jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Posted July 21, 2013 Hi guys I have previously posted about my bike not starting from the electric switch ( check previous forum for more details ) however I changed the starter and had nothing, tested with multimeter and I had no volt spike. However yesterday me and my uncle had a look, and we put a wire and jumped over the starter and it ticked over fine so that leave switch I believe ? However he continued to test all the cable and it looked fine by what I could gather from facial expressions , however he was then trying to a jump over all the cable, and one of them sparked and when I looked the natural light had gone off and the bike would cut out when side stand was down and in natural. So now the natural switch has gone ?. How is this fixed or checked? Also anyone know where to get a copy of the manual like the haynes one? And does anyone know if their are any other fuses like under the seat or something ? As I only have one on the starter ? Thanks guys jack
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 21, 2013 Moderator Posted July 21, 2013 Sounds like he shorted something testing the starter. Check the fuses first. Check for burnt out wiring next. The neutral switch is just an earth. Copyright law stops the site from giving out links to manuals. You will have a PM in a minute.
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 Do you know if their are any other fuses on the ybr at all ?, so far I have only found 1 on the starter its self, and cannot see it else where. Also would the side stand switch not work say if the bulb was blow ?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 21, 2013 Moderator Posted July 21, 2013 I don't know about the fuses but the side stand switch would still work if the bulb was blown.
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 Their must be more fuses somewhere ? And the natural light isn't coming on at all and when the engine is running and in natural and I put the sidestand down it now kills the engine
Prichard XT Posted July 21, 2013 Posted July 21, 2013 nope I think theres only one and a spare in the back of the starter solenoid holder and neutral is also a kill switch for when the clutch (kill switch) is engaged before starting find where that spark came from or do as I did run it on 30amp fuse that problem connection/wire will will soon start smoking then you will know which one and just trace in a new one ^I don't seriously suggest this^ it was just my lazy way of finding a problem wire but it worked, its just lucky nothing else blew
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 Well the cables that sparked was when he put a cable into a small red cable into the connector and the other end off the cable into a cable that was blue and white. Then it sparked from the red cable. So no fuses are under the seat then ? Also I have a little white relay type box next to the indicator relay, can't work out what that is ?
NE0 Posted July 21, 2013 Posted July 21, 2013 Hi jack Have you tried doing a search.....................on this website!! or going to google and typing in ybr125 circuit diagram and looking at the images (the Diagram will show you how many and where the fuses are) hope this helps
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 21, 2013 Moderator Posted July 21, 2013 The blue/white cable runs from the start switch, to the starter relay to a diode. This is part of the inhibitor system to stop the bike from starting if in gear etc. This is not the way to test the starter - but I guess you know that now.
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 Update time got the electric start working just had to give the button a clean take it all apart and scrape all dirt off, so it now starts however still haven't got a natural working so have to pull clutch in to start and have the sidestand up and have no natural light ?
dt502001 Posted July 21, 2013 Posted July 21, 2013 Follow the link NEO sent you. The power starts from the ing switch to start switch 44 to relay 46 to clutch switch 41 to side stand switch and finnaly gounded to colse the relay and send power to the starter via the other 2 wires connected to the relay. 40 is a one way diode,check this with a mulit meter should only show contiunity in one direction when the test leads are reversed you should get no reading.. if thats good go to next step. So following the path power with a test light you should have power from switch button pressed to relay blue with white power from relay sky blue to clutch switch red/black from clutch switch depressed orange to sidestand switch 39 closed (up) to ground.. So a quick check would be to remove the ground from the stand switch close clutch and sand switch key on and with a mulitmeter set on dc when the b O well you found it but I all ready typed it out so maybey the next person can use this info
NE0 Posted July 21, 2013 Posted July 21, 2013 I assume its the NEUTRAL light.....not the natural...... so naturally you've checked the Neutral bulb to see if its working?............... ie you've not blown it!!!
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 21, 2013 Moderator Posted July 21, 2013 As above - blown bulb. Lots of bikes wont start without pulling the clutch in and they stall if the side stand is down and a gear is engaged.
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 I though the bulb isn't effected, like it don't matter if its blown ?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 21, 2013 Moderator Posted July 21, 2013 The bulb is just a warning light for your safety. I am not sure it would [ass an MOT with the bulb blown but it does not have any effect of the inhibitor switches.
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 Ok so bulb will not be the problem then ?, ok so where does the switch go to or link up too ?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 21, 2013 Moderator Posted July 21, 2013 Lets get back to basics. You have probably blown the neutral light bulb. That needs changing. With the ignition on the bike should start if AT LEAST one of the following is true: 1) the bike is in neutral 2) the clutch is pulled in. If the bike starts with the clutch pulled in I would suggest that either the neutral switch, the neutral switch wiring or the diode that sits in the neutral wire circuit is knackered. The neutral switch is normally down by the front sprocket and the wire is blue. All of the rest of the circuit is blue/white wire. I would change the neutral light bulb and change the neutral diode first.
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 Yeah I think bulb is first on my lists, anyone know how to take to clocks apart to get to the bulb ?, its not like my old bike, and don't have haynes manual yet
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 21, 2013 Moderator Posted July 21, 2013 Yeah I think bulb is first on my lists, anyone know how to take to clocks apart to get to the bulb ?, its not like my old bike, and don't have haynes manual yet If you read my earlier PM to you, you don't need a Haynes manual!
jackm20010 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Posted July 21, 2013 Yeah I took a look at it but its for the 2005 model so it has all the carb system on it
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