JimR

Hi A Morris, this sounds like a bad earth ! Regards Jim

Hi WF, I would guess that using a calculator to work out is a bit naff ... in the flintstone days the oil was added to the fuel via the machine/pump at the fuel station .. there was very little info to tell u if the machine/pump had any oil in it or was calibrated correctly so you may go to one fuel station & switch the pump to 50:1 and get delivered 0 oil .. a few mins later an engine lock up !!! or you may get double the oil and end up with a whisker !!! perhaps it would be also good practice to check the minimum pump stroke rather than pushing the cable wheel back to deliver more oil than is required. Regards Jim

Hi DirtyDT, there is no need to do that .. if the pump is bled to the bleed screw when the engine is running the oil will run up the small bore pipe quickly but to give peice of mind add some oil to the petrol tank in order for the process to happen. There is small chance you will be able to work out if the oil pump is working by using the kickstart (with a running engine & a good pump the oil will be to the carb in seconds). You may want to add 25:1/50:1 ratio to the fuel tank as when the pump kicks in the engine may be 'over oiled' Regards Jim

Hi Dave, just looked back thro the pervious posts and for some reasaon the site lift MM rather than 0.1 mm and 0.15 mm Regards Jim

mines cheaper !!! regards Jim

Thats not drastic .. I've had alsorts of tuning methods ... like 10 base gaskits fitted, ½ the piston cut away, exhaust/transfer ports attacked with a cutting stone etc , reed valve stops bent so much the reed breaks & ends up distroying the bore & piston .... the list goes on !!! but as you say having the PV system working along with an exhaust of the correct dimensions will do most 125 owners & there is no need to go 'over the odds' for little gain Regards Jim

Hi A Morris, I would guess you should just add the 'jump' battery to the original battery terminals & not straight to the starter motor (that comes later). Just apply the battery to the original connections & if you have the same response you have, perhaps, discounted the battery. Then remove the starter motor from th bike and connect a battery directly to it .. if it spins you have engine problems but as this engine is quite a reliable one, unless abused/neglected, I would doubt the problem lies there ... Regards Jim

Hi Hog, from the vid sound track it does sound like your TZR is a 'little' tired' on the the top end of the engine ( the mechanical noise at idle), if the bike is long term it may be worth taking the cylinder off and inspecting that & the piston & replacing the worn parts before something fails in service. if not run it till it breaks !!! But the chassis looks good for the bikes age ! Regards Jim

Hi Sleepyk, The correct repair kit part number for the rear master cylinder will be 1J3-W0042-50-00 or 1J3-20000-50 try here http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y...0042-50-00.html for a replacement. Regards Jim

Hi Janey, I start my CPC later this year and think its a good idea (my first 2 days worth are banksman training & Tacho training and perhaps a thrid on defect reporting & assesment) for it to moved to normal drivers as well as profesional ones. this may make some drivers aware that they dont signal right when going straight on etc.and of course in the bike world this may educate the 'all the gear ... no idea' boys & Girls that are out there. I drive a dust cart ( I know you all hate um) & TBH there are a few car/motorcycle drivers/riders that need to be made aware that lagre vehicles need more room to turn i.e you straddle both lanes to do a right turn & some thing either is in the target area of the rear on the left of the large vehicle or someone rekons ... lorry/bus driver twat doesn't know where their going I'll try and get up the ½ right hand lane ... and so it goes on !!! Regards Jim

Ok who wants Oliver Cromwell's job then ? I couldn't find the civilwarsrus web site so I guess its down to you Blades_2 Regards Jim

Thats good just take your time ... and explore every hole (like if you were in a brothal ) and make sure there well clean ! Regards Jim

Hi Pete, the best option is to buy a bigger bike, as there is not too much pimping stuff for the SR125 but perhaps a trawl around the net may find (if they exist) an SR175/150 produced for other markets (other than the UK that is !) With the chassis work you may find it possible to graft the front forks from a disc braked bike, along with the wheel to give some better brakes up front. Regards Jim

Hi A. Morris this sounds like a battery or starter motor !!! do as advised try to jump it from another battery to discount the starter switch/soleniod & motor Regards Jim

Hi Mark, this sounds a bit odd as you should have the 'spare wiires' in order to plug in the old type ypv servo & if you do have the old stator fitted everything should work fine unless the loom has been hacked to allow newer switches etc to be fitted. Perhaps its time to do some 'homework' to find out which bit & from which year you have. Regards Jim

Hi Dave, with the stand problem I would guess a new original one will fix the problem ... unless the frame lug is worn I dont remeber the XS400 being a parallel twin (in the British sense 180 crank rather than a 360) if it was the bike may now have come to little bits (Brit twin owners know what I mean) but its good to see an oldie can still do the course ! Regards Jim

Hi Bob, I would guess Paul is perhaps on the right track but a loose cam chain on an SR125 would also give a rattle from the engine at idle (do you suffer from that ?) Another point to look at is if the engine is loose in the frame, this would cause the drive chain to rattle against the chain guard & also give the correct chain tension when the bike is stationary. another thing to check is if the (naff) chain guard is not warped as on 'over run' the chain will flap about and perhaps hit the chain guard ! Regards Jim

The old one's are the best Regards Jim

Hi Aaron, sounds like you have either a worn case or clutch gear (the bit that lives in the case) or both ... as long as you adjusted the clutch at the bottom end correctly.... and take into account that the clutch gear could be assembled and/or installed incorrectly Regards Jim

Hi Drewps how droll Regards Jim

Hi, if you invert the slides (needles facing upwards) & fold the diaphram to from a well and fill with petrol if the petol leaks out the diaphrams have problems .. As Drewpy mentioned it would also be good to methodically go through the rest of the carbs ! Regards Jim

Hi Alex, first off I would get the oil pump issues sorted (which may be just a case of bleeding and/or adjusting the minum pump stroke or at worst a new pump). If you dont wish to fix the pump add oil to the fuel tank at the ratio of 20:1 . With an engine seize the piston & cylinder stand a good chance of being damaged which may be fixed by boring the cylinder to a larger size & fitting a larger piston & ring set to suit the larger bore, this damage is most likley you engine noise. Regards Jim

OK, perhaps the government/EU may think that this should be rolled out to all drivers under the guise of 'continuing driver training' at current costs this may make driving to costly for some (A Government wish come true perhaps ? Less stuff on the road & greater use of public transport) and would risk a fine etc for continuing to to drive or just give up.. The current CPC may just be the tip of the iceberg ! Regards Jim