Rectifier's job

[DT RE Chris]

I get what the rectifier does (AC-DC) but does ALL the DC power go the the battery FIRST or does it have two DC outputs with one going to the battery and one for the lights? 

Basically I have all lights working when running but no charge at the battery, so was thinking either a connection fault or the rectifier has failed, ?

 

I've not looked at the rectifier so not sure how many pins are on it yet.

 

[slice]

If your getting no charge to the battery then it's dead mate, the bike should start if the battery is charged but it will affect the electronics as your running on A/C voltage but your battery needs D/C voltage to charge, try sounding the horn when it's running, it takes a lot of power from the battery if it's feeble then your not charging properly or at all. Does it start ok? and does it need to run at higher than normal revs? But to answer the first part of your question NO not all the power goes to the battery your ignition and coils run on DC direct from the generator.

[Cynic]

16 hours ago, DT RE Chris said:

I get what the rectifier does (AC-DC) but does ALL the DC power go the the battery FIRST or does it have two DC outputs with one going to the battery and one for the lights? 

Basically I have all lights working when running but no charge at the battery, so was thinking either a connection fault or the rectifier has failed, ?

 

I've not looked at the rectifier so not sure how many pins are on it yet.

 

On the Yam 2 strokes its a little complicated, the engine generates all the electric it needs for the coils and cdi on its own. Entirely electrically separate.

The charging is like a lot of others, ac is generated this is piped out to the regulator rectifier, this is then clipped to dc and sent to the battery and any dc circuits like indicators/brakes and the full fat ac signal goes to the headlight.

Have you checked the charging voltage at the battery, if it is zero then the unit may well be dead (barring connection issues) normally lights and stuff will go pop at the same time as the voltage becomes erratic.

[DT RE Chris]

It's actually  (dare I say it) an Aprilla sr50, not mine but just said I'd look at it for someone. 

 It starts no problem after charging from the 240v mains and lasts for a few days.

 I checked the voltage at the battery when running and its no different to when it's not running, so I was thinking either a connection fault or the rectifier? 

[Cynic]

Ah, so the am6 engine?. Those rectifier/reg units are not particularly good, the stators  fail too. Good news is you can replace both for peanuts compared to other bikes, simple job too if you have the puller. Just remember to use a soldering iron on the stator screws to break the Loctite or they WILL strip. 

[DT RE Chris]

So I was under the impression that 3 wires came from the generator and went into the rectifier and then to the battery, but looking at a wiring diagram(see pic) it appears there's a wire that runs from the generator straight to the battery, surely this would be an AC wire or does the generator produce DC as well?  i'm confused

 

[Cynic]

Pic is no good. Doesent work.

[DT RE Chris]

http:

[Cynic]

That's a redirect to a sodding ransomeware file.

Thx for that. NOT.

[Cynic]

It may well have infected every pc you have connected to, check your system.

[slice]

MESSAGE TO MODERATORS, IT MIGHT BE AN IDEA TO DELETE THE POST ABOVE CYNICS AS IT SEEMS TO BE A WORM. COULD INFECT ALMOST ANYONE ON HERE PLEASE GET RID OF IT A.S.A.P. For info it is the 4th one from DT RE Chris.

[Cynic]

Already have slice, that link is incomplete. Will delete it all just in case.

Had to run a full system scan afterwards. My antivirus quarantined it and I have deleted it. Hopefully I will have no ill effects, have changed important  passwords and such just in case.

Have made the site owner aware too aware too.

[slice]

Thanks mate, surprised it don't happen more often.

[DT RE Chris]

??? the page worked fine for me, I have Kaspersky and no threats detected, just googled Aprilla sr50 wiring diagram and that's what came up,  I tried several times just uploading one from my desktop but it just kept saying the file was too big so I had to find a link.

Sorry if its caused any problems, it really wasn't my intention.

[Cynic]

Its what happens on some file hosting sites. The worm may have been making it too big.

If you had been a 1 post wonder I would have locked your ip to protect the forum but these things happen. It may have been embedded in the image or just came along when I clicked the link from another source. Who knows why these wankers do it. Yes ok have a crack at banks and such but us little people, slime.

Don't sweat it.

I don't have anything on my pc I cannot reload (lesson learned after my hard drive corrupted all by its self) and all my important passwords have changed so no worries.

[DT RE Chris]

Pretty sure this ones safe  

So it looks like the ignition switch is wired on the same circuit as the battery feed, the ignition must work as the engine runs but no feed to the battery, would that suggest the generator coils are ok on this circuit and maybe just a connection break to the battery, or have I miss understood the diagram?

 

By the way I've replaced the rectifier and there was no change.

[Cynic]

Assumption is a dangerous game. The ig switch is actually 2 sometimes 3 and can be more. Switches in one. 

One part earths the ig when you sw off. The other disconnects the +12.

Follow the wires from Terminal 8 on the rectifier and from Terminal 5 on the generator and it should make sense. That is the wiring in question.

[DT RE Chris]

I will do a continuity test on that circuit.

 i'm a little unsure on how to test if the generator coil is giving out enough voltage, obviously I know i'm looking for AC but which numbers on the generator connector block would I place my multimeter prongs to to test it, on 4+5 together? or do I put the earth prong to the battery earth terminal and positive prong to 4+5 individually?

Also what kinda reading should I get?

Thanks in advance

[Cynic]

You wont have the kit to test the rectifier that uses some electrical mumbo jumbo to work. 

Test across 4 and 5 with the mag disconnected. And according to the book you should expect............ 0, yep that's a big fat fk all, confuses me too (that's Haynes for you) but running it should develop ~35v at 6000 rpm so I would think its a very low resistance with some quite high tolerance explaining why they go.

Now if you have continuity between T10 at the dash and the orange wires at the ig switch and the fuses as well as the green wire between t4 (gen) and t8 (rectifier) then as she runs the easiest check is to get into the wire at t5 (gen) and see what the output ( ~35v @6000 rpm) is when running. Putting a pin through the wire is useful for this as once done and the pin removed  the wire is hardly affected. 

You should know which is the problem then, its not uncommon for one to take out the other though.

 

[YPVSTony]

Are you saying you are only getting power for the lights, horn.indicators and handlebar panel lights with the engine running? If so it may be worth checking to make sure that the main fuse/s hasn't blown.

Tony