Posted May 8, 20186 yr Hi Guys Relatively new to the forum and VERY new to working on my bike...but trying to learn... So I was trying to remove my exhaust over the weekend to spray it (Matt Black).... The issue is that the bolts are well and truly rusted tight.... I sprayed them with WD40 and left them for about 20 mins for it to penetrate....then tried to remove the bolts... All you experienced guys know what's coming next no doubt.... One bolt snapped.....the other rounded....Grrrrrrr Soooooooooo.......what do I do? I am assuming I will need to drill the snapped one and cut and drill the rounded one but wont drilling wreck the inside thread that the bolts screw into? Do I have to rethread it? Thanks in advance guys.... Edited May 8, 20186 yr by SirQuej
May 9, 20186 yr First get your self some proper penetrating fluid such as PlusGas, WD40 is not what you need for this. Depending on your skill level you could weld a nut onto the remains of the bolts, then once the PlusGas has been applied a few times, use heat to free them up. Alternatively google Easy Out bolt extractors. If you just try to drill them out you will more than likely damage the thread and then would have to use Helicoils or threaded inserts to repair.
May 9, 20186 yr I agree with the above. I have welded nuts to knackered exhaust studs to get them out. If you don't have a welder maybe you have a friend who does. Dan.
May 9, 20186 yr Author Thanks Guys. Welding is somewhat out of my skill range at the moment...lol I'll have a look at the Easy Out bolt extractors as you suggest. If I do end up having to drill, can they be rethreaded with a tap and die set?
May 9, 20186 yr Moderator no to easy out, if they snap your in deep shit. they are hardened steel and very brittle. only way is spark erosion which is an engine strip to take to engineers your gonna have to pay someone to do something if you can't get a welder, although they are really cheap to buy and with practise easy to use. I've drilled my snapped studs out but had to use reverse cobalt drill bits as the steel work hardens due to heat cycling. Unless you know what you are doing I'd advise to get someone to do it. I made an alloy template to guide the drill bit straight and to correct depth.
May 13, 20186 yr It also goes without saying, that if you do weld it, don't forget to remove the fuel tank and store it well away from the welder, as molten metal/sparks and petrol fumes have a unhappy relationship!! if you are successful in the stud removal then putting in new studs with a bit of "Copperease" may well stop then seizing again. having said that sometimes it can be so successful that they unscrew and fall out! if however, drilling the studs out is the end result then you can 'helicoil' the holes (threaded inserts) and put in new studs. i did that to my DT head. Where abouts are you? you may find someone willing to help. Edited May 13, 20186 yr by NE0
May 13, 20186 yr 3 hours ago, NE0 said: It also goes without saying, that if you do weld it, don't forget to remove the fuel tank and store it well away from the welder, as molten metal/sparks and petrol fumes have a unhappy relationship!! ....and the battery, remove the battery
May 13, 20186 yr 19 minutes ago, jimmy said: ....and the battery, remove the battery Ditto!!.. otherwise .................................it's frying tonight!!! (and for those thinking outside the box...NO.......it doesn't charge them up!!!) Edited May 13, 20186 yr by NE0
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