JimR

Hi Jay, to the forum could you say exactly which year V50 you have as there are different issues over the model years Regards Jim

Sorry thats not me, I was at work when this person was born .... or perhaps I was born aged 16 ? and Rundle is not my surname and I don't live in London. But I have now signed up for facebook so lets see if you can find the real me Regards Jim

Hi , I ask that because the FS1SE did not come into being in the UK until the 1980's and from memory the frame and engine numbers were prefixed with the code 5A1 and it would appear the bike in the photo is just a 1977 FS1E with later SE parts fitted and some bad mods to the handle bars & forks. Regards Jim

Hi Alex, the oil filter is set between the front exhaust pipes so it is very exposed to road dirt, which tends to corrode the bolt to the filter bowl. As the bolt has a small head in relation to the size of the bolt it tends to 'round off' unless you give it a 'shock' first and use a good quality socket to undo it. As where to get a filter from on a Sunday I could not suggest anywhere bar the breakers in Upton Upon Severn Worcestershire as I know they stock them and are open Sunday till mid day but not knowing where you are this is the best I can do Regards Jim

Alex ok the XJ600 will need some 10W40 motor oil from memory 3200 cc (3.2 L) and a http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=KN-144 should do fine for the filter ... just watch undoing the filter bolt Regards Jim

Hi Steve, I pressed alt + F4 and unix gave a cryptic response ... guess I should get around to to using a GUI and in may make more sense ... Regards Jim P.S PM on the way

so you have an 88 pure sport FZ thou ? or an FZR thou if the former I could rebuild the box .. the later engine I have no manuals to work from ... but why is the box totaled lets have some more info regards Jim

Surely that makes the bike illegal for you to use but hey no worries until you get to the point that you dont know what to do down to your lack of experience and end up a bit poorly .. but I guess you would think that wouldn't happen to you ... like I did in the 70's main difference is now there are too many car/bike/lorries/buses on the road now so a slight mistake at speed could cost dearly ... I can see the need for speed being young but err on the side of sense run the bike within its limits ! Regards Jim

looking at the pics they show non CV carbs .... fitting carbs that are pulled open via a cable rather than vacuum may cause you many problems i.e. doing the splitter cable from 1 to 4 ! I would also suggest using that form of carb (if you get over the cable problems) will be different if not impossible to set up ... sorry to pee on the bonfire but I guess there is somewhere you can get a bank of carbs from at a reasonable price. Regards Jim

Hi, what tests have you done ? I would guess the following :- DC voltage check across the battery which should show 14v + @ 3k if this is good a new battery is needed stage 2 : this depends a bit if the bike is a US or europe model if europe check the v/r ,rectifier by testing between the red & the 3 whites (on the unit) for diodes i.e swing in one direction & not the other with the meter set @ 20 ohms and the same being true with the black to the whites and of course the red to black. US models have the lights on the whole time so may test different refit the old air box and give the old girl a run as long as the motor is sound there is a fair chance the bike will run ok Regards Jim

the ignition timing was going to be the second post where I think the problem lies !!! but back in 82 or so I trashed 2 compression testers from non starting two strokes ... the one was quite funny ... as the test was done the oil came up the guage and attacked the paper readout (like a lorry tacho) there after it failed to work ... the old man after I trashed £200's worth of plant was not happy the next one I trashed was supplied via Yamaha which in turn had the oil destroyed the guage ... but I guess there is a diifference between hobby & commercial use my observations were on the latter & not the former. I would guess tho 150 psi would warm the thumb nicely Regards Jim

who uses it any way ? regards Jim

from what part of the world did that come from ? Regards Jim

Hi' for sure its not it appears to have Fantic Motor chopper forks and and an FS1E base rather than an FS1 base but I could imagine that in other parts of the world the FS1E could be used as a base as the UK restrictions would not apply. Regards Jim

Hi, no it is not a CAT it is a collector box so you could do straight thro pipes but I would guess you will spend a long time with the carbs to get the bike to run right, dont forget the engine will need back pressure from the exhaust to function correctly and 4 straight thro pipes will not do that a better bet (if the exhaust is knackered) is to replace it with a a 4 into 1 system to get the required back pressure (and minimize the amount of adjustment to the carbs) most UK 4 into 1's ran out of the box. But 4 straight thro pipes may give you problems and you may spend some time jetting the carbs to suit ... very time consuming .... wait till you have the carbs off the first time .... well over an hour then the re jet may not be right and the carbs are off again ... it's up to you but I would just get a 4 into 1 Regards Jim

Hi dont forget compression testing a 2 stroke is not relieable. given this bike has a striped cylinder stud the may indicate a lack of compression but they tended to start and 'pop' thro the head gasket with the cylinder head not torqued to spec. Back in the day the YB suffered other ways with running/starting problems, The major one was incorrect ignition timing .. if this was too far out you got no spark and if you were lucky to get a spark the plug glazed/fouled within no time, hence clean plug & no spark.. I would not lend anyone a compression tester to do a 2 stroke as all that oil mixed with the fuel will get into the tester & ruin it & I used the finger on the plug hole method (if your finger got hot/blown off compression is sound). Regards Jim

Hi, you need to hit the barresl in the 4 directions with a rubber mallet if this does not work goto plan 2 I'll fill in plan 2 if plan one doesnt work the problem you have is the dowels in the cylinders/barrels have some intermetalic corroision and just need some brute force & ignorance Regards Jim

hmm an FJ what in europe FJ1100/1200 etc was a normally asperated motor and we had the XJ650 Turbo but I guess in your part of the world there could be differences so the model code could help ! Regards Jim

Hi, the rear of the front fender hitting the exhaust system sounds like you are having a bent mot done (the repairer charging you and does very llittle). Take into account the front fender should 'miss' the exhaust pipe by a good few inches & with leaking seals it would indicate some major problems. but get the mot done and pay for another else where just to insure your not riding a bent bike ! Regards JIm

in a word nope .. if the bulb wattage is changed you will get either a faster or slower flash depending on which way you went if the circuit is correct (or perhaps just a ticking noise dependant on how far the bulbs are away from the can, but with modern cans that tend to adjust their flash rate irrespective of the bulbs connected I would guess thats not a problem. Just check out the wires a bit more Regards Jim

Hi, check that the brown or green wires are not shorted easy done when bolting the lamps on. as a test connect one at a time to work out which lamp is causing the short then work on that one ! Regards Jim

He charges .. so much !!!! best go with the original poster

Hi, just think what you wrote it may not suit UK people but I thought your coment to be very quaint ! Regards Jim

Well it could be just an XS400 they were well odd to set up, in the UK as they tended to sit in crates as no one wanted them until the SE days (1980) so its correct that the older bikes will never run too well and there will be struggles getting a 2A2 to run correctly (now a few years on) but as a "fix" setting the dwell & timming correctly tended to make them run ok Regards Jim

Hi looked at the data this may work for some parts of the world but tbh the UK had some what different model codes for the same models ! example :- an AT2 had the model code AT2 and later for example the 78 RD50 had a model code of 2L8 and then the FS1 had a model code of 2G0 ..RD200 had the code of 1E8 which does not marry up with the data from your link but no worries Yamaha kit will differ all over the globe Regards Jim