MY ENGINE IS BACK!!! So got onto painting straight away.

Listing of work done:

Crank webs, bearings and seals replaced

Head skimmed

Conrods..big/small ends replaced

Barrels bored out 1mm oversize

Pistons and rings replaced

All engine as well as waterpump seals replaced

Pic of old parts

Some pics after engine paint

Engine going in tomorrow.

Looking Good mate

Ooohh nice

Very sharp indeed!

Oh my that is beautiful mate, whatever you paid it was worth it. Let's hope it runs as well as it looks.

Very sleek indeed!

Engine back in. Got some 2stroke in the tank to bleed the pump.

Bit concerned with this radiator hose not wanting to sit nicely.

Some other concerns:

Got the chain back on so have a rolling chassis again. Find front brakes not releasing..hoping they will bed themselves in once on the go.

One carb float valve is sticking. Soaked it in compression stabilizer but might still block fuel flow to carb.

Carbs going on tomorrow..might go for a start on the weekend.

If the front brakes are not releasing then the bleed port in the master is pluged. It's the small hole closes to the hose end alows fluid to travel back to the master once the seal moves back.

Don't try to start it untill you have the carbs sorted out your breaking in a new motor and runing it on one cylinder or flooding will not be good.

Same thing if that hose blows off ,loosen it off at the rad and get it on right.

Be a crying shame to blow it up before you even get to ride it.

Yeah that hose is wrong and unless you sort it it's going to let go at some point, is it just to short or the wrong shape? try a hot air gun on the bugger if it's just a tight fit. Looking pretty nifty tho, was one of your better buys I think.

PS if the hose has to have a kink at the end to fit properly then look at a car rad hose, these are usually longer and stronger, and you can cut one down to fit, as I'm a cheap bastard I like to improvise where I can and paying £50 for a genuine hose as opposed to £5 for a car one makes more sense as far as I'm concerned. Others have the right to disagree (INCOMING!)

Will have to see where that master cyl bleed hole is..was thinking once I take it down the road and work the brakes it should sort itself out.

The hose sat ok when it came off..I`ll fiddle it some more from rad side..sure I can get it better.

In 2 minds whether to replace float valves..they are ridiculously expensive..but can u trust them after standing so long? (and I`m a worse cheapskate than Slice). Got them soaking in fresh fuel to see if they get better.

That's the way mate. save a quid when you can as long as it's not the stop and go bit's everything else is just down to taste and how deep your pockets are.

Being creative to save a few bucks is one thing,being cheap and haveing it cost you a motor is another.Spending all that cash to build the motor and then blow it up for the sake of 40 bucks is foolish.I'm not saying they can't be cleaned up but if the float needle is questionable then replaceing them is the only right thing to do.

2T's can be tempermental all on thier own no need to have a cylinder wash out its oil and blow it up you will be kicking youself in the ass.

Correct carburation is key to a long life for a 2t I have seen guys blow up new motors in 10 min all because they failed to get the carb set up/cleaned properly.

It's your bike and cash and your call to reuse,but I know what I would do if there was any question as to the intrgerty of the parts to do thier job.

Crap cold weather here today..but decided to check out that hose.

Helps to get the pipe the right way round..my bad.

And fitted exhausts..with those expensive new gaskets I might add.

Also topped up engine oil.

Got a question with the coolant. Will mix coolant 50/50 with distilled water but what is top up procedure??..all straight into radiator..or coolant tank or both?

Hi

I have been following this rebuild with some interest, a thought has occurred to me on the question of coolant, have you considered heat transfer fluid for motorcycle cooling systems, a similar product is often used on vintage cars

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/coolant/evans-powersports-bike-cool-180-waterless-engine-coolant

have never tried it but it could be a useful product.

Its just a thought,

I`ve put this stuff in. All the lubes were Motul.

Saw this on UTube. Seems to have cured the float needle problem. Earbud with some Brasso and give it a polish in there..then clean out with some compression stabilizer and carb cleaner (guy used a drill on the earbud to get a mirror finish).

Carbs went on today..should be able to go for a start tomorrow once carbs synced and inline fuel filters and lines on.

Started pretty easy..though finding the tank cap seems to cause an airlock. Thought I had a coolant leak until I noticed the barrel drain bolt for coolant not tightened properly. My main hassle is after checking oil, the dipstick has become cross threaded..so can`t get the bugger to screw in properly again.

Here`s a utube URL of it running.

DIng dinga ding yep that's a 2 stroke alright !!! Sounds great mate you must be well chuffed. Try running a bolt up the thread on the dip stick, that way you can see if it's running true or not. Liked the vid but PLEASE !!! next time turn the volume down almost shat myself and the cat is refusing to come down off of the curtains.

Er...don`t u have volume control Slice?..it will be loud as its standing in enclosed area.

On first startup idling screws were completely out so revs shot to 4500rpm and stayed there. So that sorted as you can see in the video.

Took it for a spin and bike feels nice and solid..not its age..specially the gearbox..feels like new still. Starting very easy and idling beautifully..gauges all working nicely including temp gauge(speedo and tacho not bouncing all over like the DT`s) Needs some fine tuning as she bogs down a bit if I try give it the beans. I`m sure I adjusted the throttle cables out of sync while sorting the high revving out.

Might need a new dipstick as it became cross threaded so had to force it back in.

Only major problem is the brakes which are not releasing..one side disc getting very hot..they feel a little spongy too so think I need to bleed some more to start off with. Someone mentioned a return hole which could be plugged on the master cylinder (would like to know exactly where it is and how one do I clean it).I did not do anything to the master cylinder in the rebuild.

Surely if only one side disc getting hot it points to the caliper not the master cylinder.

if the front brake is staying on (stuck), as DT500 said gotta sort it, if its just binding a little, that's normal the run out in the disc will sort that out once you on the road.

if you painted the calipers it could be excess paint stopping the pads returning