Kfc Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Recently purchased. Looking to get back to original. Or close. It's had its fair share of bodges by the look of it. Current on the truck going home. Looking at it I've got fuel leaking from the exhaust port. Going to have a good luck when I get home. Any ideas? Stuck float? Also can anyone point me in the right direction for parts I. E plastics original looking headlight. Anyou information on the model year and similarities or differences to older dt 175? would also give me better insight. I'm struggling to find a good source of information. Sorry it's long winded. Regards Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted May 28, 2017 Moderator Share Posted May 28, 2017 That looks nice Kevin but not sure why fuel would leak through the exhaust port, being a 2 stroke it would fill up the crank case too, anyway you can switch it off can't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfc Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 It's leaking at the cylinder/exhaust port. Must be missing a gasket for a start and the fuel taps in the office position. Think I've bought a nail. Frustrating as I don't have my tools with me. Just baffled as to why it won't stop. What's the best way to get the fuel out of the crank case? Forgive my mechanical ignorance. Kicking it over with the ignition off.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Just open the drain plug. Out will come the oil / petrol mixture. Refill with new oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 29, 2017 Moderator Share Posted May 29, 2017 2stroke jimmy... If it runs then the 'fuel' leaking will be unburned carbony gunk you get when the pipe leaks or is coked up to buggery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 I know next to bugger all about 2 smokes, but he was asking about draining the fuel that has leaked into the crankcase so I am assuming that it is the tank draining directly into the c/case through the carbs then down through the head and barrels so unburnt. But as I say I know hewhaw about the smokers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 29, 2017 Moderator Share Posted May 29, 2017 Fuel in the crank case on a 2stroke has nowt to do with the gearbox oil. Just pull the plug, disconnect the fuel line to be certain and......... wait....... say overnight, then (WITH THE IGNITION OFF OR SHE COULD GO UP IN FLAMES) crank it over by hand. If it turns ok do it with the kicker and if no vapour or liquid squirting out put in the plug and give her a few kicks. If the plug comes up dry see if you can start her, if not wait a while longer. Heating the plug first helps with a flooded/reluctant engine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 6 hours ago, Kfc said: . What's the best way to get the fuel out of the crank case? 47 minutes ago, Cynic said: Fuel in the crank case on a 2stroke has nowt to do with the gearbox oil. Sorry to be flogging a dead horse here, but no one mentioned gearbox. Yer man asked how to get fuel out the crankcase. Now as I said earlier I know fek all about 2 smokes but I assume removing oil/fuel from the crankcase is the same as on a 4 stroke. If not then apologies for my lack of knowledge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 29, 2017 Moderator Share Posted May 29, 2017 No mate, on a 2 stroke the lower crankcase around the counterbalance is separate from the gearbox and acts as a pump to force the charge into the upper cylinder. A 4 stroke runs induction, compression, power, exhaust. A 2 stroke cheats making induction/compression and power/exhaust combine together, its why they need the expansion chamber and carefully worked back pressure.. The gearbox is all that the engine oil oils. There is no upper cylinder components like valves and chains and camshafts. Just carefully placed openings in the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Ok, that makes it clear. I knew about suck squeeze bang blow, and how 2 smokes compress that, but I assumed the lower crankcases were similar. I live and learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfc Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 Yeah it's fuel mixture running from the carb into the cylinder and then out from the exhaust port/exhaust. I'm assuming there's a lack of gasket. Which is a good thing. Or I might of kicked it over with crank full of fuel and a expansion chamber full of fuel also. My main quandary was why would the carb be letting fuel into the cylinder? Il be home in the next few days to investigate. Thanks for the help. It's appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finnerz89 Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 If the float is stuck in the carb then it'll dump fuel into the engine Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 30, 2017 Moderator Share Posted May 30, 2017 Its common for the floats to stick if the bike is in any way jacked up and leaning over more than stock. Its just something they do. As soon as you get on the bike they free up. Not really a propper problem once you get into the habit of turning the fuel off as you pull up. But its a fucker to sort till you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfc Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Correct it's leaning a bit far due to the side stand. Seems a monkey has welded it back onto the frame for some reason. So that could explain the stuck needle as described. I've took the plug out and pushed it round in first gear. It's spluttered fuel out. I've spent some time kicking it over also. I'm going to leave it over night as suggested. Another issue is the clutch or its adjustment. The cable adjustments wound out at the bar. But still wants to move when the clutch levers back to the bar. I'm not being totally lazy I've read threads you guys have commented on so know it's common, maybe from lack of use or incorrect oil? Is there a pdf service manual I could download? (So I'm not asking you kind folk too many silly questions) Also... where could I get plastics for this model? It's a pig to find bits for. According to the frame number it was sold in Europe, I'm aware this model was sold in Australia up until recently 2006 if I'm not mistaken. Or are there any interchangeable parts yamaha IT 175-dt125lc? I really appreciate the wisdom given. It seems this is the best place for it. Many thanks Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 31, 2017 Moderator Share Posted May 31, 2017 Much as you may want IT parts to fit few will. The clutch will like as not just be stuck. The clutch only opperates the very outer plate. If there is little use the rest can stick together. Put the bike in gear and rock back and forth with the lever pulled. They normally free up. If they have stuck they will easily re stick till its had some use. Good luck with the plastics. There out there. You just got to get lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfc Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 I've found some plastics will order them. The retrofitted ones look very poor. I've stripped the carb and soaked it over night in carb cleaner. All passages are clear. It's back together and I've been dialing in the a/few screw and idle screw. I've wound the a/f screw all the way in and come out 1 and half turns. I also wound the idle screw in to the stop and back out a full turn. The engine will run fine for about 1-2 mins and die. I've had to stop for the night as I've done everyone's head in. Any exact settings I should follow would be welcome. Another question the kick start engagement is poor. I'm assuming it's missing teeth. Does yamaha still have these parts? So I can go into a yamaha dealer to source one. I'm in Thailand and finding parts/communicating want I'm after is problematic. Does anyone have a fiche for the gearbox? Or a pointer as to where I could get a part number. Apologies it's long winded. (I've spent a good few hours kicking it over and the kick start slipping to the bottom and hitting the frame. FOOT PAIN! ) READY FOR A CUP OF TEA! thanks in advance. Kevin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 2, 2017 Moderator Share Posted June 2, 2017 Got a couple kicking around in my garage, they don't generally pack up. Depends which bit is actually missing teeth. Postage to Thailand will be a bit much though. As far as links go, this is for a uk parts supplier called Fowlers. I think they do international post. This is for a 91 but it looks the spit of my 1980. Hope it helps. Fowlers are good people too, happy to talk through any parts. Considering the service the prices are good too. Not yambits cheap (and nasty) but considering most parts are genuine Yamaha or OE eq I have never felt cheated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfc Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Fowlers seem pretty decent. Most parts are still available which is pleasing. Bikes up and running good. Just needed setup cluch and brakes happy with it. Just needs side panels and a couple small jobs done... Thanks for the pointers. Kevin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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