Don`t have enough experience to try free a piston that`s been seized for 20yrs..might damage something. Expensive parts going in here so rather let a pro do it.

Soak the piston in diesel or coke first as this can help. I got my RD350B pistons out and that hadn't moved since 1986.

PS. Did I mention that I'm totally Jealous.

Busy with seized front brakes. Stripped calipers so you can see how it looks inside piston bore. Plenty gunk in there..will try sum carb cleaner here.

Seals will be replaced.

Piston could use a cleanup.

Noticed the manual shows a spring here that`s not on mine. Can only presume this caliper is different.

Assembled yoke today.

Pic of how good seat still looks underneath.

fitted swingarm

Ok engine stripped. No sign of a seizure..was just parked..maybe outside as crank is biggest problem with signs of pitting and rust. He might have to use bits from another spare engine he has. One conrod stuck in place. So crank will be rebuilt and will do rebore to 1.00mm oversize. Flywheel magnets and coils look very good indicating bike did stand a long time.

That looks pretty sweet for a bike that has stood for all the time, just a few bit's and bob's to clean up or replace and the next thing you know you will be down the road on it !!! Like the paint work by the way looks really smart.

Very nice.

Have you decided to do the work yourself?

I wouldn't rebore it unless it needs it. It's hard to tell but you may get away with just a hone. Unless there is scoring a hone ought to be fine.

Best thing to do is to take it to a specialist and get them to have a look.

I had a barrel that had been nicked thrashed for miles and miles. Done about 15K on the engine as a whole and all it wanted was a hone.

Wish I could do it but I feel I just don`t have the mechanical experience to judge how good engine parts are, so it is a specialist doing the job for me (he`s well known around here for his knowledge of 2strokes..RD`s and Banshees). He reckons it definitely needs a rebore so rather do it..then I know what I`ve got..specially with a high performance engine like this.

Thanks for the paintwork comment..wait till the tank and plastics get done..I`m getting it professionally done this time and the decals will be traced and sprayed on..think it will have a better finish. Only thing is the guy can only do it in 4 weeks time. Going to be a long wait so keeping myself busy with all the smaller jobs on the bike..every nut, bolt and washer is getting wirebrushed and painted. Still got wheel cleanup and calipers to reassemble and paint..wiring cleanup before reinstall..mudguard cleanup and black chrome polish. Need to start thinking about all the gaskets and seals I need to order around reeds, carbs, brake calipers, fuel tank etc..

So the crank webs need to be replaced due to bad pitting as well as conrods. So complete crank rebuild will happen..this engine will be like new when done. Looking at a bill of around 560pounds for engine alone.

Been busy making things nice.

Monoshock

Front wheel..plenty painting and polishing here..all day job.

Rear wheel tomorrow.

Will fit new tyres when done..still wondering what tyres to fit..hope these rims not odd sizes..would like a modern road tyre as wide as I can go on the back.

Dont fall into the big is best trap. The correct sized modern tyre will be comfortably better than any oversize.

Easily good enough to scrape things.

I get you..but those standard tyres are just too narrow for my liking. Wont be able to go very wide on the standard rim anyway.

But there old school. On bridgestones my TDR250 (same sizes) can touch the pegs down. Bit scary and it is under power but touch they do. Thats well into knee down angles on your lc.

If you change wheels, susp forks etc you can improve. Otherwise I really really urge you to stay stock.

Decided to go with gloss black on rear brake hub. Doing rims in satin black.

Was wondering how to get the emulsion tubes out the carbs as they sit flush. The guy doing my engine suggested screw in main jet, stick it in a vice and press the tube out.

Ive been battling to get these marks off the fork stanchions. Used Brasso with fine steel wool and Autosol metal polish with a rag but am not winning. Was hoping to just polish but otherwise will have to paint them.

the usual way to clean up the for sliders is to use wet/dry paper, it replicates the original 'brushed' finish (cut some strips), needs to be quite a fine grade and keep wetting it

the usual way to clean up the for sliders is to use wet/dry paper, it replicates the original 'brushed' finish (cut some strips), needs to be quite a fine grade and keep wetting it

yep, i had to use 400 grit wet and then go finer till you can polish as much as you need.

Otherwise a Scotchbrite pad (fine) is supposed to work quite well and you can attach it to your drill!!!

Scotchbite pads or rotary they will come up like new.

New boots are on..Bridgestone Battlax BT45`s. Front 90 and went for 120 on rear..was told by the salesman who races RD`s these work well. No one realised these wheels needed tubes. Apparently there is a mod to tubeless but I just went for new tubes.

Back wheel looking nice.

Front wheel went on today.

Looks very nice there.

Drilled and grooved discs? I know that's the classic look but...

Thought about it but nah..prefer to stay original.