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Posted

Headlamp switch faulty - somehow dipped has become full after last bulb change?? Easy fix to swap wires over.

Binding brakes. Need to remove calipers and replace seals. Hopefully easy change - on order.

Rear wheel bearings excessive play. Should be easy change - bearings ordered.

Rear brake back plate insecure. Caused by incorrect nut and bolt. New one ready to replace.

2 advisories on tyres - need to replace sooner rather than later but can wait a week for payday!

Not too bad for a 20 yr old bike. Saving nearly £200 on labour as long as I can get it all done myself. Would have to be a Friday though - can't get the bits til Monday so will be refitting bits in the dark and probably finishing off Tuesday morning.

If anyone has any tips for what to be careful with re brake calipers I'd be more than grateful.

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Posted

The brake calipers might just need cleaned ,, remove [ leave then piped] push the pistons out, [ not fully] emry and clean the gunk / corrosion

off. if they are the sliding type , split them , emry and clean the pins, dust covers may disintegrate :icon_neutral: ..

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Posted

The brake calipers might just need cleaned ,, remove [ leave then piped] push the pistons out, [ not fully] emry and clean the gunk / corrosion

off. if they are the sliding type , split them , emry and clean the pins, dust covers may disintegrate :icon_neutral: ..

and pull away the dust covers first and you will see the white ferrous which will need to be cleaned.

put a chunk of wood inplace of pads so they don't pop out

Posted

Cheers!

Posted

Andrew

I would question why you would present a bike for MOT with these, easy to find/fix faults

Posted

Fingers crossed when I take them out to clean them they'll slide back in ok.

Posted

Andrew

I would question why you would present a bike for MOT with these, easy to find/fix faults

I hadn't ridden at night since changing the bulb which blew Weds, my front wheel was spinning freely when I checked it last weekend and honestly hadn't felt it binding, I could feel a small amount of play in the rear wheel and was expecting an advisory and I didn't realise a wrong bolt in the rear brake back would give a fail. The original bolt had rusted so I had to drill it out and replace it with a normal nut and bolt last September. It was corroded so much I didn't see it should have had a split pin!

All in all I think inexperience answers your question! In 20 years I've not presented a car for MOT and had it fail and this was my first bike to present for testing.

Posted

Didn't realise it was your first bike MOT, lesson learnt then mate. I do agree about inexperience tho. The 1st year or so of my bike ownership I used the MOT to tell me what was wrong with the bike

Posted

First 'proper' bike on the road. Had twist and go for 6 years before this one and before that 20 years ago had a 250 for playing on in fields (unofficially!). Had several 4 wheeled buckets of nails in last 20 yrs which seemed to be relatively easy to sort for MOT test! Spotted a few biggies and sorted for the bike just missed these couple of little jobs. I live for learning curves - fingers crossed the weather stays dry until I've sorted it!

Posted

Ok. Struggling to remove the rear wheel bearings without the proper tools. Anybody got any ideas before I get the sledgehammer or blow torch out?

Posted

Yip

Firstly make sure the new bearings are in your freezer, then..

Ensure you have removed any circlip or retaining clips. Then get a drift that's longer than the width of the hub and with a smaller diameter than the spindle (I have an old socket extension bar, ideal for the purpose). Fit this through one bearing and catch the lip of the inside edge of the opposite bearing. Drift out with a hammer. Turn wheel over and repeat for the other one.

On refitting remove one bearing from the freezer, and using either the auld bearing or a suitably sized socket gently tap in the bearing until it sits on the lip squarely. Once again turn the wheel over and REMEMBERING to refit any spacers that were in the hub, and iirc there is one on the SR, repeat the process for the new bearing. Job done

Posted

Cheers Jimmy! Just got one side out (had to break for kids lunch). According to the manual there should have been a collar but this was missing. Just need to get the brake side out now. Also has oil seal which looks all nylon? Was going to use a chefs blow torch but this has made me think twice on that.

Posted

aruhatyv.jpg

Oil seal out - fairly sure it shouldn't look like that!

Posted

ruzu5udy.jpg

I think I just found the collar at the wrong end! Bearing doesn't look too healthy either! Also looks like someone before me had fun removing them as there is scoring inside the hub.

Posted

ruzu5udy.jpg

I think I just found the collar at the wrong end! Bearing doesn't look too healthy either! Also looks like someone before me had fun removing them as there is scoring inside the hub.

Dont think thats a collar mate, looks more like the shield off the bearing

Posted

Could be - checked the manual and there should be 2 collars and they look in the pic to be more substantial. Given the amount of rust and dirt in the hub doesn't look as though its been shielding much!

Posted

+1 NSD that is the grease shield.

Can you post a pict of the collar your speaking of Elvis? This is your life we are taking about if you get it wrong,thoes bearing were done a long time ago, so lets make sure you get it back together right this time.Just cause the last person didnt do it right dont just put it back together the way it came appart.

Posted

If it's the bearing support collar about 4 inches long then without it your bearings will fail again quickly.

Posted

e3e9umem.jpg

It's item 2 on this diagram. The bearing on this side was ok and packed with grease.

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