hi there peeps.

Ive recently picked up a Mitsubishi FTO with the 1.8 straight-4 engine in the hope that it will be cheaper to run/insure than my 2.0 V6 FTO.

only problem is i bought it as spares or repair, the drivers side window was smashed and the battery leads cut before the scumbags made off with the battery including the clamps and leads. ive replaced the window and i now need to splice a new length of cable to extend the existing cables to reach the battery box.

The cables i need to splice are 7mm diameter and 10mm diameter, soldering is unlikely to work as i dont have a soldering iron meaty enough to tackle the job, so i am looking to use an inline crimp/splice, has anybody used these before or know where i can find some?.

much love peeps.

foamy

all I can think about is vehicle wiring products, they sell the thick stuff

you can get these in all sorts of sizes, you'll have to borrow or hire the appropriate lug crimping tool and heat shrink some insulation over the finished joints

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/261168202970?lpid=83&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=83&ff19=0

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/terminals-splices/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/?sra=p

On some of my old classic cars I used metal joiners that had screws that clamped the two ends of the cables, a bit like giant chock block connectors but without the plastic.

I think they may have been called armoured cable connectors.

Campaman, was racking my brain cell over what they were called could see it in my minds eye but buggered if I could remember what the name was. Seem to remember they were really good at attaching the cable as they had screws that you could tighten it down till the pips squeaked.

You can get battery isolator switches that will act as a join. 2 screws each side to connect the cable I think. Used on track cars and campers. Other than that some 240 volt earth bonding connectors may do it.

I would use a copper in-line splice. Just be sure it is of suitable size to withstand start current & is insulated when crimped.

If at all possible I would rip out the old cut cables and put in a set of new ones. May be overkill but having no joins in the cable would lower fire/discharge risk.

Johnny.

I would guess you are not familiar with foamys fixing techniques? Why do it properly when you can bodge it!

Smear both cable ends with liquid metal. Put them together until set. Wrap loads of insulating tape around the join. Job done.

Right now im not even sure if the car is worth it, once i can get it powered up and i know for sure its a good one i will probably end up putting new cables in.

Well just use a set of jumper cables then !!!!!

That would also make a good security device, just take the cables with you when you park.