SF119 Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Hello, A couple months ago I acquired a '78 Yamaha DT175E, runs great was just missing a few minor parts like the rear brake light lens and spring for the stand, guy said everything worked including Tach and Speedo but while the Tach does in fact work fine the Speedometer gears turned out to be frozen and caused the little clutch wheel to get rounded off when it was ridden and forced to spin around the frozen gear. I cleaned all the grease out of it and have tried freeing the gears myself but to no avail, so we took the brake assembly in to the guy that runs one of the local bike shops here and he said he managed to free the large drive gear but the smaller driven worm gear that's supposed to spin the speedometer cable is just being extremely stubborn and they couldn't get it free. I've ordered pretty much all the missing parts I needed for the bike including a replacement clutch wheel and spare circlip and washer but I'm kind of stuck until I get the gears free and turning. I wanted to try removing the bushing that sits above the worm gear so I could try removing the gear entirely to get it free but I cant get a screwdriver down in there to try and turn it because the tip of the worm gear where the speedo cable slips in pokes through the bushing and prevents anything like that from fitting, I don't think a screwdriver would provide the torque I'd need anyway to break the bushing free. This is the bushing, I was hoping someone here might know where I might be able to buy a tool that would fit into those grooves for taking this out. The service manual for my bike has no information at all on it and neither does the Clymer repair manual I purchased. Any other information that might help me free up this gear would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Funny... I had the same issue (not knowing what tool to use to remove this bushing). Took it to a local shop and the guy assured me it was just a press fit. I told him I didn't think so as the manual states you're supposed to unscrew it. Well, long story longer... he removed the bushing after several days of soaking and heating it. I got my hub cover back with all the pieces removed and he called me later that day to tell me I needed to bring it back because he had a special tool to tighten the bushing. Funny, I thought he said it was a press fit. Anyway, I'll see if I can get ahold of him and find out what kind of tool it is and possible suppliers if you'd like. Another option might be to get a deep well socket and grind it down while leaving four projections (for lack of a better word - it's late here ) to fit in the castellations of the bushing. My attempt didn't work... hence taking it to the shop, but it was worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busyeddie Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 I also have this problem, being lazy I put another plate in the front wheel, but inevitably I will need it fixed for my.other bike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SF119 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Would greatly appreciate it if you could find out from him where to get such a tool, Sacha. Unfortunately we tried cutting down a socket as well, "Make it yourself" seemed to be the only solution I could find anywhere on the Internet because any socket type that looked like it'd work only came in 20mm or larger diameter . But just couldn't get it to fit correctly, I didn't order an extra bushing when I ordered my parts because the shop had my assembly at the time and they had made progress with the large gear so I wasn't sure I'd need it but they couldn't manage to get the other to budge. So the only way to try and make one was to guess and we just couldn't get the points deep enough or in the correct position to fit, it would seem to fit then slip out as soon as we tried to turn it so I gave up on that for now rather then risk stripping the edges. Sure feels frustrating knowing I'm so close to a working Speedometer and this one bushing is standing in my way if I ever get it out I'm going to smother the threads on it with Never-Seez before putting it back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted August 31, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 31, 2013 Time to start asking on ebay ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Locksmith-Schlage-Lock-Lever-Installation-Removal-Tool-For-Leverset-Castle-Nuts-/330993308582?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d10bd13a6#ht_284wt_958 for size reference http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schlage-AL-D-series-lever-Castle-Nut-installation-removal-tool-40-017-/300954021094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461241ece6#ht_311wt_917 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Put the thing in the oven and heat it up to 100 then let it cool down then heat it again keep repeating this untill you can just turn it out the dissimiler metals will heat at a different rate and eventualy break the corrosion ,remember this thing simply screwed in when new. Just a matter of breaking the corrosion EDIT also spray some penetrating oil when hot.it will work it's way in better Re edit don't pick it up by hand when hot or your going to get burnt,sound obivious but who knows what people will do and I don't want you blaming me for getting burnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SF119 Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 Time to start asking on ebay ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Locksmith-Schlage-Lock-Lever-Installation-Removal-Tool-For-Leverset-Castle-Nuts-/330993308582?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d10bd13a6#ht_284wt_958 for size reference http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schlage-AL-D-series-lever-Castle-Nut-installation-removal-tool-40-017-/300954021094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461241ece6#ht_311wt_917 Thanks, they look to be too large though, the one with the quarter must be 19 - 20mm, bushing is only about 13mm. Will look into this some more though when I have more time, been busy dealing with some other things. Appreciate the assistance. Put the thing in the oven and heat it up to 100 then let it cool down then heat it again keep repeating this untill you can just turn it out the dissimiler metals will heat at a different rate and eventualy break the corrosion ,remember this thing simply screwed in when new. Just a matter of breaking the corrosion EDIT also spray some penetrating oil when hot.it will work it's way in better Re edit don't pick it up by hand when hot or your going to get burnt,sound obivious but who knows what people will do and I don't want you blaming me for getting burnt. Will give this a try when I can get back to working on it, Thanks. I'll be sure to wear my oven mitts too . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Just got off the phone with the guy who removed mine and he said he modified a tool that he had for KTM shocks. He was willing to let you use it if you lived around here. sorry man! Might check with a Yamaha shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted September 5, 2013 Moderator Share Posted September 5, 2013 Heat and Plusgas - not wd40.Order a flat length of steel from fleabay, dremil until it fits and then bend the end to give you the leverage you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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