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Jack R1

1983 Yamaha TR1

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looking really well,,:D

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18 hours ago, Jack R1 said:

That's nothing. I also have a garage at home and a 'bike area' at work :) 

Workspace_zps21d5jjbp.jpg

 

now that's rubbing it in

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I've settled on this for the rear subframe fixing there will be a further outer / cover plate for detail (that will need machining so will be done nearer the end)

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Looking good mate.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Looking very good.

But please change those cheap square nuts for at least some Class 8 Hexagon ones, you wouldn't want one of them to strip.

 

 

 

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LOL, they are only there to dry fit, they are easy to spin on and off quickly. There will be bosses made up that go into the box section and nylocs where the bosses aren't feasible

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Not the most exciting few weeks as I've had to actually do some paid work but.....

Battery has turned up from Italy. All 1.7Kg and 330CCA's worth



Good old paper template for seat base



And the nearly finished aluminium version (just have to resin in the bolts to stop them turning once the seat foam and cover have been fixed on)


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i used pop stud rivets on the back and super duper hook and loop at the front n my seat.

 

will not shift with the hook and loop thats why I had the pop stud rivets on the rear

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36 minutes ago, Jack R1 said:

I've already drilled the subframe :P

I'd use socket head buttons like these

A2_ScrewBolt_SHBtnFlg_M.jpg

 

keeps it all flat

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I'm using standard M6 bolts then welding an aluminium u bracket over them to stop them turning (going to add resin as a secondary fix). The seat foam will easily mould over the heads 

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11 hours ago, drewpy said:

i used pop stud rivets on the back and super duper hook and loop at the front n my seat.

 

will not shift with the hook and loop thats why I had the pop stud rivets on the rear

Good Idea bud.  I've picked up a new bonnie seat for my auld Speedtwin and was wondering how to secure it

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20 hours ago, Jack R1 said:

I'm using standard M6 bolts then welding an aluminium u bracket over them to stop them turning (going to add resin as a secondary fix). The seat foam will easily mould over the heads 

Considering how seat foam seems to magically transmit every odd edge and curve from the seat base, (at least on my TDR) I gotta say I think its brave not flattening the bit you sit on.

There was just a small strap on my TDR seat but it rested just at the bottom of my back and resonated, after a few miles it hurt like f and started to taint the bike. Its gone now NEVER to return. I would recommend spending time on the seat, a couple of proud nuts hurting your arse (funarr), every time you ride your bike would not be nice.

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A 6mm bolt is obiously only 10mm in diameter and approx 3 or 4mm high ? On top of that there will be a dome of resin. The seat foam and seat cover will then take care of the rest. That seat foam will be a layer of dense on the bottom and another layer of a softer at the top

If you look at the seat they are also positioned toward the front and rear of the seat. The front where the most  of my weight will be is going to be thicker than that at the back 

 

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Well you said before you like it straight from the hip and with the work you have done on other parts I think your skipping over this one. With blobs of resin and such rather than a proper engineering solution.

If you even touch on the performance the suspension/brakes can deliver your arse will be sliding all across that seat 3 ways from sunday..

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You've lost me now. Why will I be sliding around on that seat ? All you can see is the aluminium base that the foam will be over and the seat cover over that ?

I have a feeling we may be talking at cross purposes 

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