YPVS TONE

What is the level like on the dipstick / sight glass ? Does the manual say Total amount 1.2L ? If so this is usually the amount it takes after a complete engine strip. Does the manual give an amount for periodic oil change as this is the amount you want when changing the oil. Tony

Is this what you're after ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-AIR-FILTER-1977-XS750-1J7-14451-00-00-/111035826228#ht_70wt_721 Depends how much you want to pay Tony

I know the early LC only had 32mm fork diameters compared to the YPVS models which went up to 35mm. If you can find a top yolk of an 83/84 LC2 this may work as these had 35mm fork stanchions like yours but were fitted with conventional bars. Maybe worth asking here as I'm sure someone will tell you if this has been done before http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ultimatelccrazy/ Tony

Certain the standard sprockets for the Thndercat are 15 Tooth Front and 47 Tooth Rear but you may want to remove the front sprocket cover to confirm. A lot of aftermarket suppliers will give you the option of going up or down from standard on the front sprocket.

I would say they are both wrong for an AS3. The tank looks like a later RD125 one and the seat looks aftermarket. Photo of AS3 here : http://www.ziizii.com/bike/bikepics/as3.jpg

Just downloaded a copy of the owners manual from the Yamaha UK site and it gives a list of the bulbs on page 8-3 and lists the headlight bulb as a halogen type 12V 60/55w and the other bulbs by just the Voltage and wattage. Tony

The one I've listed will fit the "C" prefix plugs which is what you have and also the "D" prefix plugs. Was your old plug cap angled like I've listed ?

Can't you unscrew the old one from the old HT lead and screw it onto the new lead ? If not than this one should be ok if the old cap is angled like this http://www.brandedbiker.co.uk/NGK-Motorcycle-Spark-Plugs/NGK-VD05F-Motorcycle-Spark-Plug-Cap-Black-5068 Tony

With the engine running, turn the pump pulley by hand to pump more oil and if you remove the oil pipe onto the carb you should see oil pumping out the end of the pipe. Obviously don't leave the pipe disconnected for more then a few seconds as you won't have oil going to the engine. Also worth making sure the system is bled ok. Make sure you have plenty of two stroke oil in the oil tank. With the engine stopped remove the small cross head screw on the side of the pump which usually has an orange washer under it and let the oil run out for a couple of minutes. Replace the screw and with engine running turn the pump pulley by hand to pump more oil to bleed the pipe from the pump to the carb.

I've got a Supplementary service manual for the RD125DX that covers engine/frame number 1E7-250101 and on that says : Number and size of Balls in steering head Upper Race 19 pcs 1/4 in Lower Race 19 pcs 1/4 in Hope this helps. Tony

I think you will find that the oil level warning light should only come on as a system check when you have the ignition on and when you push the start button. Once started the light should go out and stay out unless of course the oil level is low. Do you know when the oil was last changed ? or it could be a sticking or faulty oil level switch.

If you're checking the level with the bike on the side stand that is probably why. You need to check the oil level with the bike on level ground and with the bike held upright.

Looks like it has a 1985 F1 engine in a later F2 frame according to this if you select the details in the boxes half way down the page http://www.rd350lc.net/pageIDENTIFICATION.htm

Does it have a disc on the rear ? If so have you stil got plenty of friction material left on the pads or have they worn down to the metal and scored the disc ?

If your using the standard size sprockets and length chain and you've run out of adjustment then it sounds like the chain and sprockets and worn out and it;s Not advisable to take links out. As mervin has suggested check the tension with you sitting on the bike as most chains tighten up when you compress the suspension as the chain will be at it's tightest point with the front sprocket centre, swinging arm pivot and rear axle centre are all in line. The chain slack printed in your owners manual should allow for this. Most trail bikes have quite a bit of slack to allow for the rear suspension compressing and if you look at some pictures of motocross bikes the chain seems to be virtually hanging off and it always amazes me how they don't come off the sprockets. What chain lube are you using? as I've found that the wax type ones don't seem to get into the pins and rollers where it's needed and i'd only use a wax type to go over a normal chain lube to help stop the normal lube throwing off.

Seem to remember the XT250 was only a 6 volt system so lights only worked with engine running. Does the ignition switch have just an on/off position or is there a position you turn to for the lights or is there a on/off switch on the LH handlebar switch.

It always seemed to me to be the ones that were looking at you were the ones that pulled out. I just got into the routine of if I saw a car coming up to a junction in front I would automatically ease off the throttle so if they did pull out you had half a chance of avoiding them.

Seem to remember reading if a car goes to pull out always steer to go in front of them as the majority of times they will see you and stop dead. So looks like you did the right thing here.

The neutral light is earthed via the blue wire when the gearbox selector is in the neutral position via a spring loaded plunger in the switch or selector drum and is linked to the oil light to come on when in neutral as a bulb check.

Do you have power when you turn the ignition on but with the engine stopped for the horn and indicators? If so remove the LH side engine cover (not sure if you have to remove the gear lever as well on the DT125R) and check to see if the single Blue wire is connected to the neutral switch just below the front sprocket. If it is unscrew the wire from the switch and touch the wire to the crankcase with the ignition on. If the lights come on it's probably a faulty neutral switch.

It sounds like you have a small piece of dirt between the tapered float valve and seat if you didn't take the carb off. Try turning the fuel tap to off, unscrew the float bowl drain screw and drain the float bowl until fuel stops coming out. Do the drain screw back up and turn the fuel tap back on. Sometimes this is enough to flush the dirt from the valve seat. Try it again if it doesn't work first time.

As nayruf has said the quantity i.e 750ml is the amount to refill after you have drained the old oil out. Should have said it's also best to drain the oil out after a run so the oil is warm enough to get all the old oil out and also helps it drain out quicker. As you and nayruf have said check it after you have run the engine to settle the oil. I know on the old RD200's which had a similar engine to yours after you refilled the oil with the quantity on the side case the oil would come right up to the filler hole but once run the level dropped as the oil equalised between the cases.

Hi LS2 Just above the "Pour transmission oil through the oil filler in quantity marked in relief on the right hand side of the crankcase cover" it says "Motor oil : SAE 10W30 Recommended oil : 750cc (0.8 US qt) " in the manual I sent you. If you look in the vicinity of the oil filler on the right hand case you will probably find 750cc stamped on it. 750cc is the same as 750ml which is usually the amount you replace after you drain out the old oil. Usually to just check the transmission oil you check with the bike upright on the main stand, unscrew the oil filler/dipstick, wipe it clean then just rest it on the filler hole without screwing it in, take it out and check the oil mark which should be between the marks at the bottom of the dipstick. Remembering to screw the oil filler/dipstick back in if OK. Hope his makes sense. Tony

Possible that the clutch plates have stuck together. Try putting the bike in gear with the engine off, pull the clutch lever in and try gently rocking the bike to and fro. Sometimes this is enough to free them off. Or you could try putting the bike on the centre stand if it has one so the rear wheel is off the ground, put the bike in gear, pull the clutch lever in ,start the bike and try dabbing at the rear brake while still holding the clutch in. Be carefull though in case the bike rolls forward off the stand and the bike shoots off. If this doesn't work you will have to drain the oil and strip the clutch.

The SR250 Was officially imported here in the UK. Quite a popular bike with the Lady's as it had a low seat height. The data I have for the UK spec bike is. SR250 1980 - 1983 Valve clearance set on TDC on the compression stroke with a Cold engine. Intake Valve 0.05mm - 0.10mm or 2 - 4 thou Exhaust Valve 0.12mm - 0.17mm or 5 - 7 thou