anzimazor Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 sadasdasdasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 For the gearbox oil (the picture of the cap) you need motorcycle 4 stroke oil. The number on the side shows how much it takes from empty. Do not over fill it. Do not use car oil. I would use 10/40 semi synthetic - I favour Rock oil Guardian but would also use Mobil which you can get from Halfords. For the 2 stroke I only use Castrol 1 Power Racing - I would drain the old oil out first and bleed the oil pump. Then use new 2 stroke oil and remember to bleed the oil pump again. Keep an eye on the 2 stroke. It gets burnt with the engine running so you need to keep it topped up. Not doing so will damage your engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 asdasdasdasdsa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 For the four stroke I would go for this one LINKY They sell the 2 stroke also. Don't mix them up. Looking at your picture the bike takes 550cc which is just over half of one litre (so a little over half the bottle). You need to drain the old oil out first. To drain the engine oil, take a look under the engine. There should be a drain bolt which you undo and the oil oil should pour out. You will need to capture the oil in a container and dispose of it properly. Do not pour it down the sink or a drain. Once the oil is drained remember to bolt up the drain bolt, not too tight. A plastic funnel also helps to pour the new oil into the hole - once you take the cap in the picture off. Take the cap off before you drain the old oil and it helps the old oil to flow out quicker. The easiest way to drain the 2 stroke oil is to disconect the oil feed pipe from the oil tank and drain this into a container - cap off as above. Same advice as above in oil disposal. Reconnect the oil feed pipe. You then need to expose the oil pump by removing the oil pump cover. This is normally on the right hand side of the bike, follow the oil feed pipe and it will disappear into the engine case somewhere. Take the cover off and the oil pump should be behind it. There will be a small bolt on this which you undo (not a mounting bolt). when you start to fill the 2 stroke tank with 2 stroke oil this should then start to leak from the hole where you have removed the bolt. Once all of the bubbles have gone and the oil is flowing cleanly, replace the bolt and the oil pump cover. Wipe down any spillages as you go. Take some pictures as you go and post them up. Do not mix the oils, they are very different. I hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 To easily post pictures, put them into your photobucket account. Go to the picture and on the left click the "direct" option. Go to the forum and on the top of where you write the post, there is a small square that looks like a picture (it is below and to the left of the smiley yellow face. Click this and a box appears. Paste the link in here - click the box and press the Ctrl button and press the V key at the same time. Close the box and the picture should appear as per the one of yours below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 adsasdasdasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 They often are like that. You have a few options. 1) Do you have an impact driver? You can normally turn them with that with a few taps. 2) Do you have a Dremil type multitool? You can normally cut a slot in them and use a slotted driver to unscrew them. Other that that you can sometimes use a slot driver on the edge or the bolt to tap them in the "undo" direction before using a cross head driver. This needs to be done carefully as hitting a driver against a round surface can lead to it slipping and causing some damage. The engine should not be run without any 2 stroke in it and this is why you need to prime the pump and clear any air. If you take off the oil feed tube that goes to the pump (as shown in you latest picture) and wait for the oil to flow, this will get rid of all of the air before the pump. If you then reconnect this and, with the engine off and the throttle on fully open, kick the bike over quite a few times until the oil is through the pump, this can work. Not really recommended but it does work. If you choose this method it would be good to take the spark plug out before you do it to stop the plug getting covered in fuel. None apart for bleeding it properly is ideal but they all work. I usually fit an allen key bolt in the original bolts place for ease of bleeding in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 asdasdasdasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 that bleed screw (it's not a drain screw) should remove easily enough if you get some mole grips on the side of the screw...not too tight mind...or they will just slip off and bugger up the sides of the screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 that bleed screw (it's not a drain screw) should remove easily enough if you get some mole grips on the side of the screw...not too tight mind...or they will just slip off and bugger up the sides of the screw. Good point Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 asdasdasdasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 asdasdsadasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 ..................Edit: Also how will I know if the new oil is through the pump? Do you recommend a number of kicks? Do you mean just remove the rubber cover the spark plug so theres no connection or actually unscrew it Ha ha, It is not a science. 20 to 30 I would guess. Remove the whole plug. When you get to start the bike, keep the revs low for a while while the engine runs for the oil to get through properly. We all had to start somewhere fella! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted August 13, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 13, 2013 you should still bleed the pump though or you'll have air in it and it may deliver to little oil if you dont do that. and theres a much better way than kicking it, hold the throttle fully open and then push and pull the pump piston many times over, this will simulate the engine running at full belt and more besides or at least hold the throttle fully open (with the sparkplug out) and then do the kicking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 dasdasdasdasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted August 14, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 14, 2013 check the cable, disconnect it at the rev counter and start the engine...is it spinning? if not...withdraw it and see if it's broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 asdasdasdasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 15, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 15, 2013 Happy birthday. As for the rev counter, I'm with Airhead on this. Basically 3 checks; the gearbox, the clock or the cable. Undo the the cable where it connects into the rev counter. When the engine is running, does it spin? If yes, then it is the rev counter itself or, possibly, the cable was not seated properly. If no, Undo the cable where it connects into the gearbox. With the engine running is there something spinning in the hole where the cable connects to? If no then something has broken on the drive in the gearbox. If yes then check the inner cable in the rev counter cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted August 15, 2013 Moderator Share Posted August 15, 2013 Hey happy 21st anzi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzimazor Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 asdasdasdasdasdasd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts