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No tension in clutch lever - WR400F - Advice needed.


alex_xtr
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I recently took off the friction and steel plates to measure wear and re-lube them as they were constantly stuck together leaving constant drive when in gear.

To get to the plates, I only had to drain the oil, take off the outer clutch casing, then the 5 springs. I didn't have to touch the push rod. I also disconnected the clutch lever and cabling.

Anyway, that's the back story - I measured and lubed the plates which were a little dry but fine, put it all back together and re-tightened the springs to factory spec.

After reconnecting the clutch lever and cable, I've found there is no tension or resistance when depressing the clutch lever. Strangely though, the lever by the transmission turns fine when all connected. I've tried adjusting the nuts to change freeplay but with no luck.

I don't know what else to try because there isn't alot else to adjust. Any advice would be much appreciated as my bikes been laid up for too long now!

Cheers,
Alex

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Alex first go to the new members section and intro yourself.

Your problem is fixable and we will help

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Hi, I've posted on the newbie section and introduced myself. I've attached pictures that hopefully better illustrate the problem I'm having.

After inspecting it just now again, I've found the problem is almost definitely that there isn't any tension on the wire coil mechanism.

See item 25 on the picture of the parts.

http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/alex_evans1/media/clutch_zps805ad067.jpg.html

This is how it looks before I took off part 24

http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/alex_evans1/media/photo14_zpse418e5dc.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

And after taking off that bolt I tried winding round the unit 360 degrees to create tension but it would turn further than 180 before locking up but it wouldn't turn all the way so that idea was out the window.

http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/alex_evans1/media/photo17_zpsc13dfdf5.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

After taking out the bolt I could move the whole unit round so I tried putting the hook at the end of the metal coil over the U shaped gap on the left hand side of the above picture, even though I successfully did this, there was still no tension when I moved it back into place and bolted it down.

I'm sure that I'm missing a simple trick here, it shouldn't be this hard!

Thanks for taking the time to read and respond to this

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  • Moderator

right alex, I see you have a photobucket account

well you are posting the wrong links, its a right pain in the bum to be constantly diverted away from a thread to look at a picture!

copy the IMG line from the photobucket and paste it here, that would be far better :thumb:

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Apologies, see pictures below -

Parts picture -

clutch_zps805ad067.jpg

How it looks after I took off part 24 -

photo14_zpse418e5dc.jpg

Disconnected -

photo17_zpsc13dfdf5.jpg

I hope that works better,

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  • Moderator

It all looks assembled correctly to me Alex, however I suspect the spring has been stressed and is now out of kilter, this spring only plays a minor roll though, in reality the operating arm would be forced back into it's resting position as the clutch plate springs extend and engage the clutch. The spring you are concentrating on here will force the arm even further back to it's stop and this is the free play you would have at the handlebar lever (10mm ish)

There was never any way you'd have to have wound that spring a full 360 degrees and I expect your attemps at doing just that has damaged it!

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Just to be clear, I force the spring 360' - I just found its maximum tension point and then let it back to its rest position knowing there was no way it would go 360'. So hopefully I don't think it was enough to damage it.

The only other thing I can think of is whether the push rod and/or the bearings may have worn.

My plan is to get a clutch kit with new plates, springs and a new push rod to have piece of mind and to get it sorted once and for all.

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Sorry for not getting back sooner the spring needs to be on the other side at the bottom as in picture 2all the new parts won't fix it untill you assemble it correctly ,pull the pressuer plate off and rotate it 1 position youve got it on wrong,when installed corectly it is seated against the last plate

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yeah i'm not sure you read and understood what I said last...the clutch springs do the lions share of the work, if theres no pressure at the handlebar lever, and there was before you stiripped down the clutch...then perhaps there is something wrong with how you re-assembled it?

This little spring just 'parks' the operating arm!

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ya air the pressure plate will only fit one way but can go on the wrong way,then it's held out from the plates and the push rod as if the cluth lever was pulled in thats why he has no pressure the plate isnt on the right way. I know from the last time I put my clutch back together I noticed that it only fits properly one way it's a simple fix should take less than 20 min don't bother draining the oil if you've refilled it allready just lay the bike on it's side in the grass.

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Brilliant, thanks for both your advice! I'm going to try this now. I went back into the clutch about half an hour ago and I got a bit carried away and ended up taking out the Push Rod.

I've taken a picture of it here, does this look worn to you or is it ok?

photo20_zps0e77e963.jpg

photo18_zpsa40cbbc4.jpg

photo19_zps9cb3d0e7.jpg

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Wow, just changed my friction plates and springs on my dragstar 650 today and I have exactly the same problem! So I've probably re-installed the pressure plate wrong?

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Yip " the final plate[ presure plate] needs to locate properly, before installing springs, My H2 has a mark on presure plate, and a dot on drum, to line up, check yours, also i pull lever before putting case back on ,to see the plates lifting,,

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HAHAAHA I have seen/heard of this problem so many times but as blackhat said you should check it before you put the cover back on Some clutches need to be adjusted at the pressure plate first before the cable is adjusted not this one but lots of yams have a screw and nut in the centre of the pressure plate that you have to tighten and then back off 1/8 of a turn and lock the nut down to get proper free play

That push rod is fine

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Thanks everyone.

With new found excitement I re-positioned the pressure plate on the bike and began installing the springs. I know the correct tension from the bike manual and so I began tightening the springs in the order it instructs. All was going well until, I was doing 4 whole turns on each spring gradually tightning them up using a torque wrench to monitor the tension. And then one of them snapped. :madflame:

At first I thought it must have been me, but I hadn't been stressing the bolt at all, it was turning so easily before it snapped. Then after chatting to my father who used to be a mechanic, he thinks it wasn't from the stress of being turned too hard but that the bolt was weak and I was really unlucky.

The result is that half a bolt is stuck in the thread running through the clutch boss. The only way to get it out is to drill it out, which is something I've never tried and don't know how to go about it. The other option is to just order a new clutch boss, and replace the 5 bolts that go in the springs for good measure.

Thanks again for all your advice so far

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I was just trying to play it safe, 4 complete turns on each bolt to fasten them evenly. The main thing that I tightened them up using a socket with a screw driver type holder. I turned it until reasonably tight with that and then used the torque wrench which has an extension on it. I was keeping an eye on the tension but the bolt was turning so easily and the torque was still resting on 0 and it snapped out of the blue. There was no warning whatsoever :-/

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Ok your not the first one in the past week to do that,, relax they come out easy.Might even come out with putting your finger on it and give it a turn ,or put your drill in reverse and push hard,they are not held under pressure unless the spring is on.

And as airhead said next time just turn them in untill they stop,they can't come loose the spring pressure will hold them in .

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The rule of thumb is actually one turn each, (screwing in or out). No need for torque measurement malarkey. You just gently screw them in till they stop, and then (again gently) tighten them up a bit. Basically try to remember how much force you had to use to undo them (in the case of these bolts it should be: not much), and try and apply a similar amount when doing them up again. I bet that snapped off bolt comes off with a pair of pliers. Annoying though...

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