For the pick up coil check you need to measure on the pick up coil side of the connector. Depending on the year of the bike, 1987 to 1993 should read 140 to 170 ohms. 1994 -on should be 182 to 222 ohms

I have to say, the wire colours dont match with the drawings ive seen, but judging by the state of the wiring, its possible its been "worked on" over the years.

Your making progress. I reckon theirs a good chance the stator is ok looking at the readings. The readings to earth of the 3 whites of 1 means massive resistance ie no connection to earth (off the scale of the meter)

If I were in your shoes, and before i do anything else, Id get rid of those crap connectors and replace them with bullet type. Cut back all the black copper back to good, crimp and solder on the bullets (after sliding on some heat shrink sleeving). Get your hair dryer on the heat shrink.

When the wiring is all good, then look at the ignition coils. Double check for good clean connections, and make sure that whre the coils are mounted on the frame, that the mounting is good, clean and secure as thats the earth for them. 

Would it still be the pickup coil issue as I have blue sparks ok both , 

 

Also when my no spark issue started I had one wet and one black sooty plug when I pulled them now when I crank it it turns and obviously there was a spark outside the engine when testing but they come out and still look  brand new which I guess would indicate no fuel.

 

Just wanna say thanks again for all your help,

Are both plugs sparking now?

Double check youve got the correct ignition coil going to the correct cylinder

and check youve not got a fuel pipe pinched somewhere

Both plugs were sparking nice and blue when resting on the engine fins ,  I'm 99% sure the coils are going to correct cylinder, I've had a look and can't see any obvious pinched hoses, but plugs come out as I say spotless, I've even cranked with petcock on prime for a few seconds and nothing happens too

Are the plugs dry or wet when you take them out. Take em out as soon as youve done cranking and check

chuck some fuel in the spark holes and see if it fires

After cranking and hearing fut fut noise this is straight after, both are the same,

 

Any tip on how to ans how much fuel into spark plug hole,

 

Also thr hose going from hexagonal pump to rhe carb is seeping at the pump end. also tried the drain screw on carb and a bit of fuel came out but I guess that coulda still been there from before it stopped working 

The "fut fut" noise will be the fuel pump priming. Were the plugs wet, did they stink of petrol?

Just pour a small amount down each plug hole fit the plugs right away and try and fire it up

Remove the air filters (if fitted) and try spraying some easy start into the rear of the carbs as you try to start it 

Plugs were bone dry and no smell of petrol at all, 

Ok I've tried putting petrol in cylinder and cranked and no joy ,  and even tested spark and was bright blue, seems crazy as was running absolutely fine until my throttle cable snapped and now it's a non starter

Totally agree that this should never happen with a straight cable change, at least not the original issue of no spark and then your '3 white wire issues'

Back to the cable.....When you twist the throttle, does it twist freely and return with a snap shut motion. If you have the air filters removed, can you access the slides and if so does the throttle body slide up and down freely.

Did you try spraying Easy Start into the back of the carb whilst cranking the bike over

Try loosening the float bowl slightly so that fuel spills out between the gasket, that way you'll know if fuel is getting into the carb

14 hours ago, jimmy said:

Totally agree that this should never happen with a straight cable change, at least not the original issue of no spark and then your '3 white wire issues'

Back to the cable.....When you twist the throttle, does it twist freely and return with a snap shut motion. If you have the air filters removed, can you access the slides and if so does the throttle body slide up and down freely.

Did you try spraying Easy Start into the back of the carb whilst cranking the bike over

Try loosening the float bowl slightly so that fuel spills out between the gasket, that way you'll know if fuel is getting into the carb

Yep throttle handle snaps back nice as does the other carb end of the cable om that wheel . 

 

I checked float level on carb and assuming I done it right seems ok, can't undo the float bowl screws at mo as they seized so put some wd40 on and will try again later, checked fuel pump and that definitely spits fuel when cranking.

Only thing I can think from everything I have read is block jets but why wouldn't it start with fuel directly in the cylinder ,  unless of course I added too much/little 

Probably added too much. Bearing in mind normal operation is a fuel/air spray, so just a little is all thats needed.

So the fuel pump works....Good

Now take the fuel line off at the carb and crank it over til fuel come out the loose end then  you know there are no kinks and then it's down to the carb

Have you tried the easy start yet

Update and a good one,

 

Tried easy start (turns out the carb cleaner I has isn't an easy start substitute)

It fires up and idles , but still seems laboured ans when I put in gear and go to pull away it dies, also if I put the choke on , 

More concerning,  when idling it seeps wot I would call too much fuel from pump to carb cable to the point it's dripping down on  cylinder

 

 

Right, we now know it will run. Problem is fuel is not getting through the carbs. The Easy Start allowed it to fire up, but with no fuel getting through it can't rev cleanly or pull away. You'll need to move the spring clamp further up towards the end of the pipe, or get a jubilee clip onto that pipe so no fuel is leaking. But before doing so take the pipe off the carb, fold it over and clamp it shut. Now start cranking the bike over whilst spraying your carb cleaner into the petrol intake (hence the reason you clamped your petrol pipe.) This will pull the cleaner through the carb and hopefully clear any debris that has blocked any airways or jets So if that doesn't work, you need to think when fitting the throttle cable did you interfere with the carb at all. Looking at the pic, it seems the throttle cable fits into the throttle housing on the end of the carb, so there should have been no reason to touch the carb.

you also need to get an inline  fuel filter fitted as you'll be pulling rusty bits through to the carb

Ok sprayed carb cleaner directly into the inlet from pump and it all just seemed to pour back out, managed to start it bit barely and idled/spluttered for about 20 seconds before dying and now nothing again,

 

58 minutes ago, Spike101uk said:

Ok sprayed carb cleaner directly into the inlet from pump and it all just seemed to pour back out, managed to start it bit barely and idled/spluttered for about 20 seconds before dying and now nothing again,

 

so it started then. so now you know its fuel.

 

can't expect the bike to run properly on carb cleaner

I told him that last saturday

Yea I knew it was fuel after what u said, my point was is thr carb cleaner sposed to pour straight  out inlet or should it dissappear and go through carb to cylinder, as it seemed carb didn't let it in