onto them! "ACF-50" or "Rost off" are quite good - Spray a little onto the rusted parts regularly and it'll start to reverse the corrosion (making it easier for the poor dolt that ends up taking pipes off eventually) (it'll smoke a bit when the exhaust heats up - but don't worry about that, it's normal)

There is a Royal star as well - 1300 (79-cubic-inch / 1294cc)