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1994 dtr125 winter project


georgen
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Well I bought this bike off a lad at work who blew it up, he is 22 clem after all and blew this up then a kdx200 up before he listened to me and bought a 4 stroke lol, well decided to spend this winter doing this up for myself to see if I can get some of my youth back lol. I havnt got many pics of it but will add more as we go along, so far have took all the panels, tank and seat off and fitting dt125x panels instead, then fully strip powder coat and paint and convert to supermoto as it would not see dirt so might as well have road wheels/tyres.

pics so far as i got it, damage to it which turned out to bad so have sourced another engine which will be stripped and checked before rebuild, then side panels and rear guard trail fitting, which then turned into seat and tank as its all or nothing with this swap.need a few things which Ill source as I go along and no doubt will be asking a few questions.

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Hy george" you"re well on with the rebuild ,, :yeah:

No no no, all metal parts have to be stripped bare and painted /powder coated, ive two engines to strip and rebuild one from them, I need to fit a power valve controller that seams not to be there lol, rewire the bike and come up with the cheapest way to supermoto it, as no big spend on this, this projects on a tight budget or the missus will rip me apart lol.

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No no no, all metal parts have to be stripped bare and painted /powder coated, ive two engines to strip and rebuild one from them, I need to fit a power valve controller that seams not to be there lol, rewire the bike and come up with the cheapest way to supermoto it, as no big spend on this, this projects on a tight budget or the missus will rip me apart lol.

Although these bikes had power valves fitted,,,,,,, Yam didn't make them operational untill the year 97. In 99 they got more up-dates, like a newer oil pump, generator, CDI ect ect

So your 94 model never had a servo motor or pully for the P.Valve

Best of luck with the restoration and keep at it till its finished......... (like i can talk)

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The one big change would be to put fatter road tyres on it. Getting wider rims and new spokes are about £200 to £250 per wheel if you go the stainless route. A cheaper way would be to find out what alternative wheels will fit on with minor changes like different bearings.

There ain't no such thing as a cheap project. Just don't keep a tally of what you spend and convince yourself that you haven't spent nearly as much as you actually have. I tend to run projects with a spreadsheet. It helps me know what parts, part numbers and costs I am dealing with. I also throw into it any alternative bike information that use the same parts which helps in my fleabay quests when searching. The money column gets scary but that's how I like to work.

Good luck.

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Wow that motor was truley fooked!

As Dirty DT say no project is a cheap project i too know the pain of adding up my spending sprees and the wifes hand print is still visable on my cheek

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Although these bikes had power valves fitted,,,,,,, Yam didn't make them operational untill the year 97. In 99 they got more up-dates, like a newer oil pump, generator, CDI ect ect

So your 94 model never had a servo motor or pully for the P.Valve

Best of luck with the restoration and keep at it till its finished......... (like i can talk)

Well you never, Now thats a good bit of info Ive never heard cheers.

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Ive done a few projects over the years but all being cars not bikes and they cost lots, thinking bikes smaller so smaller budget, I can do the donkey work myself and have a mate with an engineering place thats been very good to me over the years making one off stuff and altering stuff for me. reading up on wheels at the moment and so far rs125 wheels seem to be winning in cost and fitment, I would prefer spokes but cost is much higher. The bike has just sat in my yard last few months with nothing being done as i was unsure what I was going to do with it but now decisions been made will be moved 5 minutes away to in-laws garage so I can crack on, on the engine being stuffed It is but put back together as it takes less room lol, the piston whilst running had being hitting the head aswell so imprinted the piston and gudgeon pin making it very hard to remove, I have no idea how the hell it ran to the point it did. heres a couple of pics as she is at the moment.

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Good project. Love the DTR's. As already stated the 89-97 models never had the powervalve system set up and just had the valve in the cylinder that was often turned 180 degrees as a restriction. The 97-99 models used the 3 wired version servo which also contains the power valve control unit inside and plugs straight into the loom. The 2000 onwards used a 5 wire version and a different cdi which housed the powervalve control unit there. I have a couple of 3 wire powervalve servos if you are interested. £65 delivered.

