j0hn Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 So looks like it's time to tackle something new again . I'm having to replace the fork seals, which will most likely include a full service on the forks as there seems to be signs of leakage. Also, the steering feels a bit "notchy" and was told the head bearing might need replaced as well. I've hopefully got the parts I need to get started: 2x head bearings, 2x dust seals, 2x fork seals and fork oil. However, before I get started ripping the bike apart, I was wondering if I could get some advice on what tools might be essential to carry out the jobs. For those of who have seen my other projects and repairs, I have a decent array of tools to carry out most jobs. Having watched a few videos online, there seems to be a lot of specialised tools (bearing driver, race puller etc.) that I might need to consider, would be great to know if these would actually be essential or if there would be a reasonable alternative method to carry out the same task. Currently, I have a c-spanner in my basket ready to be purchased, any more tips and advice would be much appreciated, thanks . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 5, 2015 Moderator Share Posted July 5, 2015 You don't normally need any special tools. Often getting the forks apart and the seals out can be troublesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Ahh, from what I've seen, the races for the head bearing could be troublesome as well if they are stuck tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 6, 2015 Moderator Share Posted July 6, 2015 Not really. You knock the frame ones out from the opposite side and the lower on on the triple tree normally can be levered up and off with a decent screwdriver. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silkk Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 It's all about the patience but on this I will agree with DT. They normally come free with a little prodding and levering :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted July 6, 2015 Moderator Share Posted July 6, 2015 Have to admit with my last set of fork seals.............I got Churchills to do them down the road from me, called In 20quid and in the time it took to drink a cup of machine coffee they were done. I had completely stripped the forks down to the bare tubes, minus springs and oil and just had them do the seals.One of the few jobs I will farm out. Not so the headstock, have a big old cold chisel I have ground a step into to bite into the small lip and drive them out. All else fails stick some weld on em. But they WILL come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 The forks on this haven't been touched for years so I guess they'll be in some state. No doubt I'll have some difficulty unscrewing bolts on the way but see how I go. Although, I think I might need a c-spanner, don't really have anything that would resemble one and tapping it out with a flat head might not be the best idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevtheRev Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 How did you get on John ? I did new tapered headrace bearings , fork seals and chain and sprockets and rear tyre replacement in an afternoon on my CG125 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Hey KevtheRev, I'm planning to start this either on Monday or Tuesday. I was even contemplating taking Cynic's advice and have the forks alone done by a mechanic but will see how I get on once I actually manage to get the forks off.Congrats on getting all that done in an afternoon! I'm thinking this might be a job over two days for me and I also need to do the rear wheel bearings as well. Last time I did that, the difficult part was getting the race out and ended up having to take it to the mechanic to have it pulled. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevtheRev Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 The trickiest bit is getting the damper rod retaining bolts out (the ones in the bottom of the fork leg ) . Take care not to butcher them or you'll have to drill 'em out . Not the end of the world , but messy none the less . I (carefully ) held the fork leg in a bench vise and used an impact screwdriver with an Allen fitting to loosen 'em . I was lucky as the forks had a flat surface to grip , where the mudguard bolts in . An assistant is a help . Once you remove the fork clamps and bearing rollers from the frame you'll see there are cutaways inside the steering tube which will allow you to drift out the old bearing races . Try to keep 'em square in the tube as you drift 'em out . Tapered needle bearings are an improvement on the standard balls and much easier to fit . You can use the old bearing races or a suitably sized (old) socket to drift in the new ones . As for the bearing which goes on the bottom clamp , it's best pushed on with a metal tube of the right diameter . I hope that helps , if you get stuck let us know . Best of luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Thanks for the tips so far. I've watched a few YouTube videos and some did suggest using the old bearing to push the new ones down. Hopefully I won't have to battle too long getting the old ones out, I'll see how I get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 So only two bolts in and already having issues. No matter how much pressure I put on the hex key, I just don't think there is enough torque to slacken the axle. I also don't have an 8mm hex bit so I'll probably have to order a 3/8" hex bit set that has an 8mm bit. Even if I hack my way into getting it lose, I'll need the bit for my torque wrench anyway when I have to tighten it back up again. This set should be good I think: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-225127-Hex-Drive-7pce/dp/B00IV1SBV0/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevtheRev Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 if the allen key fits well and the head on the bolt is in good nick , try using a metal tube slipped over the end of the allen key to gain more leverage . If there's a nut on the other side loosen it first . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve750 Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Hi all, did anyway so a write up for the seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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