Ok bike has no spark so took it apart, the 3 white wires that go from stator to the regulator rectifier are burnt out as are plugs that attach to the plug from the stator wiring ,  shall I just replace these wires or is this a sign of a dodgy stator 

dodgy RR I would have thought. need to test it with multimeter

Also what amp / size wire do I need I'm in a hardware shop and didn't realise there were so many, it looks the same as a 17amp wire

you need automotive wire and first a bit of homework to work out the amperage.

 

first you need the output of the bike's alternator and apply the formulae (which I'm sure your capable of googling)

Ok I've tried testing the stator with a multimeter from the wires at the plug and can't seem to get any reason at all putting blacl probe on  ground wire and touching other 3 white wired and thr other wires , nothing at all.

Also I tested the 3 white wired coming out of the RR, on positive and negative, and of 6 test on 3 wires most were about 603 but 2 were about 592 ish, is this close enough or is this an indication of a knackered RR also 

 

Thanks in advance,  I'm new to taking bikes apart and fault finding, 

Ive always found these two links to be useful sources of info for fault finding. They are not copyright, they are freely available

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Cheers for those links ,  though I'm leaning more towards stator issues as the main issue was no spark so the white wires melting between RR and thr stator shouldn't have caused that presumably, can't check some things as  cant start the engine so have no idea how to test stator output, also instead of replacing wires and plug can't I just attach female spade terminals to rhe end of stator white wires and plug staright into RR male spades

If my failing memory hasnt completely let me down, your stator should have three white cables leading from it to a plug connector. It should also have two further cbales kleading to a seperate plug connecotr, most likely these may be red and green. If the stator is still in the bike, do the following.

Unplug both the white and the red/green plugs from their mating connectors

Set the meter at the sign that looks like a horseshoe

Measure between white 1 to white 2

Measure between white 1 to white 3

Measure between white 2 to white 3

Stick the black lead onto a good clean earthing point on the bike, and measure between white 1 to earth, white 2 to earth, white 3 to earth

Measure between the red and the green cables

Post the figures up to see

Might be an advantage to post up some piccys too

Awesome I will check those ans upload some pics at first available opportunity ,  also do I need the battery connected to conduct these tests as it's currently sat on my side charging?

2 hours ago, Spike101uk said:

Awesome I will check those ans upload some pics at first available opportunity ,  also do I need the battery connected to conduct these tests as it's currently sat on my side charging?

Nope

You also need to do Step 4 on the Electrex fault finding chart, to try to isolate a possible RR fault

3 hours ago, neversaydie said:

Nope

You also need to do Step 4 on the Electrex fault finding chart, to try to isolate a possible RR fault

Already done this, posted results a bit further up (12:45 on Tuesday), though if specs are the same as the article then my RR is well and truly gone . 

And if the RR has gone how would that cause no spark

On 15/11/2016 at 0:45 PM, Spike101uk said:

Also I tested the 3 white wired coming out of the RR, on positive and negative, and of 6 test on 3 wires most were about 603 but 2 were about 592 ish, is this close enough or is this an indication of a knackered RR also 

 

Thanks in advance,  I'm new to taking bikes apart and fault finding, 

If youve carried out the test correctly, then the RR may be good

Check stator as described now

Spade terminals to the RR and the plug that attaches to the wires from stator plug under seat 

 

 

 

The wire group with yellow tape at end is from the pickup coil and other component  attached to stator and has 2 blue wires and a green wire but go into the red/white and green/white to tci

On 18/11/2016 at 7:26 PM, neversaydie said:

If youve carried out the test correctly, then the RR may be good

Check stator as described now

OK checked stator

3 white wires tested at 200 ohms 

A to B 0.6

A to C 0.6

B to C 0.6

All 3 wires to earth didn't register a reading at all, all 3 wires stayed at 1 , ( used engine fins as a ground)

Checked the red/white to green/white and it jumped to about 194 then back to 1 on the multimeter 

Also noticed the red/white and green/white are only wires going into one plug to tci, took a pic 

 

And orange, red ,white and black from other plug 

 

stator looks good. those shitty car connectors are realy crap, guess what? they are for cars not motor bikes.

I suspect water got in and eroded the wiring creating a resistance, so they heat up.

 

use 3.5mm japanese motorcycle connectors, ebay has them withthe correct shields. you'll also need a different crimper to the car one.

26 minutes ago, drewpy said:

stator looks good. those shitty car connectors are realy crap, guess what? they are for cars not motor bikes.

I suspect water got in and eroded the wiring creating a resistance, so they heat up.

 

use 3.5mm japanese motorcycle connectors, ebay has them withthe correct shields. you'll also need a different crimper to the car one.

Well I was gonna hardwire the 3 white from stator to spade terminals attached to RR, also is the pickup coil ok as didn't get a continuous reading just jumped and went back to 1 tho maybe due to not much contact.

And still don't understand how that would cause no spark 

no idea what the ohms figure to the pickup is there's a few different ones out there. You need to check the manual.

 

I had no spark issues few years ago and it was down to a wire, only found by eliminating it by going through back to basics. very fustrating and took a few months to suss. It even passed the OHMS test

 

Ok so I plugged and plumbed everything back together, and now I have what appears to be a nice blue spark in both plugs, which I'd great but when cranking it won't fire up just turns and makes a fut fut noise still, which I assume is pump putting fuel into cylinder. 

 

Is this because I need to wait a few seconds for fuel to reach as I disconnected the fuel tank and probably drained a bit of fuel from the line, or any other magic things u should have done