Im clearing all my DT125R parts as well so if theres anthing youre after give me a message on here and ill pm you my number to conact me.

I'm also trying to sell a DT125R 1989 model with everything there and running engine if you know anyone interested. would make another great winter project.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Oh dear. This one has seen better days.

That cylinder at the top. That's coded 3BN. From what I understand now they are not that great of a barrel and were quickly redesigned to make the 3MB barrel. If I were you I'd swap it over one of them.

HOWEVER I don't think it's that simple. The 3BN has slightly larger bore and thus it must have a shorter stroke. You will want to use a thin base gasket and make sure you buy the correct piston size. Starting at 54.00mm.

If you decide you are keeping the 3BN cylinder be SURE TO GET THE RIGHT SIZE PISTON! Sizes start at 54.40mm.

Damage looks like oil pump failure causing lack of oil. Or maybe (although unlikely) they didn't recognise the bigger bore diametre and bought the wrong size piston causing insane piston slap and then ultimate failure.

Although as said by the looks of things i'd put my money on oil pump failure.

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Oh dear. This one has seen better days.

That cylinder at the top. That's coded 3BN. From what I understand now they are not that great of a barrel and were quickly redesigned to make the 3MB barrel. If I were you I'd swap it over one of them.

HOWEVER I don't think it's that simple. The 3BN has slightly larger bore and thus it must have a shorter stroke. You will want to use a thin base gasket and make sure you buy the correct piston size. Starting at 54.00mm.

If you decide you are keeping the 3BN cylinder be SURE TO GET THE RIGHT SIZE PISTON! Sizes start at 54.40mm.

Damage looks like oil pump failure causing lack of oil. Or maybe (although unlikely) they didn't recognise the bigger bore diametre and bought the wrong size piston causing insane piston slap and then ultimate failure.

Although as said by the looks of things i'd put my money on oil pump failure.

It had been run on premixed fuel but since the state its in mayby not lol. well works being manic so done nothing to it but decided engine is mostly scrap so sourced another to start with, was local running standard piston and got it for £110, also these turned up today as did the rain, sleet and wicked wind. so at least got something to get on with now, just got to make them fit now :spin2:

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Well got a bit done after work today, got back wheel measured up, so went with dtr spindle the smaller of the two Aprilia rs125 spacers for the brake disk side had to be reduced 2mm to 11mm and the sprocket side needed a new one making 25mm longer than the long Aprilia one so 47mm in total length. Now disk runs clear in the calliper carrier wheels bolted up and sprockets line up, the pitch of the sprocket is different to the dt so will have to do some calculations for gearing before I decided what to do with chain sprocket combo.

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Well another full day at work but managed to pull front wheel off and take some measurements whilst still light, took a few pics to see what it will be like. will have to wait till next week now to make spacers and sleeve.

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Cheers, just dropped spindle and drawings down mates to sort front wheel, got to sort sprockets out etc then front calliper bracket as using the complete rs front brake, then it will be coming apart to get blasted, coated and prettified but I am also liking the yellow wheels, bike will be black with gold touches and when engines stripped and rebuilt it will be time to rebuild and use for commute. I was playing with the idea of refitting the autolube system at the moment I am 50/50 at what to do.

any pics or details of your conversion?

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Now all bolted up checked wheels were inline with each other and they are 1mm out from each other, but the wheels sit 3mm front and 4mm rear toward the right hand side of the bike when measured up but dont think this will make any difference as doubt bike was made with perfect weigh split side from side from new never mind after 19 years of being abused, if it is a problem on the road, I can move the rear another couple of mm but after that will need to start modifying the rear rim, the front has loads of adjustment left, but thought them being inline with each other was more important than dead centre.

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Now have to sort calliper bracket out then its all coming apart to be blasted powder coated and painted and hopefully come the spring used to commute to work.

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