Shakesbeer Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 I came across several problems, so I offer my solution. If it doesn't work for you - don't rape it!!! Find another way! 1. After servicing the carburettors I can't roll the throttle to the end Solution: In my case I have tightened the "screwy thingy" that holds the air filters (sport filters on my bike, not a filter box) at angle. The screwy thingy must NOT interfere with the throttle gadget!!! 2. Sport air filters falling Solution: In my case I have overtightened them! You must screw just enough so that they don't fall. Overscrewing results in immediately or later, caused by vibrations, falling of the filters. 3. Screwing the gas-tank Solution: It mustn't be screwed to the end. Just put your index finger (or other if it can fit) under the tank-screws. When you feel the bolts, holding the tank to the frame, aligne with the frame stop screwing! If you overscrew you'll squeeze the rubber vibrations isolators and the bolts thread will be destroyed. Then it takes half a day to remove the destroyed bolts. 4. Gas gauge overturned and don't want to come back Solution: Fill the tank to the top. Rev the engine to the end. 5. Isolating the anti-dive system Solution: Remove all the brake liquid. Remove the banjo-bolts from the calipers and the anti-dive. Mount the single banjo-bolts (from the anti-dive) to the calipers. Fill the anti-dive holes with 10mm 1.25 pitch bolts. N.B. I did it because my anti-dive was leaking. I don't advise to isolate or to not isolate the anti-dive system! The choice is yours! 6. Engine stops when switching from Neutral to First gear Solution: Get the bike on center-stand. Put down your side-stand. There is a switch, that is pushed by the side-stand. Put up the side-stand. If the switch doesn't come out pull it by hand. Apply WD-40, then push and pull it several times. Apply chain-spray or other lubricant then push and pull it several times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakesbeer Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 My right boot is all in oil! - Either the engine is spilling oil or much more probably the clutch slave cylinder is kaputt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cragv Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 4. Gas gauge overturned and don't want to come back Solution: Fill the tank to the top. Rev the engine to the end. Gday, thanks for the info. Can you give me more explanation on what you mean by "Rev the engine to the end"? Do you mean open the throttle and let the tacho climb to redline when riding, or free-revving without any gears engaged (which I don't like the sound of!)? What's meant to happen here exactly...? Thanks for your time (if you're still around) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cragv Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Hi! The gas gauge on the FJs is driven by an electrical cable running under the tank. Now I can't remember the exact route of that cable but you can easily find it out yourself. The cable is running very close to the cylinder heads so the pistons moving up and down interfere with it and make the gauge tremble, especially in high rpm (electro-magnetism). The first time I repaired my overturned gauge was when I was revving the engine while rapidly downshifting. I guess the electric interference caused by the rapid moving pistons is so great that it can actually turn the gauge back. An interesting theory just came to my mind: I guess that this problem and the trembling of the gauge can be eliminated, using Faraday cage. If you put the cable in a metal enclosure (using for example tinfoil) it just may work. I cannot guarantee that any of the above is 100% true, but I think it's worth to try. Cheerz!! Orlin on a `1985 FJ1100 in Sofia Bulgaria Thanks a lot for that info - you've given me the inspiration to look into this further. I really appreciate your time & reply Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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