AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Posted September 16, 2013 Completed 500 miles with no problem and I'm now experiencing a lot of slip. The only way I can describe it is as if it is not engaging properly. I have had issues in the past where I would get a secondary click as if the clutch was fully engaging after releasing the lever, now I am not getting this. If I use more than half throttle in 2nd gear and up she just revs and loses forward power. The only thing I have done is pour oil down the cable (I loosened the adjuster off at the lever but put it back exactly the same). Is there anything I can check without the need to buy gaskets before payday? There is enough freeplay at the lever and the clutch arm at the engine returns fully. When I changed my oil last month I used 10 30W as recommended, although there is a little too much in there. Any help to sort this as cheap as possible would be greatly appreciated! Cheers
dt502001 Posted September 16, 2013 Posted September 16, 2013 You can try lowering the level to porper ,but you made 500 mile without a problem so your clutch is done. Short shift till pay day and don't rev it hard. If you take it easy on it then you won't need the steel plates just the fiber plates,that will keep the cost down.
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 You can try lowering the level to porper ,but you made 500 mile without a problem so your clutch is done. Short shift till pay day and don't rev it hard. If you take it easy on it then you won't need the steel plates just the fiber plates,that will keep the cost down. Cheers!
Moderator DirtyDT Posted September 16, 2013 Moderator Posted September 16, 2013 What oil did you used Andrew? Not the car stuff I hope. The clutch may just need adjusting. Most large adjustments are done at the engine side first, then fine tuned at the lever. You may have an adjuster part way down the actual cable (not on the lever). Is the push lever on the left hand side of the engine returning to its correct position and is there some free play in the cable? As DT says, get the oil level right first.
blackhat250 Posted September 16, 2013 Posted September 16, 2013 Yeh elvis" if you have free play at lever, the plates will be worn , easy fix ,,,,just be gentle on her, It was ok on sat , as you hit 60mph on that duel carrageway.
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 What oil did you used Andrew? Not the car stuff I hope. The clutch may just need adjusting. Most large adjustments are done at the engine side first, then fine tuned at the lever. You may have an adjuster part way down the actual cable (not on the lever). Is the push lever on the left hand side of the engine returning to its correct position and is there some free play in the cable? As DT says, get the oil level right first. It was proper bike oil - Castrol bike. Several miles to get the right one without additives! Main adjuster on the push lever, returns as it was before (albeit last few mm a little slow). Plenty of free play. Can't see an online adjuster part way down, but its lashing down again so haven't spent a lot of time looking! I'll drain some oil off when it stops raining!
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 Yeh elvis" if you have free play at lever, the plates will be worn , easy fix ,,,,just be gentle on her, It was ok on sat , as you hit 60mph on that duel carrageway. It has been slipping on and off for a while. I didn't expect it to suddenly start slipping all the time!
Moderator Airhead Posted September 16, 2013 Moderator Posted September 16, 2013 is there a pointer at the end of the push lever and a mark (pip) on the engine casing ?
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 Just been on fleabay - what a mine field!! Obviously I don't want an SE (pre 88) but other than that what the hell am I looking for??? There's plate sets in fibre or steel, spring sets, cases, complete clutches salvaged etc etc. think I'll need to get fibre and steel as I'll not have time to get the steel afterwards as I only have a small window to do the work! I know I'll need a new gasket, will I need new springs? Did the clutch design change after my '94 model? Would I be out of mind to get a second hand complete basket (in the interest of saving me time)?
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 is there a pointer at the end of the push lever and a mark (pip) on the engine casing ? There is - the pop on the casing doesn't line up with the point on the push lever, but does line up with the edge of it. I'll try and take a pic now I've worked out how to use photobucket!
Moderator Airhead Posted September 16, 2013 Moderator Posted September 16, 2013 to check the clutch adjusment, disconnect the cable from the handlebar lever the push lever should move backwards push it forwards with your hand until it resists movement at this point the pointer on the end of the push lever and the pip on the casing should align use whatever adjustment mechanism has been fitted to achieve this alignment re-connect the cable and use the cable adjuster to give a little free play, about 10mm at the end of the lever job done
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 Picture not working as getting too dark! When I release the cable, there is no further movement from the push lever and there is resistance when I try moving with my hand. The clutch has always been 'high' to use a car expression and operates after only an inch of moving the hand lever.
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 The pointer and pip do look as though they are aligned.
Moderator Airhead Posted September 16, 2013 Moderator Posted September 16, 2013 thats it then, it needs adjusting to compensate for the wear that has taken place, at the moment you have no free play at all and that's why it is slipping. I dont 'know' about your particular bike, but the adjustment is sometimes a screw/locknut in the centre of the pressure plate...a case off job. have you got a manual to refer to? I take it you disconnected the cable like I said?...it should move a little before it resists
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 Yes I checked the push lever with the cable disconnected. Does that mean I may not need new plates? Previously I had noticed that by push the handlebar lever forward after engaging gear it seemed to engage fully. Also the last 5mm or so of movement from the push lever has always been slow. Yes, I have a copy of the manual on my laptop. I'll get myself a gasket and get the case off.
Moderator Airhead Posted September 16, 2013 Moderator Posted September 16, 2013 yes the push lever should move then stop at the marker, if it does the plates are ok...and the adjustment too. bloody hell it sounds like a stiff/sticking cable now disconnect it at both ends, it should be easy to move the inner
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 Def not the cable. With the push lever not moving makes sense to adjust inside the casing to compensate for wearing clutch. Think I'll get a new plate set in case I open it up and find it shagged! Not like it will go to waste!!!
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 I meant push lever not moving when I release the cable!
wild foamy Posted September 16, 2013 Posted September 16, 2013 Weak clutch springs would be my guess, shopuld have said before Squires, i have a brand new spare set i bought for my SR and never needed!, will pop them in a jiffy bag if you want them
AndrewElvisFan Posted September 16, 2013 Author Posted September 16, 2013 Weak clutch springs would be my guess, shopuld have said before Squires, i have a brand new spare set i bought for my SR and never needed!, will pop them in a jiffy bag if you want them Cool! Yes please. How much?
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