AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Whilst braking over a small pot hole I felt and heard a significant knock. I've loosened the locking bolt and tightened the main nut with a c spanner. Steering moves freely (tightened till it was stiff, then loosened off) on the stand and under normal riding but when braking to a stop the steering feels stiff. However, I am still getting a knock if I brake over a small hole/ dropped curb so fairly certain it's not too tight. Could this be because I have a new tyre with 'straight' tread holding the wheel straight or should I be looking at something else?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 1, 2014 Moderator Posted August 1, 2014 I would start with things that may have dislodged when the wheel was off Andrew. Check the brakes, calipers etc first. Is the new tyre hitting the front guard? Is the front spindle tight and all of the axle spacers assembled correctly? Is the speedo drive located in the slot (Not sure if this is applicable TBH). 1
dt502001 Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Given the age of the bike I would say your steering bearings need to be replaced,the only way for the steering to come loose is for the bearings to wear down.When was the last time you cleaned and repacked the bearings?
slice Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Just done the ones on the FJ Andrew and they were as dry as a bone probably 10 years since they were last off if not longer FFS!, it might be that the bearings are ball rather than rollers that would give you some movement, my XJ is ball bearings and can get notchy when not tightened just right. It's the cheapest thing to repack them if they run quiet when you have them apart, as DT says do the cheap things first and look for the obvious. Hope that helps a bit? 1
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 1, 2014 Moderator Posted August 1, 2014 My thinking is, if the front wheel has been off to change the tyre, then check it has been reassembled correctly first before looking further afield. It could be any of the things mentioned above in all posts but could even be the balancing of the tyre or the tyre not seating correctly on the rim.
AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 I would start with things that may have dislodged when the wheel was off Andrew. Check the brakes, calipers etc first. Is the new tyre hitting the front guard? Is the front spindle tight and all of the axle spacers assembled correctly? Is the speedo drive located in the slot (Not sure if this is applicable TBH). Sorry, should have said this was the night I changed the tyre. But yes, did check everything was as it should
AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 Given the age of the bike I would say your steering bearings need to be replaced,the only way for the steering to come loose is for the bearings to wear down.When was the last time you cleaned and repacked the bearings? Had the bike 18 months, never cleaned and repacked in that time. This was first time I noticed the knock. The steering being stiff when coming to a stop has only been after I had tightened it up and is not a constant 'binding' but almost as if there is uneven wear. The old tyre was more worn on one side - could this be a symptom of a knackered bearing?
AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 Just done the ones on the FJ Andrew and they were as dry as a bone probably 10 years since they were last off if not longer FFS!, it might be that the bearings are ball rather than rollers that would give you some movement, my XJ is ball bearings and can get notchy when not tightened just right. It's the cheapest thing to repack them if they run quiet when you have them apart, as DT says do the cheap things first and look for the obvious. Hope that helps a bit? Notchy is the way I'd describe the steering. Ill double check if mine is ball bearings and pack some grease in. I don't have a torque wrench, but the main nut is not over tight. Basically a 5" c spanner, lightly tightened, then loosened off so that steering column turns. Dry bearings would explain the stiffening under braking.
mike1949 Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 The old tyre was more worn on one side Was it worn down on the RH side as sitting on the bike? That is usually down to the camber on the road.
AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 That's right. The thought had crossed my mind.
AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 My thinking is, if the front wheel has been off to change the tyre, then check it has been reassembled correctly first before looking further afield. It could be any of the things mentioned above in all posts but could even be the balancing of the tyre or the tyre not seating correctly on the rim. If the tyre wasn't seated correctly or needed balancing, wouldn't I feel a slight wobble? Or is that just 20 years of driving 4 wheels?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 1, 2014 Moderator Posted August 1, 2014 To check the tyre seating, look at the distance between the rim and a reference mark around the tyre. The distance should be the same. Hard to tell given the state of the roads. I would say you have loose bearings. They are a pain to do, i've just replaced some in one of my bikes. It could be bearings but I am sticking with the thoughts that it is something to do with changing the tyre. Have you warped the rim changing the tyre?
AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 I've got about 2-3mm difference at opposite sides across diameter. I'm assuming let the tyre down and knock it around? The knock I had was prior to changing the wheel. I presume the yolk all has to come off to do the bearings? I checked the rim for warping each time I lost skin!
AndrewElvisFan Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 When you say a pain to do - in relation to changing a tyre??
dt502001 Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Harder than a tire as the bearings will fall to the floor if there is no grease left in there and then you get to tryt and find them all. Set the bike up so front is off the ground and remove the upper triple clamp,then slowly loosen it all up when you get about 1/8 of a inch loose on the main stem start packing grease in to help catch the balls from falling to the floor. once you have alot of grease in then keep slowly removing the stem nut,someone with a rag under will help to catch the balls if you have enough grease then they will fall slowly. Once you have in hand clean and check that they are still round ,most likely not. and measure them,, again they will be worn if you had to tighten the stem. Best to have new ready to install along with new races or if a tapered bearing kit is avaible then go that way SOOOOO much easier. You will need a long punch to drive the old races out with and a block of hard wood to drive them back in and a good hammer. EDIT : I would charge about 3 hrs to do it on your bike so count a whole day if you dont have the tools or experience The hardest part will be getting the inner race off the stem at the bottom. Heat and a good chisle will help. or a bearing race puller.
dt502001 Posted August 2, 2014 Posted August 2, 2014 Have a look at a exploded pict on a site like CRC or what ever site you use with exploded views then you know what parts are involved.. Also read back about wedding rings thats what your dealing with,warming the ring ( lower race ) to fit back on will help alot.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 2, 2014 Moderator Posted August 2, 2014 Basically what DT50 said. Nothing requiring brute strength but the loose bearings go everywhere. If you get the front wheel off the floor, hold the bottom of the forks and push/pull these, you should be able to feel some movement if the bearings have gone. You don't need to get genuine bearings if you are going to change then, most are 6mm 1/4 inch (you need to check) and you can get these from fleabay. You will need some grease though.
slice Posted August 2, 2014 Posted August 2, 2014 On my XJ Andrew there are 18 balls in the top and bottom race, as the DTs say it's about not losing them when you loosen the nut off, just go slow and it's a doddle to do just time consuming what with taking all the controls off and the forks out it's just a bit of a faff to get to but really rewarding when you get it all back together and it feels light and the handling suddenly becomes like it's on rails. Look in your manual for the correct procedure and you won't go far wrong.
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