RD350 Slow rev counter

[mcferreira100]

So asked couple of people with Elsies now who now really have me thinking my rev counter running 1000-1500 rpm too slow.

Seen this fix on the aircooled RD site.

Will get better the more you use it ,yes uses a magnet no damage will result in its use what happens is grease sticks between the bell and the rotor, normally happens when they have been left upside down for long periods.

Soak a bit of rag with white spirit and stuff it up a pilot light hole and leave it for a few days, re soaking it when required. The vapour softens the grease, it worked on one of mine.

[dt502001]

Yes it will work ,,and so will using it and,,, so will a small shot of wd40 every day for a few days the cable comes off easy enough.

GO REV THE FUCK OUT OF YOUR BIKE AND STOP WORRING ABOUT THIS ... I Have owned 4 of them and everyone of them seen 11000 rpmw many times just dont hold em thier and all will be fine.

If your scared when it hit 9k now then well ??? you now have entered the relm of 2t POWER!!! Because it's still pulling when old 4t's of the day would have been running out of steam.

As if I am giong to pull a shift at full lean mid conner at 9k rpm just because I didn't gear right or couldn't for that track that thing is going to reved to 12k if needed and that bike is ment to do it!

[mcferreira100]

Thanks for that DT50..why u got no comment on how the plug looks on my other thread? (surely u happy I finally did a plug chop)

[mcferreira100]

Also the reason I`m concerned is with running it in and not knowing what the revs are doing I`ve probably been redlining it without knowing it.

[dt502001]

First your pictuer is crap so could not say 1 way or the other.But DDT did comment and I agreed with him so no point in me commenting the same thing. If your realy so worried about it then put a inductive clamp on the spark plug wire and use a elec rpm gauge easy peasy and you will know exactly how much it is out.

Manufactuers set red line below what they know the eng is well capable of to keep warenty claims down and make engines last longer. MY jeep has a red line of 4500 rpm but will rev to 6000 no problem and has been reved to 8k I am sure a few times getting out of mud holes.And it wasn't even floating valves.

The WR has NO tack and revs to 14k but how the hell would I know I just hang on and twist the throttle hard to the stop ,, shift when I think it needs it or not if I am realy close to slowing down anyway for the next conner.That bike seems to go faster keeping it aroud 10-12k rpm when you shift. but that is a seat of the pants guess.

As you didn't fuck with the squish in the head your well safe into 12k prm,I am not saying go ride it at 12k but if you end up thiere then it not going to just suddenly blow up

The best way to know is when the power falls off it's time to shift before that RPM make mental note of the rpm and use that as red line or if you get to say 10k rpm and the power dosent fall off then just use that realy no need to run them high as the torque curve falls off anyway and you would go faster shifting ealier in a set distance.

When breaking in a motor it is good to rev the bike as this sets the ring wear higher in the bore, people don't belive it but yes things do strech under higher rpm and if the ring land is set to low durring break in then the more chance you have to do ring dammage when you do rev it.

Your just worring about nothing HONESTLY the bikes love to be reved I wouldn't tell you if I thought it was going to hurt your bike and by what I can see in your picture the plug is fat and not lean so cant hurt it that way either.

[DirtyDT]

Fella. Stop with all this worrying already! Get on the bike and ride it. If the revs are reading low, high or not at all, who cares? Providing the balance of fuel, air and 2 stroke oil is about OK, then there is nothing to worry about.

The guys on the ACRD site are very knowledgeable. I am a paid member on the site too. Sometimes the threads get too anorak'ie for me. I don't care if the 1966 XYZ is supposed to have a grey oil filler cap and 1973 was the only year a model had the double doofrinob. That said there is a wealth of information in the site. I take what I need and leave the rest.

Just rev the bike and if it blows up you may of over revved it and a rebuild is required. 2 strokes are not for the nervy.

[AndrewElvisFan]

I used to have a crappy little Zip 50 twist and go. I de restricted it and was getting over 50mph downhill. Revving it's little nuts off every time I got on it. I had it over 6 years and only once had it start to seize. When I did get rid of her, the only thing wrong with it was the exhaust had a dirty great hole in it - the engine was absolutely fine. So basically as above, enjoy the bike and let everyone enjoy the smell of 2 stroke exhaust!! Or I'll swap my 4 banger if you like???

[mcferreira100]

Cant afford to ride it too much..just too damn heavy on juice and 2stroke. This bike for people with jobs.

Also used to ride crap out of my MR50 but I have a lot of money in this bike and I don`t know them...so maybe a little paranoid bout it.

No worries guys..not fiddling anything on it anymore. Just need to finish painting tank etc.

[DirtyDT]

Got to agree they are not very efficient. I estimate my RD uses half a litre of 2 stroke to a tank of fuel and at £14 a litre that can work out expensive.

[Cynic]

They are not economy bikes. My tdr pence per mile is similar to my range rover.

Range rover is heavy on fuel but othereise normal car costs.

If you figure the engine strip/rebuild every 5kmiles. Tyres every 5k. Average of 35mpg. Plus the 2stroke.

Its hitting 6k as the road opens up on your favorite road that makes all the hassle worthwhile.

[mcferreira100]

Was getting really bad..showing 3000rpm at 60mph so opened it up.The bracket the cable screws into was completely loose and spinning around..amazing it worked at all..something inside must be broken. So made up a bracket on the outside to keep things in place. Working ok now.